How to Leather Bind a Book

Co-authored by Mike Stramiello

Last Updated: December 4, 2024

Bookbinding looks intimidating, but it is actually quite easy, albeit time consuming. Leather-bound books are classic and beautiful. With some cardboard, paper, thin leather, and a few extra basic supplies, you can create a rather impressive journal, notebook, or sketchbook. Best of all, you get to control exactly what kind of paper you use, and what size the book ends up.

Part 1

Part 1 of 4:

Cutting the Paper

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1
Choose your paper, then cut it if needed. Regular paper will work for most books, but if you want something fancier, consider handmade paper, sketchbook paper, or even watercolor paper.
- Your paper needs to be the height you want your pages to be, and twice the width. If it's too long, cut it.
- You will be folding your paper in half. Decide how many pages you want, then use half that number.
2
Fold your paper in half widthwise. Run your fingernail or a boning knife along the folded edge to sharpen the crease. Now your paper should be the exact height and width you want the pages to be.
- Fold the pages one at a time.
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3
Make an even number of marks along the edge of your first sheet for the stitching. Pick one sheet to use as your guide. Using a pencil, make small marks along the folded edge where you want the stitches to be. ^{[1]
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Research source} The first and last marks should be ½ inch (1.27 centimeters) from the top and bottom. The rest of the marks should be 1 to 2 inches (2.54 to 5.08 centimeters) apart.
- Make sure that you make an even number of marks, otherwise the stitching won't work out.
Plan on using 4 to 6 pages per bundle. The more pages you cut, the bigger your bundles can be. Avoid using more than 6, however, or the book will warp.
5
Stack the papers, then extend the marks down the other folded edges. Gather all of your bundles into a stack, with the marked sheet on top. Make sure that all of the folded edges are lined up, then use a pencil to draw lines across the folded edges. ^{[2]
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- Use the marks on the first page as a guide.
Thanks to the lines you drew in the last step, each of the folded edges should now have marks on them. Unfold the bundles and flatten them on a foam pad. Use an awl to punch a hole over each mark. ^{[3]
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Part 2

Part 2 of 4:

Sewing the Pages

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1
Thread a book binding needle with a long piece of waxed thread. If you can't find any waxed thread, you can use regular thread, then run it across a piece of beeswax. A 50-inch (127-centimeter) piece of thread should be long enough for most books.
- If you can't find a book binding needle, a curved needle will also work.
Pull the thread through the bottom hole on the outside of the first bundle. When you have about 6 inches (15.24 centimeters) of thread left, move onto the next hole. Keep sewing through the holes until you come out of the top hole on the outside of the bundle again.
Slide the needle through the top hole on the next bundle. Push the bundle down the thread until its spine bumps up against the first bundle's spine. Continue sew up and down through the holes until you reach the bottom hole.
When you come out of the bottom hole on the next bundle, find that 6-inch (15.24-centimeter) tail from before. Tie the two threads together in a tight knot, then add the next bundle, just like you did the second one.
Use the needle to weave the thread in and out of the holes. When you come out of the top hole, stop, and take a look at the spine. You'll notice horizontal stitches running across the spine. Pull the needle down through the top horizontal stitch so that the thread loops around it.
Slide the next bundle onto the needle. Sew your way towards the bottom hole. Slide the needle up through the bottom horizontal stitch, then add the next bundle. Keep sewing up and down, wrapping the thread around the top/bottom stitching, and adding bundles until you reach the last one.
Wrap the thread around the closest horizontal stitch to make a loop, then slide the needle through the loop to make a knot. Do this one more time to tighten the knot. If you finished on the bottom row, tie the thread to the 6-inch (15.24-centimeter) thread from before in a tight, double knot. Cut off the remaining thread.

Part 3

Part 3 of 4:

Assembling the Spine

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If you using two vices, consider places the pages between two boards or catalogues. If you are using a flower press, make sure that the spine is sticking out past the edge of the press by about ¼ to ½ inch (0.64 to 1.27 centimeters).
Use a brush to coat the entire spine with glue, from edge-to-edge, top-to-bottom. ^{[4]
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Research source} Book binding glue will work the best, but if you can't find any, ordinary pva glue (ie: white glue or carpenter's glue) will also work. ^{[5]
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Cut a piece of ribbon that's twice the length of the spine. Place it down the center of the spine. Make sure that the bottom end of the ribbon is ½ to 1 inch (1.27 to 2.54 centimeters) from the bottom end of the spine. Coat the spine again with more glue to seal the ribbon in. ^{[6]
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The fabric needs to be 1 inch (2.54 centimeters) shorter than the spine and three times the width. Plain, cotton fabric will work the best for this. ^{[7]
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5
Glue the fabric onto the spine, then fold the side edges down. Coat the fabric with your glue, then coat the spine with more glue. Place the fabric over the spine, with ½ inch (1.27 centimeters) of space on the top and bottom. Fold the side edges of the fabric down onto the first and last page of the book. ^{[8]
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- Clamp the spine together until the glue dries.
Choose a durable paper, such as cardstock. You will be using this paper to secure the pages to the actual book. ^{[9]
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7
Glue the sheets to the side edges of fabric. Unclamp the book, then turn it so that the front is facing you. Coat the fabric on the front with glue, then press the first sheet of paper into it. Repeat this step for the back. ^{[10]
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- Clamp the spine again until it dries.

Part 4

Part 4 of 4:

Creating the Cover

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The spine needs to be the same width as the spine on the sewn bundles, and ½-inch (1.27 centimeters) taller. The front and back covers need to be the same width as the sewn bundles, and ½ inch (1.27 centimeters) taller. ^{[11]
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2
Glue the cardboard to the back of the leather. Coat the back of the leather with glue, then paint the cardboard with more glue. Press the cardboard into the glue. Make sure that the top and bottom edges of each piece are aligned, and that you have about a ¼-inch (0.64 -centimeter) gap between the spine and cover pieces. ^{[12]
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- Choose thin leather, otherwise it won't fold easily.
Use a ruler and a pen to trace a 1-inch (2.54-centimeter) boarder all around the book—this includes the covers and the spine. Cut the leather out using a metal ruler and a craft blade. ^{[13]
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Use a metal ruler and a craft blade to slice off the corners of the leather, as close to the cardboard corners as you can. This will reduce bulk when you fold and glue the leather down.
5
Glue the sewn pages into the book. Coat the front and back cardstock of your bound pages with glue. Next, apply more glue to the front and back covers of your leather—right onto the cardboard. Press the cardstock pages right into the glue. ^{[14]
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- Do not apply any glue to the spine.
6
Weigh the covers down separately. Hold the bound pages of your book straight up. Place a heavy book on top of the left cover, and another book on top of the right cover. Scoot them together so that they hold up the bound pages in the middle. Let the glue dry.
- Wipe away any glue that leaks out from under the paper first.
Remove the book weights first. Paint more glue around the edges of the cardstock and the leather. Fold the leather onto the cardstock. ^{[15]
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Research source} The leather may not stick right away; you can temporarily clamp them with clothespins or binder clips.
8
Add the end pages. Cut two sheets of pretty paper that are the same size as your pages. Coat the back of each one with glue, then paste them over the inside of each other. This will cover the folded over leather as well as the fabric strip.
- You may have to move the clips out of the way for this step.
Close the book and wipe off any excess glue with a damp cloth. Clamp all four corners of the book with a vice, or use a flower press. You can also stack several heavy books on top. Let the book dry, then remove the clamps. ^{[16]
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Question

What other material aside from leather can I use for bookbinding?

Mike Stramiello
Leatherworker
Mike Stramiello is a Leatherworker based in Wilmington, North Carolina. He founded Beast Belts and Knives, a Leather Products business in 2020. He initially got involved in the field when he started blacksmithing knives. He couldn’t find the kinds of leather sheaths he wanted for his knives in his area, so he started leather smithing. After years of honing his craft, he started selling his custom-made wares and consistently has a wait list for his products. In addition to the items that are regularly available on his website, Mike builds one-off creations for his website and holds product auctions on his Instagram page. Beast Belts and Knives custom belts, rugs, bags, weapon sheaths and holsters, and other special order items. Mike takes pride in his handmade luxury custom leather work and bladesmithing creations.

Mike Stramiello

Leatherworker

Expert Answer

You can also use traditional leathers, like from calf or kangaroo. Cloth is a classic choice, and bookbinding fabrics, like cotton or linen, are flexible and durable. Buckram, a coated cloth, is especially popular because it’s sturdy and resists wear and tear. It’s often used for library books because it holds up well over time. Faux leather is a modern alternative if you like the look of leather without using animal products. It’s more affordable, easier to work with, and available in a wide range of colors and textures. Wood materials can also be used for covers, especially if you’re going for a rustic or vintage look. While not as flexible as leather or cloth, they add a unique charm and provide excellent durability. No matter what material you choose, you’ll want to focus on how it works with the spine and structure of your book. Stretching, folding, and securing the material are key steps. Tools like a bone folder can help press corners and create sharp, clean edges. Also, consider the glue or adhesive you’ll use and remember that acid-free options are best to avoid damaging the pages over time.

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What if I don't have a flower press or a vice?

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You can use 2 or more heavy books. Put the papers on a flat surface and pile heavy books on top, just don't put so many on that the tower becomes unstable.

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Is there a popular brand of book-binding glue? Where can I purchase some?

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Elmer's Craft Bond is a good one, or Jade 403 PVA glue. Some people will tell you that all PVA glues are acid-free, but this is false, so be very careful when shopping; make sure the glue is explicitly stated to be acid-free. Methylcellulose glue is another good choice. You can purchase some from the Hollanders website - Google "Hollanders bookbinding supplies". They also carry more esoteric options like wheat paste and rice starch glue, if you want to get really specialized.

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Tips

Score the cardboard first before you glue anything down onto it. This will help make the bond stronger. ^{[17]
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You can use these techniques to glue a paperback book onto cardboard, and then bind it with leather. If the cover is shiny, sand it first. ^{[18]
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Use a paper guillotine or a metal ruler and a craft blade to cut your paper.

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Things You'll Need

Paper
Pencil
Ruler
Vices or flower press
Waxed thread (or thread and beeswax)
Book binding needle or curved needle
Book binding glue or pva glue
Cardboard
Heavy books
Scissors

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How to Leather Bind a Book

Steps

Cutting the Paper

Sewing the Pages

Assembling the Spine

Creating the Cover

Expert Q&A

Tips

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