How to Balayage

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Balayage is a low-maintenance, gorgeous way to lighten your hair and frame your face with bright highlights, and despite what you may have heard, it’s totally possible to do it yourself at home. You just want to make sure you’re choosing the right color and using a dye kit made specifically for highlighting or balayage. Don’t worry—we’ll walk you through the whole process step-by-step, from choosing your dye to applying it to your hair to maintaining the results. Keep reading to get started!

Part 1
Part 1 of 3:

Choosing a Color

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  1. If your hair is a naturally cool, dark shade, like chocolate or dark ash brown, choose a light blonde color for your balayage highlights. A shade of lighter ash or khaki will give you sleek, flattering highlights. [1]
    • If you have very dark hair, you may need to bleach it before attempting to dye it blonde. Otherwise, your hair may not appear as light as you want. The final color will depend on your natural hair color and the developer you use.
    • Looking at your skin tone will help you figure out if your hair is warm or cool. An easy way to figure out your skin tone is to check if you look best with silver or gold jewelry. You'll likely look best with gold jewelry if your skin tone is warm or silver jewelry if your skin tone is cool.
  2. If you have warmer-toned or natural hair in shades like walnut or mahogany, go for blonde highlights with more yellow in them. Look for a caramel or honey blonde shade for a warm, natural look. [2]
    • If you have natural hair, gold tones look especially great. Try balayage highlights in red, gold, or copper. [3]
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  3. If you want to try the balayage technique with light, icy-toned blonde hair, go with a shade with no warm tones, like cool beige or flaxen. These more metallic shades can enhance the gray-green tint of your hair. [4]
    • Balayage highlights will only pop on blonde hair that’s more dirty blonde, as opposed to platinum. If you have white blonde hair, try lowlights instead.
  4. With blonde hair that’s sunnier and warmer in color, like honey or sandy shades, look for a dye that’s light gold, beachy, or burnished yellow. Subtle highlights in these shades will add depth and movement to your naturally blonde locks. [5]
  5. Balayage can be a great technique to bring out different notes in red hair, too. Stay within the same general hue as your natural color for a subtle, sun-kissed look. [6]
    • If you have a blue-red hair tone, like scarlet or wine, go with cooler balayage colors like strawberry.
    • For an orange-red hair color, try copper or ginger highlights.
  6. It’s best to balayage hair with highlighting or balayage kits, which are available at any store that sells hair products and online. Good kits should be easy to find and affordable.
    • Balayage kits come with a comb applicator, lightening formula, plastic gloves, conditioner to use afterwards, and instructions. They're a convenient way to try this hair coloring technique at home.
    • If you can't find a balayage kit, you might try a kit made for traditional highlights.
    • If you have very dark hair, you might also need a bleaching kit if you're hope for a dramatic change.
    • Balayage will work on any hair type.
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Part 2
Part 2 of 3:

Applying the Hair Dye

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  1. Follow the instructions on your highlighting kit to get your dye ready to go. Put an old towel around your shoulders to soak up excess dye and wear an old shirt in case of spills. You should also slip on disposable plastic gloves to prevent stains on your hands. [7]
    • You’ll want to start with dry, clean hair for the best dye application. [8]
    • Unlike other hair coloring techniques, you might not have to apply bleach before you balayage hair. The dye formula included in your kit comes with all the ingredients you’ll need to lighten your hair without a separate bleaching step, in some cases. If you want a dramatic color change from dark hair to light, then you may still need to bleach your hair.
  2. Choose a small piece from the bottom layer of your hair and apply just a dab of dye to it. Let it process for the instructed amount of time, then rinse out the dye and check the color.
    • This allows you to check the dye color and make sure that your hair doesn’t have any negative reactions to it.
  3. Draw the tail end of a comb from ear-to-ear in a halo-like line to separate your hair into top, middle, and bottom sections. Slip hair ties around the top and middle sections and move them to the sides, or pull them into small buns so you can work on the bottom section first. [9]
  4. Starting on one side of your hair, separate out one thin piece of hair. The exact width of your highlights depends on your preference, but balayage tends to look best with thinner, more subtle highlights, no more than 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide. [10]
  5. Hold the strand with hand and dip your fingers or dye brush into the hair dye. Then, gently paint the dye onto the strip of hair with your other hand, applying it more heavily at the bottom and tapering off as you reach the mid-lengths. [11]
    • If you want a natural look, painting the dye onto your hair is the best way to achieve it. However, you should not make horizontal or broad strokes. Try to blend it as well as you can.
    • Unlike with traditional highlights, you'll only apply the dye to part of the strand, so don't go all the way to your roots. Most balayage styles tend to fade out about midway up the strand, especially on long hair.
    • This tapering method will give your hair the natural, fading effect that the balayage technique is known for.
    • Be extra careful if you have short hair so you don't accidentally cover more of your hair than you'd like.
  6. Pick a strand on the other side of your head and repeat the application process, going back and forth and from front to back. For the most natural, sun-kissed look, only highlight strands that are about 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart, or as far apart as you want your highlights.
    • Once you complete the bottom layer, you can gently section it off with a hair tie, though this is optional. You can also cover your hair with a piece of foil before proceeding. Then, repeat the process with the middle and top sections of your hair.
    • The hair in the bottom layer tends to be darker and more difficult to lighten, so it’s best to add highlights there first and give them the longest time to process.
  7. Once you’ve added your highlights, check your dye box to see how long you should wait to let the color process—it’s typically around 20-30 minutes. Then, rinse out the dye with the shampoo included in the package and follow it with a thick layer of the toning mask, if one is included. [12]
    • Leave the toning mask in as long as instructed, then rinse it out in the shower.
    • Remember that the longer you let the dye process, the lighter your highlights will be.
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Part 3
Part 3 of 3:

Maintaining Your Balayage Look

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  1. Part of the reason that the balayage technique is so popular is that the process doesn’t require touch-up trips to the salon; it will grow out very naturally. Keep an eye on the color and simply repeat the process whenever you think your color needs a pick-me-up, every 2-3 months. [13]
    • You can even let your balayage highlights go longer and transition it to an ombre look.
  2. [14] To keep your highlights looking fresh, opt for a color-correcting shampoo and conditioner combo that won’t fade your dye prematurely. Using products made for dyed hair will also keep your highlights from getting dark or brassy. [15]
    • If you have have naturally blonde hair, keep your highlights from turning brassy or yellow by using a purple shampoo or spray once or twice a week. However, don't use it too often, as it can give your hair a purple tint.
    • Avoid washing your hair every day, as that can dry it out. Try washing your hair every 2-3 days instead, and use dry shampoo to touch up your roots between washes. [16]
  3. Apply a hair mask once a week to hydrate your strands. Even the small amount of hair dye used in balayage can dry out your strands, leaving them stiff and hard to style. To keep your hair healthy, apply a hydrating hair mask once a week.
    • You can buy a hair mask at a beauty store or online, or make your own.
    • If you bleached your hair, apply a restorative treatment to your hair once or twice a week. You can also use a protein treatment once a month to strengthen your hair, but avoid using it more than that, or it will make your hair brittle. [17]
  4. To make keep your hair healthy and moisturized, rinse and wash it with cool or lukewarm water instead of hot water, which can strip moisture. [18] It’s also best to shower every other day or once every few days; washing your hair too often can make it dry and brittle.
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Expert Q&A

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  • Question
    What is the difference between full highlights and balayage?
    Kelsey Morey
    Professional Hair and Makeup Artist
    Kelsey Morey is a Professional Hair and Makeup Artist, Model and the Owner and Founder of Haus of Pretty based in Westport, Connecticut. With more than ten years of experience, she specializes in balayage, hair care, color care, and photoshoot styling. Kelsey received her training from Brio Academy of Cosmetology and John Casablancas Modeling and Career Center. She also completed her apprenticeship with Warren Tricomi luxury salons.
    Kelsey Morey
    Professional Hair and Makeup Artist
    Expert Answer
    Balayage creates a smooth color transition throughout the hair. With traditional highlights, foil is placed super close to the scalp. The heat conduction from the foil makes the hair really bright at the root, which leads to an unnatural finish as the hair grows out. Balayage doesn't require heat conduction, so the growth doesn't leave a harsh line of demarcation.
    Thanks! We're glad this was helpful.
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  • Question
    How should I care for my hair after I did a balayage with bleach?
    Christine George
    Master Hair Stylist & Colorist
    Christine George is a Master Hairstylist, Colorist, and Owner of Luxe Parlour, a premier boutique salon based in the Los Angeles, California area. Christine has over 23 years of hair styling and coloring experience. She specializes in customized haircuts, premium color services, balayage expertise, classic highlights, and color correction. She received her cosmetology degree from the Newberry School of Beauty.
    Christine George
    Master Hair Stylist & Colorist
    Expert Answer
    The best way to repair bleach-damaged hair is to use a really great restorative treatment once or twice a week. You can also use a protein treatment, but avoid doing it too often, as it can harden your hair and make it brittle.
    Thanks! We're glad this was helpful.
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    Not Helpful 2 Helpful 8
  • Question
    What if I have black hair? Will it work?
    Community Answer
    You might have to bleach a few times to get platinum blonde balayage, or you can keep it the lightish brown that it comes out to be, try it and see how it turns out.
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      Tips

      • If you want to remove some of the hair dye from your hair after you color it, try rinsing your hair with peroxide. Peroxide is alkaline and will open your hair cuticle, so you may be able to wash away some of the dye. Follow with shampoo to restore your hair's pH. [19]
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      • Try relaxed curls and loose, beachy waves to play up your sun-kissed balayage highlights.
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      • Balayage looks great on short hair and long hair and just about any natural hair color. It’s also a great style to try if you don’t want to fully commit to a fully-dyed or ombre look.
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      Things You’ll Need

      • Balayage or highlighting kit
      • Old T-shirt
      • Towel
      • Disposable plastic gloves
      • Hair ties
      • Comb
      • Shampoo and toning mask (included in highlighting kit)

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      References

      1. ↑ https://hottiehair.com/ufaqs/the-balayage-hair-guide-a-step-by-step/
      2. ↑ https://hottiehair.com/ufaqs/the-balayage-hair-guide-a-step-by-step/
      3. ↑ https://www.glamour.com/gallery/best-balayage-hair-color-ideas#4
      4. ↑ https://hottiehair.com/ufaqs/the-balayage-hair-guide-a-step-by-step/
      5. ↑ https://hottiehair.com/ufaqs/the-balayage-hair-guide-a-step-by-step/
      6. ↑ https://www.allthingshair.com/en-us/hairstyles-haircuts/balayage/balayage-hair-guide/
      7. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J72d2gmVDKA&feature=youtu.be&t=1m39s
      8. ↑ http://www.instyle.com/how-tos/how-balayage-your-own-hair-esalon
      9. ↑ http://www.instyle.com/how-tos/how-balayage-your-own-hair-esalon
      1. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J72d2gmVDKA&feature=youtu.be&t=2m1s
      2. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J72d2gmVDKA&feature=youtu.be&t=2m19s
      3. ↑ http://www.instyle.com/how-tos/how-balayage-your-own-hair-esalon
      4. ↑ Kelsey Morey. Professional Hair and Makeup Artist. Expert Interview. 11 January 2022.
      5. ↑ Kelsey Morey. Professional Hair and Makeup Artist. Expert Interview. 11 January 2022.
      6. ↑ https://www.allthingshair.com/en-us/hairstyles-haircuts/balayage/balayage-hair-guide/
      7. ↑ Christine George. Master Hair Stylist & Colorist. Expert Interview. 1 April 2020.
      8. ↑ Christine George. Master Hair Stylist & Colorist. Expert Interview. 1 April 2020.
      9. ↑ Kelsey Morey. Professional Hair and Makeup Artist. Expert Interview. 11 January 2022.
      10. ↑ Christine George. Master Hair Stylist & Colorist. Expert Interview. 1 April 2020.

      About This Article

      Article Summary X

      To balayage your hair at home, start by purchasing a highlighting kit from your local beauty supply store. Then, place a towel around your shoulders to soak up the excess dye and separate your hair into 3 sections so that it’s easier to work with. Apply the dye to 1 inch sections of your hair using your fingers or the brush from the dye kit, and make sure to alternate from 1 side of your head to the other for the most natural look. Once you’ve added all your highlights, let the dye sit for 20 to 30 minutes, then rinse with the included shampoo. For more advice from our Beauty reviewer, including how to choose the right balayage kit for your hair color, keep reading.

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