Q&A for How to Sew Using Patterns

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  • Question
    How do you cut a dress pattern?
    Kpoene Kofi-Bruce
    Couture Bridal Designer
    Kpoene Kofi-Bruce is a tailor, couture wedding gown designer, and the Creative Director of Mignonette Bridal and Ette the Wedding Tailor in Chicago, Illinois. With nearly two decades of experience as a wedding gown designer, small business owner, and vintage sewing enthusiast, Kpoene specializes in wedding gown design and the social history of wedding dresses. She received a BA in Creative Writing from Middlebury College and studied the business of fashion at the Fashion Institute of Technology. She is also a graduate of the Goldman Sachs 10KSB program and the Chicago Fashion Incubator and has written about wedding fashion for Jezebel, Catalyst, the Sun Times, and XO Jane.
    Couture Bridal Designer
    Expert Answer
    First, you should read through the pattern so that you understand all the steps. Then, identify which pattern pieces you need. After that, iron the pattern on a low setting with very light steam and press cloth between the pattern and the iron. Once everything is flat, cut it out with your paper-only scissors.
  • Question
    Should I cut out the patterns?
    Community Answer
    Yes. Cut the patterns out first, then pin them to your fabric, then cut your fabric. If you are making multiple outfits from the same pattern, but in different sizes, consider tracing or photocopying the pattern first, then using the copies.
  • Question
    What does it mean where it says on the back of the pattern the amount of fabric I need (i.e. 45 or 60)?
    Community Answer
    It means the width of the purchased fabric.
  • Question
    I'm trying to sew pockets onto a gathered apron skirt, and the instructions are not making sense to me. Why does it want me to sew the pockets on before attaching the fabric to the rest of the skirt?
    Community Answer
    Attaching the pockets first makes it easier to sew them on without wrinkles. Doing this first also means you have less fabric to deal with later when assembling the rest of the skirt.
  • Question
    What does right side up mean?
    Community Answer
    If the fabric is right side up, the outside (the side of the garment you see when worn) will be facing you when placed on the table. If the pattern is right side up, you will see the print.
  • Question
    Is it easier to make doll clothes or real clothes?
    Community Answer
    Each have their pros and cons. Doll clothes use less fabric, and therefore are more forgiving on your wallet if you mess up, but if they have intricate details, they may be much harder to execute.
  • Question
    Do I need to sew the pattern, too?
    Community Answer
    No, the purpose of the paper pattern is to help you to carefully cut out the fabric first, including notches, then transfer the dart/button markings/instructions from the paper pattern onto your fabric with a piece of chalk or (washable) fabric marker so you'll know where to sew those things. After the fabric is cut, the pattern can be set aside.
  • Question
    How do I cut multi-size patterns?
    Community Answer
    Measure yourself with a measuring tape (or the person you're making the clothes for) first, Write down the measurements, then take another look at the pattern envelope. It will show you which line of the pattern tissue paper to cut on based on size.
  • Question
    Do I iron the pattern?
    Community Answer
    If your pattern tissue paper is very wrinkled, sure, it helps to read it. Be sure to use a very low setting on the iron.
  • Question
    Should I over sew before joining pieces?
    Community Answer
    It depends on your fabric. Cotton is a fabric that can fray. It's a good thing to "overlock" or "zig-zag" stitch on the very edges of your fabric before you sew the pieces together. It's better to do this before you sew your fabric together just because it'll be much easier to feed one piece of flat fabric through the machine first.
  • Question
    Should I pin my fabric on the right side of the fabric or the wrong side of the fabric?
    Community Answer
    You want to pin the fabric on the side that will be facing up as you are sewing it. This will usually mean fabric pieces should be pinned together from the wrong side so that you can easily take the pins out as you are sewing it.
  • Question
    What does "cut 1 on fold" mean?
    Community Answer
    It means fold the fabric, then cut one out. If it specifies an edge, then put the fold part there. So you are making two joined copies of the same thing, so you have symmetry.
  • Question
    What is "nap," and is it important when sewing?
    Community Answer
    Nap is when the hairs of a fabric lie in a certain direction (like velvet and corduroy). It is important when sewing because if you don't have the nap running in the same direction on your pattern pieces, you will end up with different color shadings and other problems.
  • Question
    What should I do with the large dotted lines in a triangle shape that are on my pattern?
    Community Answer
    Those are darts. You should trace them onto your fabric with a tracing wheel and marking paper. (It's sort of like making a carbon copy; the paper has a lightly colored coating that gets transferred onto your fabric.) Then, match up the dotted lines and sew those to make your dart. The excess fabric should be on the inside of the garment, and on the outside you should see a clean line that helps the flat fabric lay on the body nicely.
  • Question
    Do the patterns tell you what type of fabric/materials you need?
    Community Answer
    Yes, usually you will find the needed materials on the bottom corner or near the size chart.
  • Question
    As a beginner, do I need to start out using patterns?
    Community Answer
    Not at all. While patterns are useful because they provide a complete set of instructions, making easy garments that don't need a pattern is also very rewarding. I recommend a circle skirt or half-circle skirt to start with. You can find lots of tutorials on YouTube to help you.
  • Question
    My pattern says it goes up to size 16, but the tissue pattern only goes up to size 14. How can I make the top size 16?
    Community Answer
    If the pattern that you cut your attached material to only goes up to a 14, there obviously was a mistake. Buy another package or call the pattern's company to complain of the mistake.
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