Q&A for How to Solder Stained Glass

The level of smoothness desired determines the grit to use when polishing glass. Advancing through different grit sizes is the key, starting with an 80 grit representing a significantly rough stage, while a 600 or 1200 grit signifies an extremely fine level. The progression in grit sizes allows for achieving either a buff or a highly polished edge based on your desired outcome.

Soldering needs a clean, hot surface. If the foil you're using is too wide, then the iron will need to provide more heat to get the foil to the solder melting temperature. Contamination on the foil will also prevent the solder from melting. Scrub the foil with a nail file and wipe it down with alcohol before trying again.

Adding a "wire frame" around critical areas can stabilize the glass. Be sure to position and solder the wire in the middle of the foil. Use a wooden shim at the level of the wire for keeping a constant height when soldering the wire. This should keep the piece level.

Sweat and oil from hands can tarnish the foil. Test a piece of the foil with solder. Flux is supposed to clean the surface, but if there is contamination, it cannot clear the surface. Try scrubbing the surface with a nail file/emery board and wipe off with alcohol. Get new foil if this does not work on the test foil.

Use a piece of wire and form a loop or circle (depending on the look desired). Attach copper foil to the hanger. Apply solder to the foil, as the metal part of the hanger will absorb a lot of heat. Attempting to solder straight to the piece after adding foil will not form a strong joint. Pre-soldering the piece allows for a more uniform solder joint with less heat to solder. Copper foil can tarnish easily from the sweat and oil from hands.