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The complete guide to wire crimping, with expert tips
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One of the most common ways to connect electrical wires to connectors or to splice wires together is by crimping. Crimping is easy and involves no soldering. Whether you're joining two pieces of wire or a wire directly to an electrical connector, the quality of the connection depends on how well you crimp the wire. Luckily, with the right tools and a bit of know-how, you'll have your electrical wires connected in no time! This wikiHow article teaches you how to crimp wires, featuring helpful tips from licensed electrician Mantas Silvanavicius.

Easiest Way to Crimp a Wire

Strip ¼ inch of insulation from the wire using a stripping tool. Twist the exposed wire. Insert the wire into the connector until the insulation touches the barrel. Place the barrel of the connector into the crimper slot and squeeze firmly.

Part 1
Part 1 of 3:

Purchasing a Crimper

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  1. 1
    Determine the wire gauge. To get good results, you need to know what size the wire you want to crimp is. Check the wire insulation for an AWG (American Wire Gauge) number. If the gauge is not listed on the insulation, you can strip the tip of the wire and then use a gauging tool to measure the gauge . You will need to use a different tool to measure the gauge of round solid wires and stranded wires. Wire gauges are generally color-coded using the following insulation colors: [1]
    • Red wire insulation is 22 to 16-gauge.
    • Blue wire insulation is 16 to 14-gauge.
    • Yellow wire insulation is 12 to 10-gauge.
  2. 2
    Determine what kind of connector you are crimping. Connectors come in different shapes and sizes for different applications and wire gauges. There are ring connectors, spade connectors, fork connectors, as well as splicing connectors for connecting two wires. The two most important things to consider are whether it’s an insulated connector or a non-insulated connector and what gauge wire it is for.
    • Insulated connectors have insulated tubing that covers the barrel where you insert the wire. For non-insulated connectors, the metal barrel is exposed.
    • Insulated connectors are usually color-coded for the wire gauge the same as the wire insulation. Red is for 16 to 22 gauge wires, blue is for 14 to 16 gauge wires, and yellow is for 10 to 12 gauge wires.
    • Non-insulated connectors usually have the wire gauge marked on the connector itself. However, make sure you do not mistake the wire gauge for the size of the connector. The size of the connector does not determine the size of the wire gauge it uses.
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  3. 3
    Get the right tool for the job. You need to make sure the crimping tool you get is compatible with your wire gauge as well as your connectors. Most crimping tools are designed to work with a variety of wire gauges. However, some crimping tools are designed specifically to work with insulated or non-insulated connectors, while other tools can work with both.
    • Also, consider the job at hand. If you are working in tight spaces, you’ll want something compact and easy to maneuver. If you are working with a large volume of wires, you’ll want something that can crimp quickly.
    • Some crimpers have an integrated stripping tool built in. If the crimper does not have an integrated wire stripper, you will need to purchase a separate stripping tool .
  4. Ratchet crimpers have a built-in ratchet, which means all you have to do is apply moderate pressure to the handles and the crimper will do the rest. These tools also have wider jaws, which helps them cover more connector surface area. [2]
  5. According to Silvanavicius, manual crimpers can give you the same results as a ratchet crimp, but you have to put in more effort. While crimping, you need to take care to align the jaws on the connector as you apply pressure to the handles. Failing to align the jaws can lead to improper crimping. Not only that, but manual crimpers are much more susceptible to wear-and-tear. [3]
  6. The crimping die is the piece at the top of the crimper that the wire and connector go in. Almost all crimpers come with a die. However, it's important to make sure the die is appropriate for your wire gauge, as each piece is designed for a specific range. You’ll also need to use a different crimping die for insulated and uninsulated connectors. [4]
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Part 2
Part 2 of 3:

Stripping Your Wire

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  1. 1
    Place 1 4 inch (0.64 cm) of the end of the wire into the stripping tool. Locate the hole designated for your wire's gauge in the stripping tool. Some crimpers have a stripper built in. If your crimper doesn’t, you’ll need to use a separate stripping tool.
    • For example, if you're crimping a 15-gauge red wire, select the hole designed for a range that covers this gauge range. Make sure that the amount of wire is approximately equal to the metal barrel of the connector, which is usually 1 4 inch (0.64 cm). [5]
  2. 2
    Pull the insulation away to expose the bare wire inside. Apply pressure to the crimper handles to make a cut. Ease up on the pressure and pull the tool away from the wire to rip the insulation off. The exposed wire inside should be the same length as the metal connector barrel. [6]
    • If you're using a manual crimper, hold the jaws of the crimper perpendicular to the wire and continue holding the crimper steadily in this position as you apply pressure to the crimper handles.
    • Place the stripped wire beside the barrel of the connector. Silvanavicius says it should be approximately the same size or up to 1 4 inch (0.64 cm) longer.
    • If done properly, the cut should be clean and straight with no nicks to the exposed wire. The insulation should not be stretched.
  3. Watermark wikiHow to Crimp a Wire
    If it is a braided wire, grip the end of the exposed wire with your thumb and forefinger. Now, twist it either to the left or right to make it firmer and compact. Make the exposed wire isn’t frayed. [7]
    • Always twist the tip of the wire, even if it feels compact—this allows for a more positive connection for the connector.
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Part 3
Part 3 of 3:

Attaching the Connector

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  1. Watermark wikiHow to Crimp a Wire
    Carefully place the exposed portion of the wire into the connector. Continue to do so until the insulation makes contact with the barrel of the connector. [8]
    • The wire insulation should not enter the connector barrel.
    • There should be just a tiny bit of exposed wire sticking out of the barrel on the side with the connector.
    • If you are using insulated connectors, the connector insulation should cover the tip of the wire insulation.
  2. 2
    Place the barrel of the connector into the appropriate crimper slot. Place the connector in the horizontal position with its barrel side facing upward and the flat side facing downward. Now, hold the tool perpendicular to the barrel. For tools with colored markings, match the insulation with the appropriate color on the crimper. If your crimping tool doesn't have colored markings, make sure the gauge markings on the side of the crimper match your wire's gauge. [9]
    • The die is very different for insulated and non-insulated connectors. Check the labeling on the die and use the right section. The die for insulated connectors has a rounded edge. The die for non-insulated connectors has a tooth to create a divot.
    • Do not place the barrel on the edge of the crimper. The barrel should extend a little past the crimp tool so that it creates a bell-mouth opening when it is crimped.
    • Check if the barrel has a seam. If the barrel has a seam, place it in the crimper with the seam facing up (on the opposite side of the tooth in the die). Otherwise, the seam can cause the crimp to fail. Both insulated and non-insulated barrels can have a seam. Better quality connectors do not have a seam. [10]
    • Never crimp your wire with a slot that doesn't match your wire's gauge or use an insulated crimper to crimp a non-insulated connector or vice versa.
  3. 3
    Squeeze the crimper over the barrel with considerable force. Silvanavicius says to hold the tool perpendicular to the connector and over the barrel—closer to the connector than the wire insulation, but not on the edge of the barrel. Hold the crimper steady and squeeze the handles with a considerable amount of force. Don't worry about applying too much pressure—it's nearly impossible to "over crimp." [11]
    • For ratchet crimpers, the crimper slot will align the crimper over the barrel automatically—simply apply pressure to the crimper handles and you're good to go!
    • A good crimp should have the barrel firmly squeezing the wire with a visible divot or trench just behind the edge of the barrel on the side of the connector. The barrel should have a bell-mouth opening on the side of the connector with a tiny bit of exposed wire sticking out. The seam should still be together with no sides of the seam sticking up or separated.
    • Give the wire a firm tug after crimping to make sure the wire is firmly connected.
  4. Watermark wikiHow to Crimp a Wire
    Some connectors come with heat-shrink insulation. If not, you can place heat shrink tubing on the wire before crimping it. Pull the heat shrink over the connector once it is connected and use a heat gun to seal the heat shrink. You can also use a pair of scissors to remove a small piece of electrical tape big enough to cover the crimp terminal. Wrap about two layers of tape over it to help prevent the metal from corroding. [12]
    • Always seal the terminal when your connection is going to be exposed to heat, snow, wind, or rain, or if it is going to be in an open location where people may have access to it.
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      Warnings

      • Never crimp a wire using vices, needle-nose pliers, flat rocks, or hammers. Using one of these tools can create air pockets between the connector and wire, which can cause moisture, corrosion, and breakage.
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