Q&A for How to Choose Developer for Hair Color

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  • Question
    How much developer do I mix with hair dye?
    Laura Martin
    Licensed Cosmetologist
    Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist in Georgia. She has been a hair stylist since 2007 and a cosmetology teacher since 2013.
    Licensed Cosmetologist
    Expert Answer
    This depends on the type of color and the brand. For most permanent colors, you mix color and developer in a ratio of 1:1.
  • Question
    What is the best developer to use with bleach?
    Laura Martin
    Licensed Cosmetologist
    Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist in Georgia. She has been a hair stylist since 2007 and a cosmetology teacher since 2013.
    Licensed Cosmetologist
    Expert Answer
    You should use the same brand as the bleach for the best consistency. It's also a good idea to use a low-volume developer, such as 10 or 20, for the least brassy shade and to minimize damage.
  • Question
    What volume developer should I use to lighten my hair?
    Laura Martin
    Licensed Cosmetologist
    Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist in Georgia. She has been a hair stylist since 2007 and a cosmetology teacher since 2013.
    Licensed Cosmetologist
    Expert Answer
    If you are mixing it with permanent color, you'll need to use 30 (for 1 level of lift) or 40 (for 2-3 levels of lift). If you are mixing it with bleach, any volume will lighten your hair.
  • Question
    How long do you leave 20-volume developer on?
    Laura Martin
    Licensed Cosmetologist
    Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist in Georgia. She has been a hair stylist since 2007 and a cosmetology teacher since 2013.
    Licensed Cosmetologist
    Expert Answer
    If you have mixed it with permanent color, the processing time is usually 30 minutes. If you are lightening the hair or covering gray, it may take 45 minutes or more.
  • Question
    Can you go from black to platinum blonde in one day?
    Karen Leight
    Professional Hair Stylist
    Karen Leight is a Professional Hair Stylist and the Owner of Karen Renee Hair, a private salon suite inside the Salon Republic Hollywood in Los Angeles, California. With over 12 years of experience, Karen is a licensed cosmetologist specializing in hair color, balayage technique, and women’s and men’s precision haircuts.
    Professional Hair Stylist
    Expert Answer
    Not really. The process should be slow and you have to understand that some people simply can't achieve a platinum blonde. Talk to a professional and ask they to guide you through the process and through what is achievable for your specific hair.
  • Question
    Can you get your hair bleached in one day?
    Karen Leight
    Professional Hair Stylist
    Karen Leight is a Professional Hair Stylist and the Owner of Karen Renee Hair, a private salon suite inside the Salon Republic Hollywood in Los Angeles, California. With over 12 years of experience, Karen is a licensed cosmetologist specializing in hair color, balayage technique, and women’s and men’s precision haircuts.
    Professional Hair Stylist
    Expert Answer
    Technically, you can, but I don't recommend it. If you have dark hair and want to keep it healthy, you should bleach it with a professional gradually, over the course of a few days or weeks.
  • Question
    How do I choose the right hair color developer?
    wikiHow Staff Editor
    Staff Answer
    This answer was written by one of our trained team of researchers who validated it for accuracy and comprehensiveness.
    wikiHow Staff Editor
    Staff Answer
    Before you choose your developer, think about what color you are and what color you want to be. For instance, a volume 10 developer has minimal lift and is perfect for depositing a color close to your own. Volume 20 is good for covering gray hairs. Volume 30 can change you from a sandy blonde to a bright blonde, but not from dark brunette to platinum blonde. Each increment of 10 will change the level of your hair one level.
  • Question
    If I use a 30 developer and bright red henna, how will it turn out?
    MrCrowe
    Community Answer
    Henna is an herbal hair dye, and it cannot always be determined what the end result of dyeing your hair will be. Please, keep in mind that trying to highlight henna with chemicals may leave your hair greenish or may not even work at all. Pure henna should be put on bare hair - no oils, conditioner, no mixing with developer, etc. It would be better if you tried bleaching your hair first and dyeing your hair a certain color two weeks after the first process. It would minimize the risk of ending up with slightly green hair, and for sure the color's gonna be more vivid.
  • Question
    Can I leave my hair color on too long?
    Batty_babi_
    Community Answer
    It depends on the type of hair dye. Manic Panic, Arctic Fox, and Ion, along with other demi/semi-permanent dyes can stay on quite awhile. However, leaving it on for extended periods typically has little to no effect. If the dye has bleach, do not leave it on for longer than recommended or it can damage your hair and scalp.
  • Question
    My hair is black, and I want to dye some sections hot pink. Will it work with a 20 volume developer mixed with hair dye?
    GeGeGeLL
    Community Answer
    If your hair is darker, you might want to use 30 or 40 volume developer. The hot pink will not take very well to your hair if it hasn't been bleached much lighter beforehand. Be cautious, the stronger the developer, the more likely it is that your hair will have some damage.
  • Question
    I want to dye my medium brown hair jet black. I am about 15-20% gray. What level developer should I use?
    Sportacus from Lazytown
    Community Answer
    20.Vol is always a good start as it isn't too high to completely fry your hair.
  • Question
    How much developer should I use? I have two boxes of L’Oréal.
    Savannah Vold
    Community Answer
    Check your box dye for specific instructions on the proper dye-to-developer ratio. Typically, most developer-to-dye ratios are 1 part hair color to 2 parts developer. Still, you should always refer to your box dye's instructions to ensure your hair turns out how you want it to.
  • Question
    Can you use developer on its own?
    Savannah Vold
    Community Answer
    Hair developer is designed to be used with other hair products such as toner, dye, and bleach. Using a developer alone could lead to a patchy, uneven finish in a color you weren't expecting.
  • Question
    I have been trying to let my gray grow- my hair is dirty blonde. I want to dye my roots and my the dye is 4 dark brown. Should I use 20 or 30 developer? I do not want this brown to be dark.
    Savannah Vold
    Community Answer
    A volume 20 hair developer is the best option for covering and blending greys. Using a developer over volume 20 will lift the color from all the surrounding hairs, exposing and emphasizing the gray rather than covering it.
  • Question
    I have brownish black color. What should I do to get light golden color on them?
    WawaWawa
    Community Answer
    To lighten brownish-black hair to a light golden color, you will need to use a hair color product with bleach or peroxide. This will typically involve using a hair color product with a developer that has a higher volume (e.g. 40 volume). Before using the product, perform a patch test and follow the instructions carefully. To minimize the risk of damage, use a product formulated for color-treated hair and follow up with a deep conditioning treatment. It is also recommended to speak with a professional for personalized recommendations.
  • Question
    New grey hair following chemo. What developer to use? Want to go mid brown, hair is thick and previously struggled to cover regrowth
    WawaWawa
    Community Answer
    After chemotherapy, it is important to wait until your hair has fully grown back before coloring it, as the hair may be weaker and more prone to breakage. Once your hair has grown back, it is generally safe to color your hair. However, you may want to consider using a hair color product that is specifically formulated for use on chemically treated hair, as these products are often more gentle and less likely to cause irritation or damage.
  • Question
    Do they make a very sensitive hair developer?
    WawaWawa
    Community Answer
    Yes, there are developers that are specifically formulated for use on sensitive scalps. These developers are typically labeled as "sensitive scalp" or "gentle formula" and are formulated with lower levels of peroxide to minimize the risk of irritation. If you have a sensitive scalp or are concerned about the potential for irritation, it is important to choose a developer that is specifically designed for use on sensitive scalps. You should also follow the instructions for use carefully and do a patch test before applying the developer to your entire head to make sure that you do not have an adverse reaction.
  • Question
    Can I use creme and lotion developer together?
    WawaWawa
    Community Answer
    It is generally not recommended to mix creme developer and lotion developer together as they are designed to be used with different types of hair color products. Creme developer is typically used with permanent hair color, while lotion developer is used with semi-permanent hair color. Mixing the two types of developer can result in an uneven or unpredictable color result. It is best to use the developer that is specifically formulated to be used with the type of hair color you are using.
  • Question
    When I bleach my hair next time, is there a trick so my hair doesn’t turn out different shades of blonde? Currently it’s gold/yellow right now and hoping to get it all to a pale yellow/ white next!
    Sportacus from Lazytown
    Community Answer
    Trick to bleaching a whole head of hair: Start at the back of your head and your your way to the front as it isn't as warm as the rest and therefore needs more time to develop. Also, do your roots last, with about 15 minutes to go as the heat of your head will bleach those portions the fastest. To get the most even results don´t be shy with the bleach and try to thoroughly saturate each strand. To achieve a white hair color you can´t only use bleach. Bleach your hair until it becomes a bright/pale yellow and use a toner of your choice. Highly recommend the Wella toners.
  • Question
    I have fine hair and I have been using medium brown hair dye with level 10 developer but just lately it doesn't seem to be covering the greys as well, should I move up to a stronger developer?
    Community Answer
    Try using a level 20 developer, but with dark hair dye, never go stronger than 20 because it will lighten your hair.
  • Question
    Can I use half the color tube and use the rest later for another coloring session?
    Community Answer
    Yes, just make sure you put the lid on tightly. With the developer, you need to put the lid on it as soon as you’re done with it or it will loose its strength.
  • Question
    How do I fill 1:1 in the bottle? I suck at math.
    Community Answer
    It would be, for example, 1 ounce of color and 1 ounce of developer. When it says 1:1, it means you use equal parts of color and equal parts of developer.
  • Question
    What would chemically change when adding developer to directions? I do not care about the colour but would it turn into an oxidising dye?
    Sportacus from Lazytown
    Community Answer
    No it wouldn't. If you would like to dilute your dye to achieve a lighter colour, you could just add any conditioner of your choice.
  • Question
    I have grey roots and bought Schwarzkopf 7-55 + 20% developer. Should the ratio be 1:1 or 1:2? Package says 1:1, friend says 1:2?
    Smat_A_Lot
    Community Answer
    Whenever you have a hair dye the ratio should be equally half and half (1:1). If you want a different lighter version of the color you can go 1:2 (but I personally would not recommend this).
  • Question
    Is there a hair dye that does not use peroxide?
    Sportacus from Lazytown
    Community Answer
    There are many alternatives to traditionally damaging hair colors, such as demi or semi permanent ones. Look for a dye brand that produces semi permanent hair colors of all shades. For example, Overtone is basically a conditioner with pigment that doesn't only colour your hair but also keeps it glossy and well nourished.
  • Question
    Is developer just to lighten the hair?
    Sportacus from Lazytown
    Community Answer
    Developer makes any dye you use oxidize on your hair and penetrate each strand to permanently change your hair colour.
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