Q&A for How to Waterproof Fabric

Yes, there is a water-proofing spray that you can use. If you aren't a fan of sprays, try an iron-on thermo-adhesive vinyl to make your fabric waterproof.

Aluminum ions react with long chain acids of the detergent to form aluminum 'soap,' This is not water-soluble and thus makes the fabric water-repelling.

Many drop cloths can be purchased with a waterproof sealant already coated on one or both sides. The coating comes off after a few washes, but that would be the case with all other methods of coating such cloths, and this may save you the extra work.

If you are using linseed oil, you must mix is 50/50 with mineral spirits and apply it just as the soybean method, or it will remain an oily rag and not dry. The fact is, the only difference between using turpentine and soybean oil, and using mineral spirits and linseed oil, is how long your fabric will last; while turpentine destroys fabric and natural materials, mineral spirits does almost no harm to any natural cloth whatsoever.

Nothing lasts forever, but of the methods used in this article, the vinyl would last the longest, until it loses its adhesive bond, or wears through from abrasion. Silicon sprays will launder off, but when used on a hat or jacket that's seldom washed, it usually lasts a season.

Yes, a piece of fabric treated with linseed oil and mineral spirits will be only slightly more stiff than it was before treatment.

Definitely the linseed oil method, only you want to mix the linseed oil 50/50 with mineral spirits in a large container and soak your cloth in it (wearing gloves) and then hang your cloth in a well-ventilated area to dry for two days to two weeks, depending on the fabric's thickness.

Sprays and seam sealers would be preferred. Avoid turpentine, as some think the odor is repulsive.

The beeswax method will prevent your fabric from fraying or frizzing as long as the material is thoroughly saturated.

Check hardware stores in your area for a mildew-resistant spray, such as Concrobium Mold Control.

You can use waterproof sprays, but you may need to wash the fabric with a detergent that removes the previous waterproofing first. I had been using waterproof sprays on my cycling gear for years and found that the sprays were becoming less effective. When I mentioned my problem at a camping supply store, the clerk explained that the old layers of spray prevented the new applications from soaking in properly to the material. I was able to buy a bottle of the detergent and waterproofing spray at the same time.

Wash in hot water and detergent allow to dry thoroughly, then spray with a water repellent and follow directions on the water-repellent product for best results. However, if they are really old, it might be easier to replace with new ones.

Absolutely! Just be certain the sneakers are cleaned and thoroughly dry after washing, then follow directions on silicone spray thoroughly.

Once the linseed oil is truly dry -- be aware that that can take as much as a few weeks -- then no, it is not particularly flammable. For what it is worth, "boiled" linseed oil dries much faster but usually contains residual chemicals that will irritate and/or cause a rash if worn next to the skin.

if you hand wash it gently in lukewarm water and a small bit of mild detergent, then there should be no problem. You will have to re-do the beeswax treatment on your item every few seasons or so. If you throw your item in the washing machine with a full shot of laundry detergent then yes, the beeswax treatment will be adversely affected and re-treatment will need to be done sooner and more often.