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All tatting
designs contain rings and picots. The ring forms the basis of the design. The picots are used for decoration and for joining. These directions are described in detail to help to make the steps clear in your mind. Once you have mastered this, you will be ready to read the same directions as they would appear in a tatting pattern. This tutorial includes the abbreviations for tatting terms to assist the beginner.
Steps
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Be aware that the working stitch always comes between the thumb and forefinger. In figures 12, 13, and 14, the fingers should come where the arrow points in the illustration. The drawings are made in this manner (with the fingers away from the working stitch) so that all the steps are clear.
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Start the first ring. Make four double stitches (ds).Advertisement
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Make the first half of a double stitch (ds). However, as you slide it into position, stop about 1 ⁄ 4 inch (0.6 cm) from the preceding double stitch (ds).
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Complete the double stitch (ds).
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Draw the entire stitch close to the first four stitches. The little loop formed from the space left between the stitches is a picot (p).
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Make four more double stitches (ds).
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Note that what was just created is written "1 picot (p) and 5 double stitches (ds)". A picot refers only to the loop and does not include the double stitch which fastens the loop.
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Make another picot and five double stitches (see previous step).
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Make a picot and four double stitches.
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Hold the stitches securely between thumb and forefinger of the left hand. Draw the shuttle thread tight so that the first and last stitches meet, forming a ring.
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Wind the thread around the left hand in position for another ring.
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Make 4 double stitches 1/4 of an inch away from the ring just made.
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Insert the pointed end of the shuttle through the last picot of the previous ring and catch the thread encircling the left hand.
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Pull the thread through until there is a loop large enough to insert the shuttle.
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Pull the shuttle through the loop and draw the shuttle thread tight.
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Slowly raise the middle finger of the left hand to draw up the loop. This joins the new ring to the old one and counts as the first half of the next double stitch.
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Complete the double stitch.
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Repeat steps 6 to 10 under the first ring (previous section). Continue in this manner for each succeeding ring, repeating all of the steps in this section.
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Community Q&A
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QuestionWhere do I pull to tighten the second ring down? I keep ending up with a large loop of thread I can't get rid of.Holly PacierCommunity AnswerGrab your work by the last stitch you made, and try not to pinch it too tight. If you are unable to advance the thread any further and you still have slack, gently work the thread back out to widen the ring and check your stitches for mistakes, and your thread for knots. Sometimes, a ring will not close because the thread was twisted as you worked, which would cause it to kink up as you tightened the ring. Just keep working the thread slowly into the ring, loosening kinks as you find them. You may have to back and forth a few times, but keep at it.
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QuestionWhat is a split ring?Holly PacierCommunity AnswerA split ring is an advanced tatting technique used for creating smooth central rings in some doilies and for hiding thread ends in certain patterns. It involves using either a second shuttle, or simply a long thread end that to make reversed double stitches on the first shuttle thread. The result is a teardrop shaped ring with two working thread ends instead of one.
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Tips
- Joining the thread - when a new thread is required, make a square knot close to the base of the last ring or chain but do not cut off the ends, for the strain of the work may loosen the knot. If you make a knot in the thread, cut it off and tie the new thread close to the last ring. Knots prevent the ring from being drawn up, for they will not pass through the double stitches. Cut off the loose ends later.Thanks
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Things You'll Need
- Tatting shuttle
- Tatting thread
References
- Reichl, Miriam B., editor (1952), Needlecraft for the Home , New York: The Homemaker's Encyclopedia, Inc. - Book in public domain. Copyright not renewed. Original source of article.
- See also Thérèse de Dillmont, Encyclopedia of Needlework , public domain resource (source of introduction illustration).
About This Article
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