Q&A for How to Paint Aluminum Siding

Yes. Choose an oxidizing primer that will help inhibit the growth of rust in the future.

I would recommend that you use a roller brush with a 1/2 inch nap cover.

Start by sanding the surface with 80-120 grit sandpaper or wire brushes, which will give the primer and paint something to hold on to. Then, prime the aluminum with an oxidizing primer made specifically for metal, which will help inhibit rust from forming in the future. Then, go over that with the top coat of your choice.

Absolutely not.

Use exterior grade acrylic that's labeled for use on aluminum.

It is best to remove the rust. You'll find them at your paint store or treat with a rust converter, which reacts with the rust to create a primer. Sand any roughness to a smooth finish before applying primer or paint.

No. Use a quality cleaner, which is relatively cheap, to remove dirt, mold and mildew. Some of these have a bleach base and remove all the mold and mildew. If you rub your hand on the siding before you wash it and you get chalky coloring on your hand, then it is a good idea to use a brush or sponge to wipe the siding down to remove that oxidized paint, then use your cleaner, wait for the house to completely dry, then you are on your way. I did my home using Olympic One, exterior acrylic paint and primer in one. I had no peeling or bubbles, so it was easy to just roll most of it, using a brush to do the tight spaces. It came out looking amazing.

It is not recommended.

It all depends on the condition of the siding. If you are changing colors, or if you already know it will take 2 coats, using a primer wouldn't be a bad idea. If, for example, you are painting a house white, you may be able to save money by using a good quality latex white primer first, as primers may be a little less expensive as opposed to the finish paints.

Absolutely, as long as everything you are painting over is solid with no peeling, flaking or dirt. Use a good quality exterior latex paint. Another tip, if the previous coat of paint is in decent shape, either use 150 grit sandpaper or use a biodegradable gloss remover. (Don't be too aggressive with the sandpaper.)

That would depend on the type of skirting. Aluminum would require a good cleaning. Remove anything around the base, for example weeds or stones, to make it a little bit easier. Using a Scotch Brite pad and regular household cleaners will also smooth the surface without the use of sandpaper. Vinyl is a bit different, for that I would recommend visiting a reputable paint store/counter for advice on their products.

You can use a chemical paint remover. Read the label to be sure it doesn't exclude use on aluminum surfaces. Properly prime all bare aluminum surfaces before painting. You can also sand these areas if you prefer. It would help if you use an electric sander rather than a manual sander if much area is involved.

On siding that doesn't require a lot of prep and doesn't have a lot of detail that has to be done with a brush, I would say 5-6. It took me 6 hours to do the windows, one side of the house, and the back. If I can do all that in 6, two people should be able to do the whole place in about that amount of time, give or take.

Not using oil is in reference to painting galvanized steel. Oil or acrylic can be used on aluminum.

Yes, specifically a water-based acrylic paint that is labeled for use on aluminum. Sherwin Williams SuperPaint or Durations meet this requirement, and are generally self-priming.

If you prepare the surface properly and use a good quality paint, you should not have to repaint for many, many years. My home's aluminum siding was painted 25+ years ago, and has held up very well.