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Learn how to replace ceiling fans & rewire lighting like a professional
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So your old fan is looking a little worn out, or maybe it just stopped working altogether. You need that cool breeze on those balmy summer days, so it's up to you to switch out your fan for a better option. Changing the fan can be a little intimidating, but you're up to the challenge if you just go step by step and be sure to read the directions that come with your new fan. To help guide you through this process, we met with home improvement specialist Allen Lee and master electrician James Hornof to ensure you tackle this task safely and correctly.

Replacing a Ceiling Fan: Quick Steps

  1. Shut the power off to the fan using the fuse box.
  2. Remove the old canopy and undo the wires.
  3. Take the fan down and assemble the new fan on the floor.
  4. Install the new bracket and hang the fan from it.
  5. Wire your new fan and hang the downrod.
  6. Secure the canopy and install the blades and lights.
Part 1
Part 1 of 4:

Removing the Old Fan

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  1. Replacing a fan is not complicated work, but it is possible that you could cause an electrical fire or short if you do not wire the fan correctly or you do not ground the fixture. As a result, some cities require permits when you are changing out ceiling fans. Others just require them if you're moving from a light to a ceiling fan. Still, it's best to check ahead of time to see if you need to get a permit. [1]
    • Contact your city permit office for more information. You may also be able to look up the information online.
    • Don’t worry about causing a fire or a short. Replacing a ceiling fan is basically as easy as electrical work gets, and if you’re a little bit handy, you should be able to do this safely with no problems.
    • If you are worried about potentially starting an electrical fire, just hire an electrician to do this. You should be able to find someone who will replace the fan for under $200.
  2. Lee explains that it’s not safe to work on live wires. Simply turning the power off at the switch isn't enough to keep you safe. Find the room the fan is in on the fuse box. Flip the switch so there is no power going to that room. [2]
    • Check your work . Always flip the power switch to the fan back on after you flip the fuse switch to make sure the power has actually been turned off.
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  3. The canopy is the part up near the ceiling that covers the spot where the fan feeds into the ceiling. Usually, you'll need to unscrew a fastener or two to take off the canopy. If you don’t see any screws or switches holding the canopy in place, twist it counterclockwise. It probably screws off. [3]
    • The screws will likely be near the ceiling. You may need to slide the canopy over a notch on one screw to pull it down.
  4. Do not unscrew the bracket. The bracket holds the fan in the air, but you likely won’t be able to see the wiring setup without creating some space, so take the fan off the bracket. Don’t drop it. Often, the fan will have a ball or something similar that just slides off the bracket, though you may need to jiggle it a bit. [4]
    • Look for a hook on the bracket and hang the fan on that. If there is a randomly placed hook on the ceiling bracket, this is where you hang the fan while you work on disconnecting the wires. You do not have to hold the fan up in mid-air the entire time.
    • If you don’t have a hook, ask a helper to hold the fan for you. Lee says that you must always support the fan while you remove it. It can help to have someone support the fan as you pull it off its bracket and slide it free. [5]
  5. 5
    Take some photos of the wiring setup. Most ceiling fan wiring setups are very straightforward. There are three (maybe four) wires, and they’re color-coded to match the wires in the ceiling. Still, it’ll make your life a lot easier when you’re installing the new fan if you have some references from how the old fan was wired. [6]
    • You may need to unscrew a bracket holding the wires in the ceiling before you can take a photo.
  6. You'll need to twist the caps a bit to pull them off. Start with the black wires first, then do the white. Finish up with the bare/green wires. [7]
    • What do the wire colors mean? Hornof breaks it down as follows: [8]
      • Black: This is the hot wire. It powers the motor (and sometimes the light) of the fan.
      • White: This is neutral.
      • Green (or bare copper): These are ground wires. They’re key to safely operating the fan.
      • Blue: If you have a blue wire, it powers the fan’s light kit.
      • Red: If you have a blue wire, you may also have a red wire. This wire carries power to the light kit.
  7. As you take off each cap, you should notice the wires that have been twisted together. Often, they'll spring apart as you untwist the cap, but you may need to pull them apart yourself. One wire is from the fan, and one is from the ceiling, which is why they need to come apart for you to pull the fan down. [9]
  8. 8
    Take the fan off of the ceiling. With the wires disconnected, nothing is holding the fan in place. Carefully carry it down off the ladder from the ceiling and set it aside to be recycled or reused later.
  9. Your new ceiling fan will have its own bracket that fits that fan perfectly, so you likely need to take down the old bracket. However, leave the box that attaches to the ceiling in place. The bracket fits over the mount. [10]
    • If you’re replacing the fan with the same brand, leave the bracket in place for now. You will very likely be able to reuse the bracket, and you’ll save yourself a lot of time and effort by leaving the bracket in place. If it turns on that you do need to replace the bracket, you can always do that later.
  10. Now is a good time to check if the wires look frayed. You can also check the mount/brace above the bracket to make sure it is secure. It shouldn't wiggle around, and it should be screwed into the ceiling. Also, look at where the wires come out. It should have a plastic connector around the hole, so that the wires are up against the edge of the mount (because the mount is metal). [11]
    • If you have a problem with any of the above, you may need to replace the mount or the wiring. If that's the case, call in a professional electrician.
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Part 2
Part 2 of 4:

Prepping the Ceiling & Fan

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  1. The bracket holds the fan in place and it's hidden by the fan's motor. Pull the wires from the brace through the middle of the bracket. Line up the bracket with the mounting bolts in the brace above. You'll either clip or slide the bracket into place over the bolts. [12]
    • Make sure you read the instructions for your particular fan. In some cases, you may need to use screws to secure the bracket.
    • Skip this step if you’re using the old bracket. You can probably reuse the old bracket if the fan is the same brand (and almost positively if it’s the same brand and model). Do not reuse a bracket for a different brand, though. Every brand has their own weight allowances and setups for the bracket.
  2. Read your fan’s manual to put everything together. This typically doesn’t involve very much work. At most, you’ll probably just have to put the downrod and canopy on the top of the motor.
    • Thread the wires through the downrod. Unless your manual tells you otherwise, the wires on the motor run through the downrod to lead into the ceiling.
    • Do not install the blades. Save the blades for the very end of the process once the motor is safely installed on the ceiling. If you install the blades on the ground, it’ll be a nightmare to work around them on the ceiling.
  3. 3
    Thread and separate the wires through the ceiling. Feed the wires in the ceiling through the designated hole on the bracket. If your bracket doesn’t have specific holes for the wires (which is common on cheaper models), just separate the wires and smooth them out to avoid turning your fan’s setup into a rat’s nest.
  4. The downrod will likely screw into the top of the fan, but if it goes on the ceiling first per your instructions, do that. You may need to tighten a locking screw in place, usually on the side of the rod near the motor. Use a wrench for tightening. Make sure the locking screws are tight, as your fan may wobble if they're not.
    • You may also need to attach the ball mount, though some may have this attached already. Place it on the downrod and secure it with the pin.
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Part 3
Part 3 of 4:

Connecting the Fan and Wires

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  1. This is a lot easier if you have someone support the fan from below. Lift it up to the bracket. The ball at the top should slide right into the bracket you just installed. If you're unsure how yours slides in, check the instructions that came with your fan. [13]
    • Hang one edge of the canopy up to work on the wires.
    • Does your bracket have a hanging hook? If you need more room, hang the built-in loop on the top of the fan on the bracket hook instead of connecting the rod to the bracket.
  2. The fan wires are typically way too long for a normal installation, so now is the time to cut them. Just make them about 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) longer than the downrod, matching the length of the wires extending from the ceiling. Strip off the plastic at the ends of the wire so they can be joined with their mates. [14]
    • How much of the wire do I need to strip? You only need the top 0.5–1 in (1.3–2.5 cm) stripped from each wire to connect them.
    • You do not need to strip bare ground wires. If your fan has a 100% copper ground wire, you do not need to strip it.
  3. Connect the wires with plastic wire nuts. Use a wire nut to connect the two green wires with the bare copper wire. Hold the ends together, and twist it on to connect them. Also connect the two white wires, and then the two black wires with the same method. [15]
    • What about blue or red wires? Hornof explains what to do here: [16]
      • If you have both blue and red wires: Connect them together to the second live wire in the ceiling (usually black). If you do not have two live wires, contact an electrician.
      • If you only have a blue wire: Connect it to the second live wire. If you do not have a second live wire, contact an electrician.
    • When you're done, tuck the wires up into the brace above. Be careful to avoid crossing any wires that do not belong together in a wire nut.
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Part 4
Part 4 of 4:

Attaching the Blades and Light

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  1. Push the canopy up so that it's flat against the ceiling. You'll likely need to screw it into place, though a few may pop into the bracket without screws. The screws should fit up close to the ceiling. [17]
  2. Each fan blade fits into a bracket, and each bracket fits onto the fan. Slide each blade into the bracket and add screws to secure it. Then, screw the bracket into the pre-drilled slots on the fan. You may need to use more than one screw, according to your directions.
    • If your brackets are presassembled on the fan, you screw the blades directly into the motor.
    • Screw these in tightly, as a loose bracket could make your fan wobble.
  3. Plug the wired plug into the light's attachment, which connects the electricity, and screw in the light kit as described by your directions. Add the light bulb and any shade that goes on top, which you may also need to screw in. [18]
    • You may also need to attach the pull chain.
  4. Once you're sure everything is connected properly, you can flip the breaker back on. Test the fan with the light switch to see if it seems to be working correctly.
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Expert Q&A

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  • Question
    What's the difference between a light-rated and fan-rated junction box?
    Allen Lee
    Home Improvement Specialist
    Allen Lee is a Home Improvement Specialist and the Owner of Honest Lee Handyman Services, a licensed and insured handyman business servicing Sacramento, California, and surrounding areas. Working with homeowners and businesses to get their small repairs done in a timely and efficient manner, Honest Lee Handyman Services provides gutter and dryer vent cleaning along with fixture, fence, drywall, and toilet repairs.
    Home Improvement Specialist
    Expert Answer
    A light-rated junction box is only made to hold the weight of a light fixture, while a fan-rated junction box is made to hold the heavier weight of a ceiling fan.
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      About This Article

      Article Summary X

      If you've already removed your old ceiling fan and are ready to replace it, start by pulling the wires from the brace through the bracket and clipping the bracket into place on the bolts. Next, feed the wires from the fan through the canopy and downrod before screwing the downrod in position. Once the downrod is secure, lift your fan up to the bracket and slide the ball at the top into place. Finally, trim the green, white, and black wires so they're 6 inches longer than the downrod , then connect them to the copper wires using wire nuts. To find out how to attach the blades and light, keep reading!

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