Q&A for How to Install a Wood Fence Post

For setting a wooden fence post, I recommend using a quick-set concrete.

The process for setting a metal fence post in concrete is the same method as installing a wooden post in concrete.

Of course! Just mix up some more concrete and apply it around the base of the posts. Then, use a trowel to slope the concrete down from the post.

Deer fences need to be about 6 feet (1.8 m) tall to keep deer out. Install wooden fence posts about 15 feet (4.5 m) apart. Then, attach woven wire fencing between the posts that extends from the ground to about 5 feet (1.5 m) tall.

The risk of preservatives leaking into your garden is low, so use pressure treated wood in your garden at your own discretion. Woods treated with alkaline copper quaternary (ACQ) are typically considered safe for garden use. If you want to take extra precautions, line your garden bed with plastic where it touches the wood.

This will depend on how big your fence panels are. Usually the panels are 6 feet (1.8 meters) wide.

If you place posts in concrete, when you have to replace them you'll have to remove the concrete. So just know to be prepared to spend more effort digging up the old concrete and post.

Yes. Don't let you posts just sit in the sun. Wait until you have all your materials on site, and then you can set your posts.

The rule of thumb is 1/3 length of post, or in this case 4ft. If using gravel only, tamp down all around the posts every few inches as gravel is poured in.

If you want all the tops even, an easier way would be to run a string line after all the posts are set, then mark and trim off the tops of the posts.

The stakes are just needed to hold it centered and in place. Once you're finished, they can be removed or left in place, but they're no longer necessary.

No, but make sure you're using a 10 ft. 4x4's and burying them 4 feet deep. A 6x6 is a bit overkill.

Regardless of terrain, labor costs should be the same per hour. What determines labor costs is the length of time it takes to finish the job. An efficient three-man crew could complete your job in a long day (8-10 hours). Cost would vary depending on your location, but you can expect to pay at least $600.

There's no set rule. Usually stakes will go on the owner's side to present a more esthetic appearance to passersby, if it is a solid wood fence. Just for the sake of harmony, if you have nearby neighbors, you might consider discussing your plans with them.

It depends on the type of fence. A wood fence should need no extra support. A wire fence will need bracing.

Wrapping the post in plastic will retain moisture and speed up decomposing. Priming the post with a stain that soaks into the wood will help to reduce rotting.

Yes, they should always go below the frost line to prevent the posts from heaving with the freezing of moisture in the ground.

I heard that in Canada the standard used to be 4' deep to be below the frost. Now some people are doing it 3 to 3.5', and it is fine (15 years and standing).

It depends on whether or not the concrete is in good shape (i.e. no cracks). If the post holder makes good contact with the top of the concrete footing, then it should be fine. If the posts aren't secured properly, then the back and forth action of the fence during high winds will eventually cause any post on the line to snap.

If your posts move a little, then they will eventually move more, so make sure they are solidly in place.

There are 4x4 metal brackets with a large spike extending about 18 inches below. They do not meet codes, but they will allow you to set your post and be able to pull it out later when the area has had time to adjust to disturbances.

Dig a hole for each post. A channel is difficult to bury and you have to backfill each area that doesn't have a post in it. It is more labor-intensive to dig a hole for each post but the fence will last longer and be that much stronger in rain and wind, and when the neighbor kids climb it.

Mix concrete and put it into the cracks. Then cut rebar in 1-foot pieces and pound the pieces with a sledgehammer into the wet concrete to lower the concrete and take up space to hold the post in place.

The problem with longer spans is that they can sag. You can counter this by building the span in the form of a truss, ensuring solid joints, all elements should be well drained and by using screws (not nails). The preceding should reduce the risk of larger spans sagging. A simple mid span floating ground support could additionally be used.

You can. You can also go to a farm supply store such as Tractor Supply Company and get asphalt paint. Paint everything that will be below grade. It will extend the life of a properly maintained fence exponentially.