How to Install Stone Veneer

Co-authored by Alberto DeJesus

Last Updated: August 17, 2023 Approved

Installing stone veneer is a great way to enhance the interior and/or exterior of your home or any structure. This versatile and low maintenance update can be achieved with a few simple tools and little bit of know-how by almost anyone. Virtually all stone veneer is made of the same materials and the installation is all the same. Here are some steps to guide you as you learn how to install stone veneer.

Part 1

Part 1 of 3:

Prepping and Layering the Scratch Coat

Download Article

Stone veneer can be applied to any masonry surface such as concrete, existing brick, or foundation cinder block. If you're working with wood or any other non-masonry surface, you can create an appropriate surface by surrounding the non-masonry surface with a water barrier. ^{[1]
X
Research source}
2
Apply a moisture vapor barrier if you're doing an exterior application. Moisture vapor barriers usually come with a self-sealing membrane. Peel back the outer layer to expose the sticky backside of the membrane and simply stick it onto your surface. ^{[2]
X
Research source}
- Be careful about only applying the membrane where you want it. The membrane's unpeeled surface is extremely sticky; if it accidentally sticks somewhere it shouldn't, you're going to have a hell of a time trying to get it off.
- If you're working inside, you shouldn't need to set down a water vapor barrier, unless you're adding stone veneer to a wood surface, like plywood.
Advertisement
Use 1 1/2 to 2 inch (3.81 cm to 5.08 cm) nails, and space them out at 6 inch (15.24 cm) intervals.
4
Create a scratch coat with mortar. You can make mortar by mixing 2 or 3 parts washed sand with 1 part cement and adding water, according to the manufacturer's instructions. With a trowel, cover the entire surface of the lath with this mixture, about 1/2 to 3/4 inches (1.27 cm to 1.905 cm) thick. The lath should not stick out from the scratch coat. ^{[3]
X
Research source}
- Directions for mixing mortar will vary. Follow manufacturer's directions, but most of all, be consistent with whatever recipe you choose. If you decide to use 2:1 sand to cement, stick with 2:1 each time you use mortar elsewhere.
Use a metal scraper or a scrap piece of the lath material. Allow the scratch coat to set up, or cure, according to the manufacturer's instructions. Now, you are ready to apply your stone veneer.

Part 2

Part 2 of 3:

Installing the Stone

Download Article

Mix for a minimum of 5 minutes, until you've achieved the consistency of mashed potatoes. Too wet and your mortar will lose strength. Too dry and your mortar will seize up too quickly. ^{[4]
X
Research source}
2
Determine the layout of the stones. It's helpful to do a dry run and think about the layout of the stones as they will appear on the wall. Spending a little extra time configuring their placement now will save you the headache of excessive trimming later.
- If it's helpful, do the dry run on the ground instead of trying to hold the stones up against the wall. The basic arrangement of the stones should transfer.
The stones themselves should be fairly easy to shape. You will be able to hide the trimmed edges later, using grout, so don't worry if the edges aren't perfectly rounded. ^{[5]
X
Research source}
The grout adheres much better to completely clean surfaces.
If necessary, use a masonry brush to lightly moisten the stone, but do not saturate it. This will prevent the stones from drawing moisture away from the mortar, which will allow it to set up with a naturally stronger bond.
Try to keep the backbuttered mortar about 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) thick. If you happen to get any mortar on the face of the stone, wipe it away with a damp towel before it dries. ^{[6]
X
Research source}
7
Start installing the stones, beginning in the bottom corners. Turn any trimmed edges either directly up or down, away from the focal point. Press the stones into the mortar, twisting them slightly to squeeze out some of the excess and strengthen the bond. Use a trowel, joint tool, or brush to remove any excess mortar that has been forced beyond the finished joint, or onto the surface of the stone itself.
- Keep the joints consistent to achieve the most appealing result. You probably want your joints to be between 1 and 3 inches (2.5 and 7.5 cm) long.
Take period breaks; step back and prospect your work every so often. If you are installing veneer across more than one face of a wall, consider getting cornerstone pieces. Most stone veneer manufacturers make them, and they add an easy naturalness to the project.

Part 3

Part 3 of 3:

Finishing the Process

Download Article

Best results come from using a grout bag. During this step, conceal any trimmed edges. Use a striking tool to get the joints to the desired depth as the mortar stiffens.
2
Clean away any excess particles with plain water and a whisk broom. Be sure to remove any stray mortar from the face of the stone within 30 minutes — mortar will be impossible to remove after 24 hours.
- Use a paint brush to clean up the mortared joints before the mortar sets completely. ^{[7]
  X
  Research source} Do this especially if working inside, as inside stone wants a more polished look.
Sealed stone will be easier to clean and maintain, and some sealers will repel stains. Reapply the sealer periodically to maximize the advantages. be advised some sealers will change the color of the stone or create a "wet" glossy look.

Community Q&A

Search

Add New Question

Question

Is the procedure the same when using blasted rock to face a fireplace?

Community Answer

I would just get a bag of quick mix cement and "throw" it or toss it at the back drop and smooth it out or get some flat stone cut and stick them to the concrete that stuck to the backdrop. Screwing a metal sheet to the backdrop helps keep the concrete stuck to the wall. If it won't stick, just use chicken wire or something, it doesn't matter really as long as you covered it up well with concrete and you can stick rocks into it and things too if you want. Highlight it with a nice mantel piece or a mirror and plants.

Thanks! We're glad this was helpful.
Thank you for your feedback.
If wikiHow has helped you, please consider a small contribution to support us in helping more readers like you. We’re committed to providing the world with free how-to resources, and even $1 helps us in our mission. Support wikiHow
Yes No

Not Helpful 4 Helpful 1

Ask a Question

200 characters left

Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered.

Submit

Video

Tips

Be aware when applying masonry sealers -- some sealers can change the color of the natural stones or create a glossy look -- try a test patch first

Thanks
Helpful 9 Not Helpful 4
Stagger stones to avoid any continuous mortar lines in any pattern to your liking.

Thanks
Helpful 10 Not Helpful 5
Occasionally step back to view your work making sure to intermix various stone sizes and colors

Thanks
Helpful 7 Not Helpful 7

Submit a Tip

All tip submissions are carefully reviewed before being published

Name

Please provide your name and last initial

Submit

Thanks for submitting a tip for review!

Warnings

For exterior: make sure to install correct flashing to avoid excessive water penetration

Thanks
Helpful 13 Not Helpful 6
For exterior: Install all stone veneer over 40 degrees and in dry conditions.

Thanks
Helpful 5 Not Helpful 6

[1]

[2]

[3]

[4]

[5]

[6]

[7]

Log in

How to Install Stone Veneer

Steps

Prepping and Layering the Scratch Coat

Installing the Stone

Finishing the Process

Community Q&A

Video

Tips

Warnings

You Might Also Like

Expert Interview

References

About This Article

Reader Success Stories

Did this article help you?

Quizzes

You Might Also Like

Featured Articles

Trending Articles

Featured Articles

Featured Articles

Watch Articles

Trending Articles

Quizzes

Explore Categories