Q&A for How to Grow Tomatoes from Seeds

Make a mix of water (1 cup), white vinegar (1/3 cup) and a little bit of biodegradable dish soap (1/2 teaspoon). Spray the affected areas (under the leaves normally or around the joints), repeating this for a couple of days, always after watering the plant. You can also squish by hand if you're not squeamish.

Your plants have become "leggy." This happens when they are getting too little light. They use their energy in growing tall, in the hope that light will be available higher. It's their last-ditch way of surviving.

A mixture of peat moss, vermiculite, and compost (ie. cardboard, coffee grounds). There is no need to use a fertilizer in the soil for seeds because the seed does not need the extra nutrients and too much fertilizer could even harm the young plant and kill it after roots have formed.

You can look it up online for your area. You could also make an educated guess from last year, if you remember clearly enough.

If you keep them in a dry and cool place, they can be valid and grow out even after three years, sometimes longer. Seeds sometimes keep even longer and even though not all seed grow out, you may manage to get plants even after 5 years. The only thing is you need to plan for some seeds not sprouting anymore, so when you need 2 plants, start off with maybe 6 to 8 seeds, then choose the strongest seedlings to continue.

I have one Robeson plant that has survived two years now, by bringing it inside and keeping it dormant during the winter months. I am going for three years, but I'm not as optimistic about next year's harvest. I recommend clipping it as much as it will handle and making sure the root is buried deep into a large pot, as it can quickly get so spread out it will start breaking its own branches.

Put only 3 to 4 peed, then use scissors to cut off the weaker shoots once they sprout.

A lack of light is most often the cause of thin, weak plants. In order to make them sturdier, you should take them outside (if temperatures allow) to harden them. If necessary, you can take them back inside at night when temperatures drop. Plant the tomatoes with support of a bamboo stick or something, as soon as the weather allows you to (when there is no frost or very low temperatures).

Personally, I cut the lowermost leaves to allow sunlight to hit the roots of my plant, but I don't prune too much within the plant itself to avoid exposing the tomatoes to constant direct sunlight.

The best way to ensure that the tomato plant builds good roots is by planting the small tomato plant deep. Plant it down to just shortly above the first leaves. That means, a good part of the stem that was in there when the plant grew from the seedling is now in the earth.

Is it indoors? If so, place it outside once the weather is warm enough. Tomato plants need to be pollinated to produce fruit. Try planting native wildflowers to attract pollinators or try pollinating the plants yourself with the head of an electric toothbrush.

Yes, although you might have fewer plants.

Pick them off and crush them. The mixture suggested for aphids will help reduce the number of other insects you get, too.

I would say to plant tomatoes in the late spring.

It could be disease, a virus, watering inconsistency, soil contaminants (if you're not using sterilized potting soil). Also, examine the plants closely for signs of pests.

If your first frost is later, then you can. Most of the time though, buying starter plants from nurseries are a better bet.

Those tomatoes are the best because the seeds are already ready to be planted and it won't take that long to germinate.

For a lot of gardeners this year, there was a delay in plant growth and production. This is because of abnormal weather conditions that delayed tomato plants' growth. You could try ripening dark green tomatoes indoors.

Continue to water and fertilize your plants. They may not yield tomatoes in their first year, but if you take care of them properly, you should see the fruits next year.

It depends on how cold it got. If it was less than 50° F your plants are basically ruined. You can try to save them by placing them in a warm area with lots of airflow, watering them with a soluble fertilizer solution that is not strong, and waiting.

When plants are under two feet, but above three inches, use nitrogen fertilizers, like bat guano or conventional "all purpose" fertilizer to promote more leaves. When plants start flowering, apply higher phosphorus fertilizer such as "garden tone" or other tomato fertilizers. Bone meal, although it has a lot of phosphorus, contains mostly insoluble phosphorus that might take a year to break down.

There are a few thing that could cause this: In hot summer weather, the plants will sometimes close pores on the bottom of the leaves to save moisture. If this is the case, they will uncurl when it becomes cooler in the evening. This isn't that big of an issue. Sometimes, insects will cause the leaves to curl. If this is so, it will probably only be on one or two leaves (simply remove affected leaves.) There are tomato viruses that cause leaves to curl. If this is so, all the leaves will curl and eventually die. Remove the plant and DON'T compost or plant any more tomatoes in that spot for a few years. Look for disease resistant varieties if this is a major problem in your area.

Yes, but if you want a tomato type like the one that you are using now, you need to use an heirloom tomato type that is open pollinated. (Make sure to either ferment the seeds or dry them.)

A diluted solution of Epsom salt and water provides important trace minerals and other nutrients that might benefit your tomato plant.

It depends on the type of seeds you're using for your tomatoes, so you may have to look it up online with more specific information.

No, you don't. You only need to pinch out the growths that start on the interior (or armpit) of the main tomato stalk. They are very small, leafy growths that can stunt the growth of the plant.

It is blossom end rot. To prevent and eliminate this problem, sprinkle ground eggshells around the growing area to provide calcium.

1-3 feet. This will prevent overcrowding, as they scramble and lie down on the ground when bearing fruit.

You should put the lid on loosely.