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Everything you need to know, from when to plant garlic to how to harvest it
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If you're in Florida and want to grow garlic, you've chosen a versatile and adaptable plant. Garlic grows well in most climates, including Florida's warm weather with few frosts. With the right garlic variety and growing techniques, your garlic can produce a bountiful harvest in Florida, and we're here to explain everything you need to know to do just that!

Growing Garlic in Florida

Select a partially shaded location in your garden with well-draining nitrogen-rich soil. Dig a small hole and place each clove 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5.1 cm) deep and about 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) apart. Keep the pointy end of the garlic facing upward. Cover with soil and top with mulch, then water daily and harvest after 6 to 8 months.

Part 1
Part 1 of 3:

Planting Garlic

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  1. The difference between soft-neck and hard-neck garlic is that hard-necks have thicker, more brittle skin than the latter. That's because hard-neck thrives in colder climates. In contrast, soft-neck garlic adapts better to Southern climates, requiring less involved care. When growing garlic in Florida, buy a soft-neck variety to give your plant every chance to thrive. [1]
    • Some soft-neck varieties that grow well in Florida include Thermadrone, Lorz Italian, Georgian Crystal, Creole, and Romanian Red garlic plants.
    • You can buy softneck garlic heads at most plant nurseries. Buy 1 clove for every garlic plant you want in your garden, as each will produce a single head.
    • Garlic sold in stores is most likely of the soft-neck variety. They can be planted as long as they're grown locally or organically and not imported. [2]
  2. Because of the warm climate with minimal frost, you can plant your garlic anytime through early winter (November or December). If you plant your garlic during this time, you can expect a harvest around May or June. [3]
    • When planted in the fall, garlic plants stay dormant in the winter but will resume growing in spring. It will form roots but little to no top growth until around February. [4]
    • If you prefer, plant your garlic in February or March for a late summer or autumn harvest. Garlic grown in the South, however, produces fuller harvests when planted in fall. [5]
    • Some hardneck varieties of garlic need to be chilled for 10-12 weeks before planting them in the spring.
    • Softneck varieties of garlic do not need to be chilled and are better suited to warm, humid climates.
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  3. Garlic plants grow best in cooler soil temperatures around 60 °F (16 °C). To keep your soil chilled, find a spot in your garden with shade during the hottest part of the day. [6]
    • Growing garlic in temperatures hotter than 90 °F (32 °C) can stunt your plant's bulb growth, which makes using shade to chill the soil essential.
    • If you can't find a spot with natural shade, purchase a shade cloth to drape over the garlic and protect it from the sun.
  4. Garlic needs soil that drains well and contains organic nutrients to present rot and produce a strong harvest. Opt for a well-draining nitrogen-rich soil mix that contains phosphorus with a pH between 6-8 and mix it into your garden's soil. Top 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5.1 cm) of organic matter over the soil, then mix both thoroughly before planting the garlic. [7]
    • Rock phosphate is a great mineral-based form of phosphorus that is available at many plant stores and nurseries. Bone meal is another great source of phosphorus to add to the soil.
    • To test whether your soil is well-draining, dig a 12 in (30 cm) deep hole in your garden and fill it with water. If the hole takes 5-15 minutes to empty, you've found well-draining soil.
    • If you don't have well-draining soil, add equal parts mulch , well-draining soil mix, or organic matter to the hole and repeat the draining test.
    • If you’re growing your garlic in a pot , fill a container that’s at least 8 in (20 cm) deep with a soil-less potting mix . [8] Ensure the pot has holes for drainage.
  5. Since garlic doesn't produce seeds, planting a single clove in the ground at a depth of 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5.1 cm) is the best way to grow it. One clove will make one bulb. Fill the hole with well-drained soil and sprinkle the soil with water until moist. [9]
    • Separate the cloves just before planting by peeling the outer papery layer of skin and removing the cloves from the bulb's base. Keep the individual wrapper and scab end intact.
    • If you're planting multiple garlic cloves, place them about 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) apart in rows and 9 to 24 inches (23 to 61 cm) between rows. [10]
    • If you're growing garlic cloves in a pot, make the holes 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm) deep and 5 inches (13 cm) inches apart. Place 1 inch (2.5 cm) of potting soil on top. [11]
  6. Cover the soil surrounding your garlic with 5 to 8 inches (13 to 20 cm) of seedless straw or pesticide-free grass clippings. [12] This will keep the soil cool, give your plants extra nutrients, and prevent weeds from growing as your garlic grows. [13]
    • Avoid adding mulch if your soil is damp or you live in a wet, humid climate. Too much moisture in the soil will cause the bulbs to rot.
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Part 2
Part 2 of 3:

Caring for Your Garlic

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  1. Garlic needs about 1 in (2.5 cm) of water a week to thrive in cool or warm temperatures. During summer months with very little rainfall, check your garlic plant's soil several times weekly for dryness. Stick your finger in the soil—if it is dry instead of moist, water it until the soil is damp but not waterlogged. [14]
  2. Garlic needs plenty of nitrogen to produce a strong harvest. From the time the garlic shoots emerge to harvest, give your plants a fish emulsion fertilizer every other week or if your plant develops yellow leaves (a sign of nitrogen deficiency). [15]
    • You can buy fish emulsion fertilizer at many garden centers or nurseries. If you can't find a fish emulsion fertilizer, use another nitrogen-rich fertilizer . [16]
  3. If you're planting a hard-neck garlic variety, it will produce a scape. Scapes are large, curled stalks that grow on the top of garlic plants. Remove the scape with pruners or snap them with your hand. [17] This helps redirect your plant's energy towards growing large, healthy bulbs. [18]
    • Cook with the scape to keep it from going to waste. You can find scape recipes online, from using scape in stir-fry to making a scape salad.
    • Scapes can be stored in the refrigerator for around 3 months and can be used as an alternative to chives or green onions. [19]
  4. Excessive weeds can reduce your plant's yield by over half. To prevent weeds from taking your garlic's nutrients, pull weeds regularly before they get out of hand. Tug them straight up out of the ground by hand, or use a specialized weed removal tool . [20]
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Part 3
Part 3 of 3:

Harvesting Garlic

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  1. In Southern states, garlic should take 6-8 months to mature. When you've reached about 6 months since planting, watch for half of your garlic's leaves to dry and bend towards the ground. [21]
    • If you planted your garlic in the late fall or early winter, expect to harvest in May, June, or July. If you planted in spring, you may need to wait until August, September, or October. [22]
  2. Brush off any loose soil from the roots and trim them with pruning shears until they're at a length of about 6 inches (15 cm). Trimming the roots is essential to prevent the bulb from rotting or molding when you store it. [23]
    • Leave the stalks attached during the harvesting process.
  3. Hang your garlic by their stalks on a ceiling or spread them on a rack in a cool, dark, dry place. Leave them hanging for about 4-6 weeks to dry them out completely and prepare them for storage. Place a rotating fan near the garlic bulbs to dry them out quickly and prevent bulb rot. [24]
    • Garages or garden sheds are ideal for curing garlic. [25]
  4. After you've dried your garlic, remove the stalks and place the bulbs in a refrigerator drawer or on the counter. Whole garlic lasts for 3-6 months when stored at room temperature. [26]
    • Don't put garlic in an airtight container. Moisture can get trapped inside and cause the garlic bulbs to rot.
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Expert Q&A

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  • Question
    Should I trim the leaves of my garlic plant?
    Lauren Kurtz
    Professional Gardener
    Lauren Kurtz is a Naturalist and Horticultural Specialist. Lauren has worked for Aurora, Colorado managing the Water-Wise Garden at Aurora Municipal Center for the Water Conservation Department. She earned a BA in Environmental and Sustainability Studies from Western Michigan University in 2014.
    Professional Gardener
    Expert Answer
    Trimming the leaves can lead to reduced bulb size. Trim leaves early in the season if you are going to trim them. Cutting the leaves will direct the energy into growing new leaves instead of producing larger bulbs.
  • Question
    In one frame, you talk about planting the cloves, and in the very next frame, you say to point the garlic "heads" in an upright orientation. So which is it, cloves or entire heads?
    Community Answer
    Only plant the individual cloves.
  • Question
    Do the bottom leaves normally turn brown and dry? (The plant appears quite healthy otherwise.)
    Community Answer
    Either your harvesting time is near (yippee!) or you have been watering the plant too much or too little (uh-oh). Make sure you're only watering when the soil is dry! You may also need to fertilize your soil, as not doing so can also cause yellowing of leaves.
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      Tips

      • If you had a good harvest, save a few bulbs from your garlic plant to grow next year. [27]
      • Grow garlic in rotation with other crops, and change where you plant it each year to avoid stripping the soil of nutrients.
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      Warnings

      • Some gardeners warn against planting store-bought garlic cloves. They may not be suited for your specific garlic, plus grocery store garlic may be treated with chemicals to boost its shelf life, making it difficult to grow. [28]
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      • Anonymous

        Aug 22, 2017

        "Both timing for planting and specific types that do well in Florida were helps."
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