How to Use a Hair Type Chart: The Ultimate Guide

PDF download Download Article
Stylists explain the uses (and limitations) of the hair type chart
PDF download Download Article

A hair type chart is a way to classify curls. The most common hair type chart was developed by Oprah’s hair stylist Andre Walker in the 1990s. It breaks down hair into 4 types—straight, wavy, curly, and coily—with subtypes based on the hair’s texture or curl pattern. We talked to professional hair stylists to find out everything you need to know about the hair type chart, from what it is to how to use it to care for your hair.

Hair Type Chart, Explained

Celebrity hair stylist Noël Reid-Killings says, “Hair goes from 1A to 4C.” Type 1 hair is straight, Type 2 hair is wavy, Type 3 hair is curly, and Type 4 hair is coily. Types 1 and 2 are broken into subcategories based on the texture of the hair, while Types 3 and 4 are broken down based on curl pattern.

Section 1 of 9:

What is a hair type chart?

PDF download Download Article
  1. 1
    A hair type chart classifies curls from straight to curly. Celebrity hair stylist Noël Reid-Killings explains, “Hair goes from 1A to 4C, with 1 being straight and 4 being the tightest coil. So a lot of times when people refer to their hair, they’ll refer to it as a letter and a number.” [1]
    • Hair type charts are also called curl type charts. They’re useful for helping you identify your curl pattern, which can help you decide how to style your hair. However, other factors may also impact which products work best for you.

    Meet the wikiHow Experts

    Shun Pittman is a Master Cosmetologist and the founder of C’orps d’Elite Salon and Corps d’Elite Beauty.

    Jasmin Todd is a curly hair specialist and the owner and Master Stylist of Austin Curls.

    Bianca Cox is a licensed cosmetologist and hair stylist, owner of The Hair Throne, and co-owner of Bianchi Salon.

  2. 2
    Type 1 hair is straight with little or no bend. It tends to be silky and smooth, but it can look limp or flat, and it may not hold a style very well. This is considered the rarest hair type. The differences in Type 1 hair tend to lie in the thickness of each individual hair strand. [2]
    • 1A: Very thin and stick-straight, often shiny but lacking in volume
    • 1B: Slightly thicker than 1A, with a bit more texture and volume at the roots
    • 1C: Coarser than 1A or 1B with a slight wave, has more volume but is also more likely to look frizzy
    Advertisement
  3. 3
    Type 2 hair is wavy but not curly. Type 2 hair has a very loose curl pattern, more like a soft bend to the hair than traditional curls—although it may be straighter near the roots. It has a lot of volume, and it’s a little more likely to frizz than Type 1 hair, but not as much as Types 3 and 4. [3]
    • 2A: A slight amount of wave and plenty of volume, but heavy products can make the hair look straight
    • 2B: Loose, beachy waves that have a tendency to get a little frizzy
    • 2C: Defined, S-shaped waves that may start closer to the root
  4. 4
    Type 3 hair has loose, bouncy curls. This is what most people picture when they think of curly hair. These curls can range from loose to tight, but no matter where they fall on the chart, they need extra hydration and care to look their best. [4]
    • 3A: Loose spiral curls that don’t shrink much when they’re dry
    • 3B: Tighter S- or C-shaped ringlets shrink about 1–2 in (2.5–5.1 cm) when dry
    • 3C: Tight curls that may be corkscrew-shaped or zigzag
  5. 5
    Type 4 hair has tight, springy curls or zig-zags. Type 4 hair is considered coily. These tight curls shrink up a lot when they’re dry. And the compact curl pattern means it’s harder for natural oils from the scalp to travel down the length of the hair shaft, so this hair type tends to need extra hydration. [5]
    • 4A: Tight, S-shaped coils with a lot of definition
    • 4B: Z-shaped or zigzag curls, bouncy but with a tendency to get dry
    • 4C: Tightly coiled, springy curls that wrap around themselves
    6. Advertisement
Section 2 of 9:

How to Identify Your Hair Type

PDF download Download Article
  1. Compare your curl pattern to the hair type chart to find your hair type. Wash your hair and let it air dry, then pull out a single hair strand and lay it flat on a piece of paper. Compare the shape of the hair strand to what you see on the chart. Whichever letter-and-number combination is closest is your hair type.
    • Keep in mind that you can have multiple curl patterns—the hair along your hairline could be one type, while the hair at your crown could be entirely different.
    • Hairstylist Bianca Cox says, “It can be really hard to determine your own hair type. If you’re not sure, ask your hair stylist to assess your hair type for you.” [6]
Section 3 of 9:

Type 1: Straight Hair

PDF download Download Article
  1. Use volumizing products to add lift and bounce to Type 1 hair. Type 1 hair is sleek, shiny, and straight. But it can also have a tendency to look limp or flat, so your hair care focus should be on adding lift and volume at the roots. Here are our favorite pro tips for caring for Type 1 hair:
    • Moisture is essential: “Be sure your hair isn’t dehydrated. Lack of moisture can lead to static, which can cause your hair to look flat and lifeless,”—Professional Hair Stylist Michelle Bebbington [7]
    • Lift your hair while you dry it: “Apply volumizing spray or mousse while your hair is damp. Then, flip your hair over or use a brush to lift your hair off of your scalp while you’re blowdrying. Hold your hair in that position until it’s completely cool so the style will set.”—Professional hair stylist Sarah Kosakowski [8]
    • Focus on your roots: “Focus your styling products on the first 1–2 in (2.5–5.1 cm) where your hair comes out of your scalp, because that’s where volume lives.”—Master hair stylist Jamie Bushman [9]
    • If your hair looks limp: “Use dry shampoos or volumizing sprays to add texture and lift to your hair while it’s dry”—Professional hair stylist Danielle Chiz [10]
    • Try a razor cut: “If you have straight hair, try having it razor cut for a softer texture on the ends. That can help prevent the blunt edges that you sometimes see on very straight hair.”—Master hairstylist Ambia Elms [11]
    • Don’t be afraid to go short: “Cuts like pixies and bobs are a great way to add volume to thin, fine hair.”—Professional hair stylist Matt King [12]
    2. Advertisement
Section 4 of 9:

Type 2: Wavy Hair

PDF download Download Article
  1. Focus on taming frizz and defining waves on Type 2 hair. Type 2 hair is probably the most common hair type. Wavy hair can look a little poofy or frizzy, especially when it’s dry. To get the most out of your waves, our experts agree that your haircare focus should be on adding moisture and definition to your hair.
    • Apply products while your hair is damp: “Towel dry your hair after you wash it, then use a taming product like a hydrating cream or air dry foam. This will help prevent frizz on wavy hair.”—Cox [13]
    • Use heavier products on thick waves: “To tame very wavy hair, use heavier styling products like creams, gels, serums, and oils. These will help elongate the wave pattern and coat the hair to reduce frizz.”—Master cosmetologist Shun Pittman [14]
    • To style your waves without heat: “Bring out your waves without heat by wrapping your hair around sponge rollers while it’s damp, then allowing it to air dry. Either roll the hair horizontally for a classic wave or vertically for a ringlet wave.”—Elms [15]
    • Try a professional keratin treatment: “A keratin treatment can be a great solution for taming frizz on wavy hair. It makes air drying easier and heat styling more efficient, and it will make your hair look shinier and healthier looking.”—Professional hair stylist Patrick Evan [16]
    • Go with a longer cut: “If you have wavy hair, choose a longer haircut that will help pull your hair down. Shorter and medium-length layers tend to pop up and look thicker.”—Professional hair stylist Arthur Sebastian [17]
    • Avoid razor cuts and thinning shears: “Find a cut that works with your natural texture. Trying to thin it out with razors or thinning shears can actually add volume and make waves look more frizzy.”—Professional hair stylist April Ferri [18]
Section 5 of 9:

Type 3: Curly Hair

PDF download Download Article
  1. Prioritize hydration and curl definition for Type 3 hair. This hair type features loose, bouncy curls with tons of volume. But curly hair has a tendency to get dry, and your curls may need a little styling to keep their definition. Here are our favorite curly-hair tips:
    • Avoid combing or brushing your hair more than you need to: “With curly hair, separation means frizz. The only things you should use to detangle your curls are your fingers and a wide-toothed comb, preferably in the shower.”—Professional hair stylist Michael Van den Abbeel [19]
    • Use humidity-blocking products: “Use shampoos and conditioners that help block humidity to fight frizz. Also, products with protein will help restore your curl structure.”—Curly hair specialist Jasmin Todd [20]
    • Avoid products that contain alcohol: “To enhance your natural curls, use lotion-like moisturizing creams for your hair. Avoid products with alcohol, which will dry out your hair.”—Cox [21]
    • Try curling cream: “If you have curly hair and it’s frizzy, you need to hydrate those curls to help smooth them out. I prefer curling cream—it gives bounce without creating crispy, dry curls.”—Hair stylist Martin Nepton [22]
    • Embrace your curls: “Get your hair cut in a style that’s complementary to the volume of your hair. Embracing your curls will make it easier for you to style your hair yourself.”—Sebastian [23]
    • Go to a curl specialist: “If you want to make your curly hair feel less bulky, get a haircut from a stylist who’s experienced and skilled in cutting curls.”—Master hair stylist Nick Arrojo [24]
    2. Advertisement
Section 6 of 9:

Type 4: Coily Hair

PDF download Download Article
  1. Focus on gentle care and nourishing products if you have 4C hair. Type 4C hair—also known as textured hair—is tightly curled. This hair type features lots of volume, but it can have a tendency to get dry, so your hair care focus should be on adding lots of moisture and finding the routine that works best for you.
    • Limit how often you brush or comb: “The only time you should comb curly hair is to untangle knots. Too much combing or brushing will cause frizz.”—Arrojo [25]
    • Moisturize before detangling: “If you have a tight coil texture, add a lubricant to your hair before you comb it. Also, start combing from the ends and work your way up to the root.”—Hair stylist Kemi Hill [26]
    • Skip the shampoo (sometimes): “If you have highly textured hair, try using a cleansing conditioner to replace your shampoo once in a while. This will help keep some of the natural oils in your hair.”—Van den Abbeel [27]
    • Try a protective twist and curl: “Twist and curl styles protect the hair and are low maintenance. Section your hair and apply a moisturizing product, then separate each section into two strands and twist the sections together.”—Hair augmentation specialist Nikia Londy [28]
    • Coil your hair for more defined curls: “Coiling your hair is a simple way to get gorgeous curls that will last for days. Apply a curl-enhancing product, then coil 1 in (2.5 cm) sections of hair from the roots to the tips.”—Londy [29]
    • Protect your hair at night: “To protect your natural hair and avoid breakage, wear it in braids or wrap it up with a scarf when you’re going to bed.”—Natural hair stylist Ndeye Anta Niang [30]
Section 7 of 9:

Usefulness of Hair Type Charts

PDF download Download Article
  1. Understanding your curl type can help you choose the right hair products. Pin-straight hair likely needs entirely different haircare than curly or coily hair. Curly hair specialist Jasmin Todd says, “The hair classification type exists to help you determine what your curl type is. That information will help you navigate the products and regimen that work best for your curls.” [31]
    • Some people appreciate that the hair type chart helped introduce a more inclusive attitude to all hair types, including tight coils that may have been previously ignored.
    • Knowing (and embracing) your hair type can help you have realistic expectations for your hair. If you have a tight curl pattern or loose waves, for instance, it might be hard to style your hair into ringlet curls.
    2. Advertisement
Section 8 of 9:

Limitations of Hair Type Charts

PDF download Download Article
  1. The standard hair type chart may not cover every type of curl. Todd says, “No curl is the same—every head of curls is as unique as a fingerprint.” [32] Your curls may not perfectly fit into one of these predefined categories, and that’s okay. This isn’t meant to be a comprehensive list of every possible hair type. It’s more of a starting point than the final word.
    • Some people feel that the hair type chart reinforces that certain curl types are more desirable than others.
    • Curls can look very different, even within the same hair type. If you have Type 3B hair, you may find that your curls behave totally differently than someone else who also identifies as Type 3B.
    • Additionally, the hair type chart doesn’t factor in characteristics like the density, thickness, or porosity of your hair, or any environmental and lifestyle factors that may be impacting your hair health. These may be a better indicator of the types of products that will work best on your hair.
Section 9 of 9:

Other Factors Impacting Hair Type

PDF download Download Article
  1. 1
    Texture The texture of your hair refers to the diameter of a single strand. Pittman says, “There are only three hair textures: fine, medium, and coarse. The texture is based on the thickness of the hair itself.” [33]
    • If you rub a strand of hair between your fingertips and you can barely tell it’s there, you may have fine hair . Fine hair tends to tangle easily and may not hold a style well. [34]
    • If you rub a strand between your fingers and can feel it, but it doesn’t feel coarse, you probably have medium hair . Avoid heavy products that can weigh down your hair, and prioritize products that will help tame frizz.
    • If you rub a strand between your fingers and it feels thick, like a piece of thread, you may have coarse hair . Coarse hair can tend to get dry, so prioritize gentle shampoos (or skip shampoo altogether) and rich conditioners or hair oils.
  2. 2
    Density “The density of your hair refers to how much hair you have per square inch,” says Pittman. “You can have coarse textured hair but not have much hair per square inch, so it looks fine, or you can have fine textured hair but have a lot of it, so it looks thick.” [35]
  3. 3
    Porosity “Your hair’s porosity is how well it absorbs and retains moisture,” says Todd. Knowing your porosity will help you choose the right products to keep your curls in balance.” To determine the porosity of your hair , drop one strand of your clean, dry hair into a glass of water and watch what it does.
    • If your hair floats: It has low porosity, so it doesn’t absorb moisture well. You may need to use thick products that can soak into your hair slowly.
    • If your hair sinks slowly: It has medium porosity. You probably only need a moderate amount of hydration to keep your hair moisturized.
    • If your hair sinks quickly: It has high porosity, so it will soak up products quickly. You may need to use a lot of product, but your hair will absorb it well.
  4. 4
    Environment and Lifestyle Your hair’s natural qualities can be impacted—or even changed entirely—by environmental factors. Things like nutrition, dry or humid air, the quality of your water, and chemical processing can all affect the health of your hair. If you’re on a journey to hair health, it’s important to take these into consideration.
    5. Advertisement

Expert Q&A

Ask a Question
200 characters left
Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered.
Submit
      Advertisement

      Video

      Tips

      Submit a Tip
      All tip submissions are carefully reviewed before being published
      Name
      Please provide your name and last initial
      Submit
      Thanks for submitting a tip for review!

      You Might Also Like

      21 Wolf Cuts For Men, Plus Styling Tips
      How to
      Wrap Your Hair in a Towel
      Fade Hairstyle Types for Men: A Complete Guide
      What it Means if You’re Dreaming About a Haircut
      How to
      Remove Black Hair Dye Without Damaging Your Hair
      How to
      Make Hair Wraps
      How to
      Remove Deep Ingrown Hairs
      What is a Happy Trail? (Plus, Where the Name Came From)
      Is Salt Water Beneficial for Hair?
      How to
      Build the Perfect Hair Care Routine
      How to
      Increase Chest Hair
      How to
      Get Rid of Frizzy Hair Naturally
      5 Signs of a Receding Hairline & How to Reverse It
      What Having a Widow’s Peak Means (and What to Do if You Have One)
      Advertisement

      References

      1. ↑ Noël Reid-Killings. Celebrity Hair Stylist. Expert Interview
      2. ↑ https://erdemhospital.com/blog/type-1-hair-1a-1b-1c-texture-care-and-curly-hair-potential/
      3. ↑ https://www.glamour.com/story/curly-hair-curl-type-chart
      4. ↑ https://www.glamour.com/story/curly-hair-curl-type-chart
      5. ↑ https://www.glamour.com/story/curly-hair-curl-type-chart
      6. ↑ Bianca Cox. Professional Hair Stylist. Expert Interview
      7. ↑ Michelle Bebbington. Professional Hair Stylist. Expert Interview
      8. ↑ Sarah Kosakowski. Professional Hair Stylist. Expert Interview
      9. ↑ Jamie Bushman. Master Hair Stylist. Expert Interview
      1. ↑ Danielle Chiz. Professional Hair Stylist. Expert Interview
      2. ↑ Ambia Elms. Master Hairstylist. Expert Interview
      3. ↑ Matt King. Professional Hair Stylist. Expert Interview
      4. ↑ Bianca Cox. Professional Hair Stylist. Expert Interview
      5. ↑ Shun Pittman. Master Cosmetologist, Global Salon Educator & Author. Expert Interview
      6. ↑ Ambia Elms. Master Hairstylist. Expert Interview
      7. ↑ Patrick Evan. Professional Hair Stylist. Expert Interview
      8. ↑ Arthur Sebastian. Professional Hair Stylist. Expert Interview
      9. ↑ April Ferri. Professional Hair Stylist. Expert Interview
      10. ↑ Michael Van den Abbeel. Professional Hair Stylist. Expert Interview
      11. ↑ Jasmin Todd. Master Hair Stylist. Expert Interview
      12. ↑ Bianca Cox. Professional Hair Stylist. Expert Interview
      13. ↑ Martin Nepton. Professional Hair Stylist. Expert Interview
      14. ↑ Arthur Sebastian. Professional Hair Stylist. Expert Interview
      15. ↑ Nick Arrojo. Master Hair Stylist. Expert Interview
      16. ↑ Nick Arrojo. Master Hair Stylist. Expert Interview
      17. ↑ Kemi Hill. Hair Stylist. Expert Interview
      18. ↑ Michael Van den Abbeel. Professional Hair Stylist. Expert Interview
      19. ↑ Nikia Londy. Hair Augmentation Specialist. Expert Interview
      20. ↑ Nikia Londy. Hair Augmentation Specialist. Expert Interview
      21. ↑ Ndeye Anta Niang. Hair Stylist & Master Braider. Expert Interview
      22. ↑ Jasmin Todd. Curly Hair Specialist. Expert Interview
      23. ↑ Jasmin Todd. Curly Hair Specialist. Expert Interview
      24. ↑ Shun Pittman. Master Cosmetologist, Global Salon Educator & Author. Expert Interview
      25. ↑ https://www.rehairducation.com/the-challenges-of-fine-hair-and-tips-for-caring-for-it/
      26. ↑ Shun Pittman. Master Cosmetologist, Global Salon Educator & Author. Expert Interview
      27. ↑ Shun Pittman. Master Cosmetologist, Global Salon Educator & Author. Expert Interview

      About This Article

      Did this article help you?

      Advertisement