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Q&A for How to Line a Dress
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QuestionHow do you attach the lining?Kpoene Kofi-Bruce is a tailor, couture wedding gown designer, and the Creative Director of Mignonette Bridal and Ette the Wedding Tailor in Chicago, Illinois. With nearly two decades of experience as a wedding gown designer, small business owner, and vintage sewing enthusiast, Kpoene specializes in wedding gown design and the social history of wedding dresses. She received a BA in Creative Writing from Middlebury College and studied the business of fashion at the Fashion Institute of Technology. She is also a graduate of the Goldman Sachs 10KSB program and the Chicago Fashion Incubator and has written about wedding fashion for Jezebel, Catalyst, the Sun Times, and XO Jane.You can attach the lining layers at the neckline or, if you prefer, you can use a facing.
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QuestionShould the lining be cut to the same shape as the dress?Kpoene Kofi-Bruce is a tailor, couture wedding gown designer, and the Creative Director of Mignonette Bridal and Ette the Wedding Tailor in Chicago, Illinois. With nearly two decades of experience as a wedding gown designer, small business owner, and vintage sewing enthusiast, Kpoene specializes in wedding gown design and the social history of wedding dresses. She received a BA in Creative Writing from Middlebury College and studied the business of fashion at the Fashion Institute of Technology. She is also a graduate of the Goldman Sachs 10KSB program and the Chicago Fashion Incubator and has written about wedding fashion for Jezebel, Catalyst, the Sun Times, and XO Jane.If you're lining a dress for modesty, you should cut your lining layers at the same time that you cut your top layers. If you're lining for structure, you might be cutting layers with a slightly different shape from the top layers—these layers may include interfacing, boning, etc. I recommend starting with a commercial pattern or a sewing blog that has specific advice for the type of garment you're making.
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QuestionHow do I line a shift-style dress?T. ChinsenTop AnswererThe article explains the basics of lining any dress. If the dress is pre-made, you can use the dress as a template for the lining pieces. Follow the direction in the article if the dress is being made from scratch.
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QuestionHow do I line the sleeves?Community AnswerYour dress has sleeves and your lining has sleeves. With right sides together, sew the raw neck edges to each other and also the raw sleeve edges to each other. Leave the actual dress sleeve a bit longer than the lining sleeve so that when you turn everything right side out, the sleeve has a self facing for the first inch or so before the lining starts. The last thing to do is sew around the zipper and use French tacks along the bottom of the lining.
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QuestionThe bodice of my dress has pleats at the neck edge. I thought that I would line it; do I line it first and then do the pleats, or do I make both pieces separate and join together?T. ChinsenTop AnswererThe lining part of the dress does not need the pleats. Your conclusion is correct in making both pieces then joining them together. Making pleats in the lining will add bulk to the garment as well as when sewing bodice and lining together.
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QuestionWhen lining the unfinished dress, when do I add the zipper?Community AnswerAttach the zipper when you stitch together the lining and outer layer to save yourself time and stitches.
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QuestionI had a dress made with lining. The top has embroidery; main fabric is puckering. I ironed with steam. Any advice?T. ChinsenTop AnswererThe material behind the embroidery should have had stabilizer put on, or lightweight interfacing. Without support to the embroidery, the fabric will pucker due to the difference in the two materials. Steam will not remove the puckering. Sizing/starch can reduce the puckering, but may not completely flatten it out.
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QuestionWhy does wedding dress lining always have wave-like ripples on the front?T. ChinsenTop AnswererThe appearance is due to the type of fabric used. Sheer fabrics can diffract (bend) light, creating a visual appearance of waves on the fabric.
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