Q&A for How to Make a Simple Homemade Incubator for Chicks

With dry hatching, you do not add water until the very end. The incubation period will be the same 21 days. However, the next day counts as day one, and the original day counts as day zero. It is important to know that this method doesn't work in every single environment; for example, in Florida, where the humidity is higher, dry-hatching isn't something that works, while it would be easier in Oregon because it's a drier climate. Dry hatching is really climate-dependent, and the incubation process is kind of trial-and-error.

Yes, it is important to keep the chicks consistently warm.

Leave the chicks in the incubator one hour after they hatch or until they're all dry. Then you'll need to move them to a brooder. The brooder is where the chicks will spend the first weeks of their lives. It can be a simple cardboard box but it must contain a heat lamp, bedding, chick food and water.

Any insulated box will do. Coolers are inexpensive, and work great.

To measure the temperature, you'll need to purchase a temperature gauge. The temperature gauge should know the temperature and humidity. Temperature gauges can be found in warehouse stores or feed stores.

They can be handled whenever, but it's best to handle them when they're an hour old or dry. You'll need to handle them after one hour, in order to move them to a brooder.

It depends on how big you want the incubator to be. You may need to increase the number of bulbs if you have use a large styrofoam container.

At least 1 hour, otherwise they are too weak to be moved; if moved too soon, they will die.

Any insulated container. Coolers work great. I'm using an old mini-fridge with the door removed.

A 40-watt bulb will generate too much heat and can get up to about 140 degrees. To reduce the heat, add a dimmer switch, or just get the right bulb in the first place.

The temperature should be set at 95.5ºF/35.2ºC. The humidity should be set at 40 - 50 percent. Before the four days of the chicks' due hatching time, set the humidity up to 60 - 70 percent.

The eggs do not need to be wrapped, because they won't be exposed to the humidity, and they may be warmer than the temperature in the incubator. You should add a bowl of water for the humidity level. The fan is a great addition, but it is to circulate the temperature evenly throughout the incubator and avoid hot/cold spots.

Incubators can be found for sale at farming goods stores, such as Rural King and Tractor Supply. If you don't have one near you, they can also be purchased online.

You can buy them at your local feed store. Find some feed stores on Google and you should be able to purchase your choice of fertilized eggs. (You can also choose what kind of chickens you want.)

You need to maintain the temperature and humidity. Using a dimmer switch works well for the temperature, and a bowl of water works great for the humidity. Monitor both, preferably with a digital temperature/hergometer combo.

Not all eggs will hatch. The odds of hatching are affected by the fertility of the eggs, temperature, humidity and regular turning of the eggs. You should hope for 50-80% success rate.

That depends on how big the incubator is. For a small one, say around 3-4. For a big one, 20-60. And for a huge one, a farmer can put up to 60 but then it's hard finding a big enough Styrofoam cooler.

It's best to take her to the vet. It can be a number of issues, including an obstruction in the throat or air sac mites.

You should use a thermometer to measure the heat and a hergometer to measure the humidity. You should be able to find both measurements on one unit. Digital is preferred and you can probably find one at Lowe's for around $20.

If the incubators heat is too much, poke some holes. If it is less, the bulb has too low of a voltage.

Water is your humidity source. You must maintain a certain level of humidity for the eggs to hatch.

A Styrofoam cooler, glass frame chicken mesh, 25-watt bulb, temperature and humidity gauge, cup of water and a sponge.

You can buy special chick food at a pet food store or wherever you got your chicks from.

It depends on how often you can and want to. You could turn the eggs every morning, at lunch, and every late evening.

You could use a double plastic sheet. Just make sure it's taped or glued to the inside and outside so there are no gaps.

Poke holes in the box if the temperature is too high, but if it cools down, put insulation tape over the holes.

Anything that allows you to maintain consistent temperature and humidity and allows for air ventilation can be used as an incubator. Hobbyists often turn wine coolers or mini fridges into incubators. Your challenge with the materials you have described will be maintaining consistent settings, as there's not much insulation going on. But if it's in a room without drafts and away from windows (due to sunlight), it might work.

Full time -- 24 hours a day. The eggs need full-time heat; without it, they may die.

To reduce the temperature, punch holes in the sides of the cooler. If it gets too low after you do that, tape up some of the holes with duct tape. For the humidity, sponge up some of the water to reduce it and squeeze out more water to increase it.

This is in Fahrenheit, but you can easily convert it to Celsius if need be.