Q&A for How to Spray Paint Plastic

Give the surface of the plastic a hard sand with 120-grit sandpaper. That will give it a little texture that the primer and paint can grab onto.

Yes! Spray one side of the pot before spinning it around and spraying the other side.

Cleaning it only does part of the job, you also need to sand it to get rid of the coating on it from the factory.

You do not want to put lacquer over enamel, but vice versa is OK. With painting plastics, look into a adhesion promoter as a base coat.

PP is difficult to paint. The prep is the most important. Rustoleum 2x, Krylon Fusion, or automotive paints work well. Many people heat the plastic to draw out release agents used in manufacturing. Also, an adhesion promoter can help as a base coat.

Usually start at 220 for plastic, then finish off with something a little more like 280 or 320 as a finishing sand.

Chrome paint is typically used for metal surfaces, so it may not stick to plastic properly. For the best results, clean the surface well before painting with a degreasing cleaner. Once dry, sand the surface with a fine-grit sandpaper. Wipe the surface clean with tack cloth to remove dust, and then apply the paint.

If you are going to move the leather object and use it regularly, I advise you don't, just to be safe.

There are special paints formulated for vinyl and fabrics that you can use to paint faux leather, leather, nylon, and other materials. These paints create a flexible layer that won't peel or flake off. Clean the fabric surface well and let it dry completely before brushing on the paint.

You could try spray paint -- check labels to find one that works with plastic surfaces.

Yes, but you will need 4 spray cans 60 grit sand paper and 150 grit for fine sanding.

Even though some spray paints say they are both primer and color coat all in one, I've always found that priming a surface first has yielded the best color coverage with a uniform appearance that holds up better. Also, if it's metal, primer helps to give better adhesion for the top coats of paint.

Masking tape could be your new best friend. If big enough/possible, try taping off areas of the face you don't want painted. If the toy is small, like a Barbie doll, and you're trying to paint those eyes, try using a small paintbrush. You can squeeze the spray paint can onto a paper plate/bowl, dip the small paintbrush into the liquid, and paint onto the toy that way.

It depends on how much you're hands on with it. The more it's handled or used, then the more coats you should apply. If it is something that isn't "used" it only needs one coat if that. If it's "used" daily like a table top, do at least 3 coats.

You could do this but there are some potential difficulties. If you use dark, opaque paint, it may not allow light through afterwards. Also the heat from the lamp could be a hazard when it warms up volatile paint. Be sure to check that the paint being used is safe when heated and of a color light enough to allow the light to come through still.

Yes, you can. Look for spray paint that is specifically labeled "Appliance Paint". They're available everywhere spray paint is sold and in several colors. They're made more durable, to withstand regular use.

You could try using paint pens. They work really well. Sometimes I spray a top coat over my designs, but if you're not handling it and it's not outside you don't need to. The pens adhere to plastic wonderfully, the paint is permanent and dries quickly.

Yes. Give it a light sanding first, and make sure the button caps aren't close by so you don't accidentally spray them too!

You can but the length of time that paint will stay on the surface is minimal due to the flexible properties of the kayak. If this is to be done properly, an extremely malleable paint would be your best option.