Q&A for How to Acid Etch Steel

It does not matter how thick the steel is, as the etch is only on the surface.

Use copper sulpate solution.

No. The purpose of the wax is to protect the area you do not want etched. The design you want etched into the metal has to be on the part that is not covered by the wax. Maybe if you dipped your finger in something, like oil or paint, then pressed that print to the metal, it might create enough resistance on the ridges of the fingerprint for it to work.

Nickel is easily corroded; etching it is a shallow method that takes time.

"Transparency" or "acetate" film from your local printers or photographic suppliers. It's a thin clear plastic sheet, printable one one side. You ink jet prints your design on it, and it basically becomes a transfer.

It depends on the acid. For nitro acid, it should be boiling for best results, but you can get similar results at room temperature. It just depends on how long you want to wait.

If there is a pool or hot tub store near by that sells chemicals, pick up a liters worth of PH Down or PH Minus. Next boil a cup of water and place it into a tub or something that resists acid. Add 1/4 of the liter and then let it settle, then follow the rest of the instructions to etch the steel.

This depends on the accuracy of your print transfer and thickness of the metal sheet you want to etch.

Use the molarity equation.

Your acid baths should be behind glass sliding doors with an overhead ventilation system. Always wear gloves, a mask, and eye or face protection.

Not too deep. If you leave the steel in for too long, the acid will start to eat away at the sides of the etch, ruining it.

Yes, just make sure that its applied with care over a clean steel plate. Try to press the borders with care for better adhesion, and keep in mind that some fine etch will go behind the border of the vinyl if the etch goes deep in the plate; it makes thin lines in the etched steel get thinner then in the vinyl. Keep an eye on the process to avoid surprises. Try your process in a small plate before making a large plate.

Search "metal supplier" followed by your country or nearest city. Alternatively, ask an engineering shop or handyman.

You could, but that depends on the strength of the acid and whether you are continually applying the acid or just spreading it on and leaving it. If you are using ink or marker for your etching, I wouldn't recommend rubbing the acid on, as it can smudge the designs. Just don't mess around with concentrated HCl, as it's very dangerous; follow all handling precautions to a T.

Ferric chloride should work fine. For a deeper etch, leave it for longer. The temperature will also play a role.

You can go 4-5mm deep before the acid starts etching the walls. If you coat the newly created walls periodically to avoid etching into the metal, you could go as long as you want.

Sure you could. But it's not sure why unless it's Damascus. You would have to brush it on and do a bunch of cycles. You don't want to eat away the rifling in the barrel or eat away other bits of the other parts and mess with the tolerances.