Adding a bathroom to your basement can be a fairly long and complicated process. This article will get you through the initial stage of this project, the rough plumbing. The steps are based on personal experience and offer a straightforward guide to the various aspects of the project. Be sure to check with local building codes when deciding the placement of the new sink and toilet!

Part 1
Part 1 of 4:

Preliminary Thinking

    • Metal detector
    • Scratch paper
    • Tape measure
    • This will be a vertical cast iron pipe, more than likely 4" in diameter.
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    • This is the pipe in the ground that the new toilet and sink will flow in to.
    • A crude drawing may be helpful to visualize where the you want the new sink and toilet in relation to the existing pipe.
    • This will also help you when you measure out the length of PVC you'll need.
  1. [1]
    • It is recommended that it be a 45 degree PVC pipe that attaches to the existing cast iron to help with the flow of waste.
    • Be sure to note that the PVC setup will vary depending on where the sink and toilet will be placed.
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Part 2
Part 2 of 4:

Breaking the Floor

    • Box cutter knife/chisel
    • Safety Glasses
    • Chalk/tape
    • Jackhammer
    • Bucket/spade
    • Plastic curtain
  1. Draw an outline in chalk or tape on the concrete floor where you will need break it, based on where you decided the new toilet and sink will go.
    • Hanging a plastic curtain around the work area can help contain dust!
  2. Break the floor to expose the necessary section of the cast iron pipe as well as the path that the new pipe will lay for the toilet and sink.
    • This can be done with a jackhammer which can be rented at a home improvement store.
    • Safety glasses should be worn when using tools! [2]
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Part 3
Part 3 of 4:

Assembling the New Pipe

    • Necessary sections of PVC as determined in Part 1
    • PVC primer and cement
    • Saw (hand or electric) for cutting PVC into shape
    • Angle grinder
    • Band-seal couplings and screwdriver
    • Use PVC primer and cement to fasten the sections together
    • Due to chemical fumes, make sure the area is well ventilated! [3]
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    • This can be done with a high speed angle grinder
    • The angle grinder will make sparks, be sure to wear safety glasses! [5]
    • Make sure that there is enough PVC on either side of the wye so that the band-coupling has enough of both PVC and cast iron pipe to attach to!
    • Cleaning the cast iron pipe makes for a tighter seal!
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Part 4
Part 4 of 4:

Rebuilding the Floor

    • Bags of sand
    • Bags of Ready Mix concrete
    • Mason trowels
    • Make sure the new pipe has a slope of at least 1/4" every foot flowing into the cast iron pipe. [6]
  1. 4" of concrete so that just the pipes that the toilet will sit on and the sink will connect to are exposed.
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Community Q&A

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  • Question
    What is the difference between a 10" and a 12" rough out?
    Community Answer
    2 inches, which can result in your toilet not fitting (because now the wall would be in the way).
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      Tips

      • Follow the instructions provided on the product when covering the sand with concrete
      • You can calculate the volume of the floor that needs to be filled to estimate how much sand and concrete you will need (length x width x height)
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      Warnings

      • Make sure that no water is run in the house while the pipe is being cut and while the new connection is drying, all water will flow through that pipe
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