Q&A for How to Grow Freshwater Aquarium Plants

Don't let your alkalinity go too low, as it fluctuates at night. I recommend people set up an aerator on a reverse timer so that at night you're providing additional gas exchange. For people that have the means, setting your CO2 injection up on a CO2 monitor, which would prevent the pH fluctuating into that negative 7 range or negative 6.5, will also help.

I would focus on CO2 levels and light rather than nutrients. Nutrients are really a secondary issue compared to monitoring the CO2 levels in the tank, which is specifically defined as the ratio of the pH and the carbonate hardness. In a literal sense, CO2 concentration, water, carbonate hardness or alkalinity, and pH are mathematically linked. You can't change one without changing the others, so you definitely want to monitor all of that.

Common aquatic plants include grasses, anubias, melon sword, argentine sword, java fern, water lily, primrose, water onion, cryptocorne. Many go by forgettable Latin names. Floating plants like duckweed and water cabbage provide variety at the top. Some need CO2 added to the water, but all of these listed are easy care.

Herbivores and fish who dig in the substrate can challenge your plants. Cichlids who scoot sand around can uproot your plants. Planters help prevent this. Nippy herbivores like gouramis will pinch leaves but not devastate your plants. The more plants you have, the more evenly distributed your fish nipping.

See "Things You'll Need". It says that pumps can be beneficial, but aren't necessary. "Pumps" are synonymous with filters in this case.

Most plants survive on the nutrients from fish waste, but adding a plant nutrient can help picky plants thrive. See your fish store associate for detailed plant care.

Not required. Sometimes plants come in a disposable container. If your plants float around, a container or fishing line can anchor them. Containers also keep grasses and self propagating plants from spreading. If you have aquarium pots, they can add elevation and be a nice accent. If you use containers, give the roots room to grow. Two to three inch clay pots work well. Boil containers first to remove contaminants.

It is best to have the plants in a mineral rich substrate, something you want to set up before adding water and the plants. But as long as you have either a fertilizer liquid or tablet to help start them off, you should be fine.

Gravel is best for allowing roots to grow and facilitating oxygen. Sand is perfectly fine, but gravel is better in my experience.

It's fine to let it grow out.

Noon, as the plants will use the sunlight and carbon dioxide fairly quickly.

See a fish store associate for tailored advice on the interactions between your fish and plants. The leaves can yellow and drop if nutrient levels are off balance. Algae can block the light from the leaves. There's not a high risk of parasites. Sometimes the roots can rot. Plants are resilient and flourish with proper light and nutrients. Your fish might nip at them, but otherwise, not many plant diseases!

If your aquarium is new, you can plant your aquarium plants during setup. Make sure your water and light condition is good. You can use CO2 and fertilizer.

Bettas have personalities all their own, so give it some time and try again. Secondly, you can use ordinary supplies like ping pong balls and mirrors (never keep these in too long) to interest your betta.

None. You need special aquatic plants. Normal ones will rot and contaminate the water.

In the nitrogen cycle, nitrate naturally converts to nitrite which plants can consume. If you already have fish in your tank and need to reduce nitrates ASAP, then perform a small water change 10-20% and test the water. Do this each day until your levels are safe. If you mean how do you buy it without nitrate included, your store should carry a basic nutrient like Flourish with and without carbon dioxide.

You should first check local laws on removing plants from public property. Plants from a brook may have snails that are too tiny to see, and you could end up with an overpopulation of snails. They may also introduce diseases or toxins to your tank. Be careful - quarantine the plants for at least a week before adding them to an established aquarium.

Fish should not be kept in "small" pots for more than a few hours. Use a tank or large fish bowl (minimum of 25 liters = spherical bowl 36cm diameter). Without a filter or air pump oxygen can only enter through the water's surface. A lid will also block lots of air getting in. My advice: always bubble air into a bowl, especially if you don't filter. To remove waste, you can use a siphoning tube to "vacuum-clean" waste from the base of your tank or bowl. Only change a third of the water at most, approximately once every 2 weeks. It's extremely important that you let tap water stand for 48 hours and "swish" it lots by hand as often as you can before using it. This helps get chlorine out.

72-78 degrees.

It depends what kind of fish you are keeping. Some fish generally enjoy feasting on algae while others may not be healthy with it around.

They do not need traditional soil. Many people use white sand and aquarium gravel as the sand gives the roots something to hold onto. You can also add a fertilizer liquid to your aquarium for the plants.

Most snails sold as aquatic pets will not harm your plants and can be kept with them. The smaller snails that usually hitchhike on plants do, but the mystery or apple snails sold at pet stores will not.

Take them out of the pots.

You can put directly into the substrate.

It sounds like black hair algae, which is hard to get rid of.

Stones will work well enough, and you can get pellets or tablets that can be pushed into the gravel to give a slow release of nutrients for your plants. I like to use fine peat as a soil, but it has to be buried under an inch or more of gravel. Beware though: this should be pure peat, not one enriched with added nutrients. It will make the water slightly red in color, but it's a nice effect and you get some beautiful plant growth.

This is just a film of brownish algae growing. It's not harmful, but if you want to get rid of it you can either gently scrub it off or use a 1:10 water/bleach solution, being very careful to thoroughly rinse the plants before replacing. If you have delicate plants, it may be best to leave them.

Is your tank currently cycling? It could be the beginning of the nitrogen cycle.

Any size will work.

It could be the water perimeters, lighting, or temperature. You may also need to find some aquarium plant food.