Q&A for How to Choose Developer for Hair Color

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  • Question
    How much developer do I mix with hair dye?
    Laura Martin
    Licensed Cosmetologist
    Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist based in Milledgeville, Georgia. She has been working as a hair stylist since 2007, and began a career as a cosmetology teacher in 2013. She worked as a teacher at Arrojo Cosmetology School, teaching cosmetology practices, hairstyling, and hair color application. She also brought her cosmetology expertise to her work as a staff writer for fashion blog Style Noted, writing pieces related to hair and fashion. She received an MFA in Creative Writing from Georgia College & State University, where she was also an English Teaching Fellow. Additionally, she received a BA in Creative Writing and Literature from New York University.
    Licensed Cosmetologist
    Expert Answer
    This depends on the type of color and the brand. For most permanent colors, you mix color and developer in a ratio of 1:1.
  • Question
    What is the best developer to use with bleach?
    Laura Martin
    Licensed Cosmetologist
    Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist based in Milledgeville, Georgia. She has been working as a hair stylist since 2007, and began a career as a cosmetology teacher in 2013. She worked as a teacher at Arrojo Cosmetology School, teaching cosmetology practices, hairstyling, and hair color application. She also brought her cosmetology expertise to her work as a staff writer for fashion blog Style Noted, writing pieces related to hair and fashion. She received an MFA in Creative Writing from Georgia College & State University, where she was also an English Teaching Fellow. Additionally, she received a BA in Creative Writing and Literature from New York University.
    Licensed Cosmetologist
    Expert Answer
    You should use the same brand as the bleach for the best consistency. It's also a good idea to use a low-volume developer, such as 10 or 20, for the least brassy shade and to minimize damage.
  • Question
    What volume developer should I use to lighten my hair?
    Laura Martin
    Licensed Cosmetologist
    Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist based in Milledgeville, Georgia. She has been working as a hair stylist since 2007, and began a career as a cosmetology teacher in 2013. She worked as a teacher at Arrojo Cosmetology School, teaching cosmetology practices, hairstyling, and hair color application. She also brought her cosmetology expertise to her work as a staff writer for fashion blog Style Noted, writing pieces related to hair and fashion. She received an MFA in Creative Writing from Georgia College & State University, where she was also an English Teaching Fellow. Additionally, she received a BA in Creative Writing and Literature from New York University.
    Licensed Cosmetologist
    Expert Answer
    If you are mixing it with permanent color, you'll need to use 30 (for 1 level of lift) or 40 (for 2-3 levels of lift). If you are mixing it with bleach, any volume will lighten your hair.
  • Question
    How long do you leave 20-volume developer on?
    Laura Martin
    Licensed Cosmetologist
    Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist based in Milledgeville, Georgia. She has been working as a hair stylist since 2007, and began a career as a cosmetology teacher in 2013. She worked as a teacher at Arrojo Cosmetology School, teaching cosmetology practices, hairstyling, and hair color application. She also brought her cosmetology expertise to her work as a staff writer for fashion blog Style Noted, writing pieces related to hair and fashion. She received an MFA in Creative Writing from Georgia College & State University, where she was also an English Teaching Fellow. Additionally, she received a BA in Creative Writing and Literature from New York University.
    Licensed Cosmetologist
    Expert Answer
    If you have mixed it with permanent color, the processing time is usually 30 minutes. If you are lightening the hair or covering gray, it may take 45 minutes or more.
  • Question
    Can you go from black to platinum blonde in one day?
    Karen Leight
    Professional Hair Stylist
    Karen Leight is a Professional Hair Stylist and the Owner of Karen Renee Hair, a private salon suite inside the Salon Republic Hollywood in Los Angeles, California. With over 12 years of experience, Karen is a licensed cosmetologist specializing in hair color, balayage technique, and women’s and men’s precision haircuts.
    Professional Hair Stylist
    Expert Answer
    Not really. The process should be slow and you have to understand that some people simply can't achieve a platinum blonde. Talk to a professional and ask they to guide you through the process and through what is achievable for your specific hair.
  • Question
    Can you get your hair bleached in one day?
    Karen Leight
    Professional Hair Stylist
    Karen Leight is a Professional Hair Stylist and the Owner of Karen Renee Hair, a private salon suite inside the Salon Republic Hollywood in Los Angeles, California. With over 12 years of experience, Karen is a licensed cosmetologist specializing in hair color, balayage technique, and women’s and men’s precision haircuts.
    Professional Hair Stylist
    Expert Answer
    Technically, you can, but I don't recommend it. If you have dark hair and want to keep it healthy, you should bleach it with a professional gradually, over the course of a few days or weeks.
  • Question
    How do I choose the right hair color developer?
    wikiHow Staff Editor
    Staff Answer
    This answer was written by one of our trained team of researchers who validated it for accuracy and comprehensiveness.
    wikiHow Staff Editor
    Staff Answer
    Before you choose your developer, think about what color you are and what color you want to be. For instance, a volume 10 developer has minimal lift and is perfect for depositing a color close to your own. Volume 20 is good for covering gray hairs. Volume 30 can change you from a sandy blonde to a bright blonde, but not from dark brunette to platinum blonde. Each increment of 10 will change the level of your hair one level.
  • Question
    If I use a 30 developer and bright red henna, how will it turn out?
    MrCrowe
    Community Answer
    Henna is an herbal hair dye, and it cannot always be determined what the end result of dyeing your hair will be. Please, keep in mind that trying to highlight henna with chemicals may leave your hair greenish or may not even work at all. Pure henna should be put on bare hair - no oils, conditioner, no mixing with developer, etc. It would be better if you tried bleaching your hair first and dyeing your hair a certain color two weeks after the first process. It would minimize the risk of ending up with slightly green hair, and for sure the color's gonna be more vivid.
  • Question
    Can I leave my hair color on too long?
    Batty_babi_
    Community Answer
    It depends on the type of hair dye. Manic Panic, Arctic Fox, and Ion, along with other demi/semi-permanent dyes can stay on quite awhile. However, leaving it on for extended periods typically has little to no effect. If the dye has bleach, do not leave it on for longer than recommended or it can damage your hair and scalp.
  • Question
    My hair is black, and I want to dye some sections hot pink. Will it work with a 20 volume developer mixed with hair dye?
    GeGeGeLL
    Community Answer
    If your hair is darker, you might want to use 30 or 40 volume developer. The hot pink will not take very well to your hair if it hasn't been bleached much lighter beforehand. Be cautious, the stronger the developer, the more likely it is that your hair will have some damage.
  • Question
    What volume of peroxide should I use for retouching roots on silvery mixed dark hair for a red color? I used 30 volume 1:2 with red. Should I use 30 or 20 on roots first or last?
    Barronvonrussell
    Community Answer
    Without seeing your hair, it's tricky to suggest, but generally, when aiming for red on silvery-gray hair mixtures, use 20 volume peroxide with your desired red color and a little brown color (only on the silvery hair) to prevent it from turning pink as it fades.
  • Question
    How can I get the right mixture to color my gray hair pink?
    Jounna Nambili
    Community Answer
    Using a 30 or 40 volume developer should be sufficient for changing your hair color.
  • Question
    I am using a developer for grey hair coverage by Davinci called GE. Do you know about this product? What is the peroxide level, and will it lift the color?
    Skye marie
    Community Answer
    The Davines brand, known for its professional-grade hair color products, offers options for grey coverage, including the "GE" tone, which often refers to a natural or golden-enhanced shade. The peroxide level and its ability to lift color depend on the developer used. Generally, 6 Volume (1.8%) deposits color without lifting, while 10 Volume (3%) is ideal for grey coverage with minimal lift.
  • Question
    How much 10 developer should I mix with 1 oz of hair color?
    Community Answer
    The general rule is to use one part hair dye to two parts developer (1:2). So for 1 oz of hair color, you should use 2 oz of developer.
  • Question
    I have virgin black/dark-brown hair. What developer is best for tinting it without bleach?
    SmartFart1989
    Community Answer
    It depends on the tint color and whether you want the result to be lighter or darker.
  • Question
    What developer should I use to mix two colors?
    Community Answer
    If you're using semi-permanent or demi-permanent hair color, use a developer with a lower volume, between 3 and 20 Vol. For permanent hair color, use a developer with a higher volume, usually between 20 and 30 Vol.
  • Question
    Should I use a different volume developer if my roots are darker than the rest of my bleached ash brown hair and I want to dye my whole hair darker?
    Barronvonrussell
    Community Answer
    If you're coloring your lighter mid-lengths and ends the same color as your roots, the best developer depends on the condition of your bleached hair. Generally, using a developer under 20 volume, such as 5, 6, 8.5, 10, or 15, is best for depositing color. To minimize damage, use a low-ammonia permanent color (under 3%) or a semi/demi deposit-only ammonia-free color.
  • Question
    What product should I use to highlight my hair, which is colored dark brown?
    Barronvonrussell
    Community Answer
    Use a powder lightener with a low-volume developer to highlight your hair. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for the best results.
  • Question
    Should I use a higher developer on my dark brown roots to achieve a bright reddish pink color?
    Barronvonrussell
    Community Answer
    To achieve the same bright reddish pink color on your dark roots, you should pre-lighten them first. This involves a two-step process: pre-lighten your roots, then shampoo, rinse, and apply your desired color.
  • Question
    What kind of developer is least likely to cause an allergic reaction on the skin?
    Barronvonrussell
    Community Answer
    Consult a physician if you have allergies to professional hair products. Developers contain hydrogen peroxide, fatty acids, and a conditioning agent like coconut oil. Most allergies are caused by the ammonia in the color, not the developer.
  • Question
    What developer works best for color removal?
    Barronvonrussell
    Community Answer
    Most color removers come with an activator. Always read the manufacturer's recommendations first. If you are mixing your color remover from scratch, use this guideline: if the color originally required a developer, use 1 oz. powder lightener and 2 oz. of low-volume developer; for colors not needing a developer, use 1 oz. powder lightener, 1 oz. water, and 3 pumps of shampoo. Process until the color is gone.
  • Question
    What developer should I use to go from highlighted hair to a copper color?
    Barronvonrussell
    Community Answer
    If your desired copper shade is darker than your existing highlights, use a low-volume developer such as 5, 6, 8.5, 10, or 15 volume.
  • Question
    How can I fix my orange highlights and make them blonde again?
    Barronvonrussell
    Community Answer
    Consult a hair color specialist for a corrective color procedure. If your hair feels damaged, it's best to start with a deep conditioning treatment. A professional may use low-volume lightener for highlights and apply a color close to your natural shade to neutralize the orange tones.
  • Question
    What volume of developer should I use for my baby fine hair if I want to keep my medium ash brown color and add volume?
    Community Answer
    Use a 20-volume developer to lift your hair by 2 shades and help cover greys. A 30-volume developer can lift hair 3-4 shades, but only use it on thick or coarse hair as it may be too harsh for fine hair. Avoid a 40-volume developer to prevent damage.
  • Question
    Is the developer supposed to be included with store-bought hair color?
    Barronvonrussell
    Community Answer
    Check the manufacturer's information regarding the packaging contents. Not all hair color products require a developer.
  • Question
    What volume developer should I use to cover my gray hair?
    Barronvonrussell
    Community Answer
    The industry standard for gray coverage is a 20-volume developer. However, the color itself needs to contain ammonia or MEA to effectively cover gray hair.
  • Question
    How long should I leave 30 volume developer on naturally white/silver hair before applying Ion Radiant Orchid semi-permanent cream hair color? Do I wash out the developer before applying the Ion color?
    Community Answer
    You can leave the bleach on for 15-40 minutes. Check your hair every 5-10 minutes to see when your desired level of lightness is achieved and avoid over-processing.
  • Question
    What volume of developer should I use to maintain my current hair color?
    Community Answer
    To maintain the same color level, use a 7 Vol. to 10 Vol. developer. For slightly lighter shades (1 to 2 levels), use 15 Vol. to 20 Vol. For 3 to 4 levels lighter, use 25 Vol. to 30 Vol.
  • Question
    What professional hair color do you recommend: Redken, Matrix, or Paul Mitchell?
    Barronvonrussell
    Community Answer
    All salon-exclusive professional brands are great. Redken, Matrix, and Paul Mitchell are excellent choices. The difference will depend on how the color reacts with your hair and lifestyle.
  • Question
    I have dark brown thin hair. What number developer should I use?
    Barronvonrussell
    Community Answer
    The developer you use depends on your desired outcome. Are you looking to go lighter or darker, and is your hair already color-treated or virgin?
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