The Best Ways to Propagate Cactus from Cuttings, Offsets, Pads & Grafting

PDF download Download Article
Grow new cacti from an existing plant with our helpful guide
PDF download Download Article

If you want to grow more of your favorite cactus, propagation is the perfect way to make an exact copy of your plant. Cacti easily regrow from cuttings, offsets, and pads, so propagating them is as easy as removing a section of the old cactus and replanting it. You may also grow cactuses from grafting 2 species together or germinating new seeds. No matter what type of cactus you have, we’ve got everything you’ll need to know to help your cacti get established in their new pots.

Things You Should Know

  • Cut a piece of the cactus stalk with a knife, or remove a pad or offset from the main stalk during the spring or summer. Let the cut end dry out for 2–3 days.
  • Plant the cutting, pad, or offset in a pot with drainage holes filled with cactus potting mix . Firm up the potting mix around the base of the cactus.
  • Keep your cactus in a spot that gets 6 hours of indirect sunlight a day. Water the soil only when it dries out so your cactus establishes new roots within 4–6 weeks.
Method 1
Method 1 of 4:

Taking Cuttings

PDF download Download Article
  1. Cut off a piece of cactus at a 45-degree angle with a serrated knife . Wait until the spring and summer months to propagate your cacti, or else the roots may not establish. Put on a pair of thick gardening gloves to hold onto the cactus. Make your cut anywhere along the cactus stem at a 45-degree angle. [1]
    • Taking cuttings works best on tall columnar cacti.
    • Cacti propagate best when nighttime temperatures stay above 60 °F (16 °C).
    • If you’re taking cuttings from multiple cacti, disinfect your knife after each plant with a solution that’s 1 part bleach and 9 parts water to prevent the spread of bacteria.
  2. Lay the cutting sideways in a tray so the cut portion is exposed to the air. Leave the cutting alone in a dry, shady place and let the bottom dry out, which may take 1–2 days, or up to several weeks. Feel the bottom of the cutting to make sure it’s dry to the touch before you plant it. [2]
    • If you plant a fresh cutting without letting it dry out first, then it’s more susceptible to developing rot and dying.
    Advertisement
  3. Dip the cutting in rooting hormone . Rooting hormone helps a plant develop a strong root system so it establishes in the soil easier. Dip the callused end of the cactus cutting into the rooting hormone powder or solution just before you plant them. [3]
    • Many cacti easily take root without using hormones, but using it helps promote healthy root growth even more.
  4. Push the bottom of the cutting into a pot filled with perlite and compost . Use a 1 US gal (3.8 L) pot that has drainage holes so it doesn’t hold water. Poke a hole in the growing medium with your finger that’s large enough to fit the bottom of your cutting. Set the callused end of the cutting into the hole so about a third of it is buried. Fill in the growing medium around the cutting so it doesn’t shift or fall over.
    • If you notice the cutting leaning or tipping over, bury it slightly deeper so it stands up on its own.
    • Use a 50/50 mix of perlite and compost for the best result. Alternatively, use a cactus potting mix that’s specifically made so it doesn’t hold too much water.
  5. When you first plant the cutting into the pot, wet the soil with a watering can until you see moisture coming out from the drainage holes. After that, feel the surface of the soil to see if it’s dry to the touch. If it still feels damp, leave it alone until it dries out. Then use a spray bottle filled with clean water and wet the soil until it’s slightly wet to help establish the roots . [4]
    • Use purified or distilled water if you can because tap water may contain chemicals that impact your plant’s growth.
  6. Put the pot in a brightly-lit area, such as a patio, greenhouse, or south-facing window sill where it doesn’t get direct sunlight. Leave the pot undisturbed while the cutting takes root. [5]
    • Some cacti species grow better in partially shaded areas, so check the light requirements for the specific species you’re growing.
  7. Continue caring for the cactus cutting and check if there are any new growths sprouting from it. If there are, then the cactus has developed strong and healthy roots. If your cactus still hasn’t produced growths, then continue keeping the cactus in light for 6 hours each day and misting the soil when it dries out. [6]
    • The time it takes for your cactus to root depends on the specific species you’re growing.
    8. Advertisement
Method 2
Method 2 of 4:

Propagating Pads & Offsets

PDF download Download Article
  1. During the spring or summer, look for healthy offsets growing around the base of your cactus or for any large healthy pads growing off of the main stalk. Pinch the offset or pad with a pair of tongs to separate it from the cactus. If the offset or pad doesn’t easily separate from the main plant, then use a serrated knife to cut through where it attaches to the main stalk. [7]
    • If you can’t get a good grip with a pair of tongs, put on a pair of gardening gloves and twist the pad or offset off by hand.
  2. Lay the pad or offset in a dry, shaded area so the exposed section has time to form a callus. Let the piece you removed from your cactus sit for about 2–3 days and check if the end hardened over. Once it feels dry and hard to the touch, the offset or pad is ready to plant. [8]
    • Planting the cactus before it calluses over could cause the root system to rot.
  3. Choose a 1 US gal (3.8 L) pot that has drainage holes in the bottom, and fill it with an equal mix of perlite and compost . Poke a hole in the soil, and stick the bottom third of the offset or pad into it. Firm up the soil around the newly propagated cactus so it can establish roots.
    • While you may dip the end of the offset or pad into a rooting hormone before you plant it, cacti easily establish roots without it.
  4. Use a watering can to wet the soil initially until you see it come out of the pot’s drainage holes. After that, let the soil dry out completely in between waterings so the plant doesn’t become waterlogged. If the soil feels dry, mist it with a spray bottle or water it lightly with a watering can. [9]
    • Avoid letting water pool on the surface of the soil because that could drown your cactus or cause it to develop root rot.
  5. Find a spot with dappled shade, like a covered patio or a south-facing window sill. Keep your cactus in a bright place while it’s growing so it has a chance to establish new roots and form new growths. [10]
    • You’ll typically notice new growths on your cactus within 1–2 months of propagating it.
    6. Advertisement
Method 3
Method 3 of 4:

Grafting

PDF download Download Article
  1. Wait until the spring or summer to graft cacti. Choose a healthy cactus that doesn’t have any diseases or blemishes on the stalk. Hold the cactus with a pair of tongs and carefully slice horizontally through the stalk with a serrated knife . Be sure to leave at least 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) of the stalk sticking up from the soil, or else you may stunt its growth later on.
    • You can also hold the cactus while wearing a pair of gardening gloves so you don’t poke yourself.
  2. Select the cactus you want to propagate, and locate a healthy, green section that doesn’t have any disease or damage. Measure down at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) down from the top of the cactus and slice horizontally through the stalk with a serrated knife. The piece you just cut will be the scion, or the part of the cactus that you’re attaching onto the other stalk. [11]
    • You can graft any type of cacti to another.
    • If you’re grafting multiple cacti, disinfect the knife blade with a 10% bleach solution in between each plant so you don’t spread any diseases.
  3. Set the scion on top of the stalk so the light green rings on the cut ends line up. Cut 2 pieces of twine that are long enough to wrap around the top of the scion and underneath the bottom of the pot. Tie one of the pieces of twine around the scion so it’s held tightly against the stalk, but not so tight that it cuts into the plant. Then, secure the second piece of twine over the scion so it crosses over the first piece. [12]
    • Be careful that the scion doesn’t move or shift while you’re tying it, or else the rings may not line up anymore.
  4. Place the cactus pot on a south-facing window sill so it gets indirect sunlight throughout the day. If you don’t have a south-facing window, you can also keep the cactus in a shady area in your yard or on a patio. Be careful not to disturb the cactus after grafting the pieces together so they don’t come apart. [13]
    • Keep the cactus indoors if there’s any risk of frost or snow because it could cause the cactus to die.
  5. Stick your finger in the soil to see if it feels dry 1–2 in (2.5–5.1 cm) below the surface. If it still feels damp, leave the pot alone for now. If the soil feels dry, fill a watering can with fresh, clean water and pour it directly into the soil until it comes out of the pot’s drainage holes. [14]
    • Cacti are prone to overwatering, so avoid letting water pool on the surface to prevent them from rotting.
  6. After about a month, the 2 pieces of cactus will grow together into a single stalk. Be careful as you untie the twine since the cactus may still be fragile and could easily get damaged. Take off both pieces and continue caring for the cactus as normal now that the pieces have joined together.
    • Grafted cacti will continue to create pads and offsets that you can propagate again later.
    7. Advertisement
Method 4
Method 4 of 4:

Germinating Seeds

PDF download Download Article
  1. Look for the grey seed pods or colorful fruit on the top of the cactus, and wait until the end of the growing season when they’re fully ripe. Pinch off the seed pods or fruit and pull them apart to reveal the seeds inside. Collect as many seeds as you can on a sheet of paper towel and dry them off. [15]
    • If the seed pods or fruit are hard to reach, use a pair of tongs to pull them off of the cactus.
    • If you don’t want to collect fresh seeds from a cactus, you can also buy a cactus seed mix .
  2. Fill a planting tray with equal parts perlite and peat moss . Choose a planting tray that’s about 4 inches (10 cm) deep and has drainage holes so the growing medium doesn’t get waterlogged. Mix together perlite and peat moss until they’re thoroughly combined and spread it evenly in the tray. Leave about 1 ⁄ 2 inch (1.3 cm) between the surface of the growing medium and the lip of the tray. [16]
  3. Spread the seeds in the tray and cover them with 1 ⁄ 4  in (0.64 cm) of sand . Spread as many seeds in the tray as you can for the best chance of them germinating. Sprinkle the seeds on top of the perlite and peat moss mixture so they’re evenly distributed. Then, add a 1 ⁄ 4  in (0.64 cm) layer of coarse gardening sand to protect the seeds. [17]
  4. Tear off a sheet of plastic wrap that’s about 2 inches (5.1 cm) wider and longer than the growing tray. Cover the tray with the plastic wrap so 1 inch (2.5 cm) extends past each side. Press the plastic wrap tightly against the tray so it stays in place. [18]
    • The plastic wrap helps keep the growing medium humid so the seeds are more likely to germinate.
  5. Find a plastic container that’s about 2 inches (5.1 cm) longer on each side than the planting tray and has the same depth. Put the tray in the middle of the container. Fill the bottom of the container with clean water until it reaches halfway up the sides of the tray. [19]
    • The water will absorb through the drainage holes in the bottom of the tray to provide the seeds with moisture.
    • Avoid overfilling the container, or else the seeds could get waterlogged or wash out of the growing medium.
  6. Carefully carry the tray and set it in a spot that gets sunlight throughout the day, such as a patio or south-facing window sill. [20] Make sure the temperatures stay over 65 °F (18 °C), or else the seeds may not grow properly. Leave the tray alone throughout the germination process. [21]
    • You do not need to add more water to the tray since it will absorb naturally through the drainage holes in the bottom.
  7. Check the tray weekly to see if any cactus seedlings have sprouted from the growing mediums. Once you notice the seedlings form, remove the plastic wrap to reduce the humidity and prevent them from developing rot. Keep the seedlings in the tray for now until they become more established. [22]
    • If the growing medium feels dry to the touch and the container is out of water, lightly mist the medium with water.
  8. to pots when they’re 1 ⁄ 2 –1 in (1.3–2.5 cm). Check on your seedlings every week or two to see how much they’ve grown. If they’re at least 1 ⁄ 2 inch (1.3 cm) in height or diameter, then carefully dig up the roots and move the seedling to an individual pot with drainage holes that contains cactus potting mix. [23]
    • It typically takes 4–6 weeks for a cactus to grow large enough to transplant.
    9. Advertisement

Expert Q&A

Search
Add New Question
  • Question
    Where should I put a cactus outdoors?
    Chai Saechao
    Plant Specialist
    Chai Saechao is the Founder and Owner of Plant Therapy, an indoor-plant store founded in 2018 based in San Francisco, California. As a self-described plant doctor, he believes in the therapeutic power of plants, hoping to keep sharing his love of plants with anyone willing to listen and learn.
    Chai Saechao
    Plant Specialist
    Expert Answer
    Cacti and succulents tend to do well outside in the shade. So basically any area that gets plenty of indirect sunlight is going to be okay. I don't recommend putting them on a balcony though, since they can easily be knocked over and they'll get too much sun.
    Thanks! We're glad this was helpful.
    Thank you for your feedback.
    If wikiHow has helped you, please consider a small contribution to support us in helping more readers like you. We’re committed to providing the world with free how-to resources, and even $1 helps us in our mission. Support wikiHow
    Yes No
    Not Helpful 4 Helpful 8
Ask a Question
200 characters left
Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered.
Submit
      Advertisement

      Video

      Tips

      • There are many species of cacti, so the soil, water, and light requirements may vary depending on what kind you have. [24]
        Thanks
        Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0
      Submit a Tip
      All tip submissions are carefully reviewed before being published
      Name
      Please provide your name and last initial
      Submit
      Thanks for submitting a tip for review!
      Advertisement

      Warnings

      • Be careful when handling cacti since you could get injured by the spines. Always wear gardening gloves or use a pair of tongs to hold onto the cactus. [25]
        Thanks
        Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0
      • Avoid planting cuttings while they’re still moist on the bottom since they’re more likely to develop rot and kill the plant. [26]
        Thanks
        Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0
      Advertisement

      Things You’ll Need

      Taking Cuttings

      Propagating Pads and Offsets

      Grafting

      Germinating Seeds

      You Might Also Like

      How to
      Care for a Christmas Cactus
      How to
      Prune a Christmas Cactus
      How to
      Prune Kalanchoe
      How to
      Revive a Dying Cactus
      How to
      Grow a Cactus
      How to
      Get Cactus Needles Out of Skin, Clothes, & Hair
      How to
      Propagate Succulents from Leaves
      Are Cassava and Yucca the Same Thing? Your Questions, Answered.
      How to
      Grow Epiphyllum Cactus
      How to
      Propagate Christmas Cactus
      Why Is My Aloe Plant Drooping? 11 Plant Care Solutions for an Aloe Plant That Won't Stand Up
      How to
      Grow Cactus Indoors
      How to
      Root Cactus
      How to
      Grow Kalanchoe
      Advertisement

      References

      1. ↑ https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/general-pruning-techniques
      2. ↑ https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/thanksgiving-christmas-cacti/
      3. ↑ https://extension.umn.edu/houseplants/holiday-cacti#pruning-and-growing-cuttings-1431366
      4. ↑ https://extension.umn.edu/houseplants/holiday-cacti#pruning-and-growing-cuttings-1431366
      5. ↑ https://extension.wvu.edu/lawn-gardening-pests/indoor-plants/succulents-101
      6. ↑ https://hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/faq/how-can-i-propagate-christmas-cactus
      7. ↑ https://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/growing-succulents-indoors
      8. ↑ https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1970&context=extensionhist
      9. ↑ https://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/growing-succulents-indoors
      1. ↑ https://extension.arizona.edu/sites/extension.arizona.edu/files/pubs/az1483.pdf
      2. ↑ https://youtu.be/wA_MNXG4Uuk?t=120
      3. ↑ https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1970&context=extensionhist
      4. ↑ https://youtu.be/wA_MNXG4Uuk?t=162
      5. ↑ https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1970&context=extensionhist
      6. ↑ https://youtu.be/Eq2a12nblsw?t=104
      7. ↑ https://aggie-hort.tamu.edu/databases/cactus/growingcactus/
      8. ↑ https://extension.arizona.edu/sites/extension.arizona.edu/files/pubs/az1483.pdf
      9. ↑ https://aggie-hort.tamu.edu/databases/cactus/growingcactus/
      10. ↑ https://extension.arizona.edu/sites/extension.arizona.edu/files/pubs/az1483.pdf
      11. ↑ Chai Saechao. Plant Specialist. Expert Interview. 20 February 2019.
      12. ↑ https://extension.arizona.edu/sites/extension.arizona.edu/files/pubs/az1483.pdf
      13. ↑ https://aggie-hort.tamu.edu/databases/cactus/growingcactus/
      14. ↑ https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/types/cacti-succulents/houseplants/growing-guide
      15. ↑ https://extension.umn.edu/houseplants/cacti-and-succulents#growing-from-cuttings-1421917
      16. ↑ https://extension.arizona.edu/sites/extension.arizona.edu/files/pubs/az1483.pdf
      17. ↑ https://ucanr.edu/sites/mgslo/newsletters/Propagating_and_Caring_for_Cactus28082.htm

      About This Article

      In other languages
      Thanks to all authors for creating a page that has been read 133,474 times.
      If you buy through links on our site, we may earn a commission .

      Did this article help you?

      Advertisement