How to Revive a Dying Cactus

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Easy ways to bring rotting, wilted, & dried out cacti back to life
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If you notice that your cactus has discolored, dry, or drooping leaves and segments, it may be a sign that something is bothering it and causing it to die. Luckily, there are several immediate things you can check and fix to revive your cactus, like adjusting its water, light, and temperature. In this article, we spoke with plant specialists Lindsey Swett and Andi Xoch to learn how to save dying cacti and give them proper long-term care. Read on to find out more!

Saving a Dying Cactus

If your cactus is wrinkled or wilting, it’s not getting enough water. So, give it a deep drink of water. If your cactus is drooping or has brown, yellow, or black spots, it’s receiving too much water. Cut away the discolored areas and let the soil dry out. Only water your cactus when the soil is completely dry.

Section 1 of 3:

Providing Immediate Care for a Dying Cactus

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  1. If parts of the cactus appear shrunken, wrinkled, or wilted (drooping or appearing limp), it probably needs more water. If the soil is fully dry, water it thoroughly . Keep pouring water into the soil until it is fully soaked and the excess water starts to drain out the bottom of the pot. [1]
    • To test if the soil is dry, stick your finger about 2 inches (5 cm) deep into the soil. If the soil feels dry, it’s time to water your cactus.
    • Lift your cactus’ pot to see if it needs water. Xoch says another sign that your plant is underwatered is that the “pot is going to be very light.”
    • Cacti prefer a deep, thorough drink that gets the soil saturated instead of shallow sprinkles of water. Shallow waterings can cause the soil to dry and harden, preventing your cactus from getting the water it needs. It can also cause cacti to grow crooked.
  2. If your cactus is getting too much water, it may appear droopy and soft. Swett says any brown, yellow, or black segments on your cactus, especially when they’re near the base, can be a sign that your cactus is rotting due to overwatering. Use a sharp, sterilized knife or pair of shears to cut away any rotting spots. Then, let the soil dry completely before watering it again.
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  3. If your cactus’ stems are narrowing, growing pointy, or getting stringy, it might be a sign that it has a condition called etiolation. [3] Insufficient sunlight is usually the cause of etiolation, so find a spot in your home or outside that gets 6 to 12 hours of sunlight each day. A southern-facing or western-facing window is a great choice for cacti. [4]
    • Your cactus may also appear pale if it isn’t getting enough sun.
    • If you don’t have a sufficiently sunny spot, place a grow light 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30 cm) above your cactus and keep it on for 14 to 16 hours each day. [5]
  4. Swett says your cactus might be getting too much light if parts of the sun-facing side are “turning yellow” or brownish. Simply move it to a spot where it gets less direct sunlight and more shade. For instance, place it in an eastern-facing window, which gets gentle indirect sunlight.
    • Wait to see how the cactus responds to its new shadier location. If the yellowed segments don’t improve in a few weeks, Swett suggests cutting them off to the healthy, green areas.
  5. Treat pests with rubbing alcohol or insecticidal soap . The main pests that damage cacti are mealybugs and spider mites. Mealybugs are tiny, powdery white, and appear in clusters. Spider mites are red, also quite small, and spin sheet-like webs between the cactus’s spines. To remove both of these pests, apply rubbing alcohol directly to the infested areas with a cotton swab. Or, spray the infected areas with insecticidal soap. [6]
    • Both mealybugs and spider mites suck sap out of the cactus, causing it to look discolored, wilted, and damaged. They can also cause your cactus to grow more slowly.
  6. Most cacti are warm-weather plants that don’t tolerate frost or freezing temperatures well. When they go dormant in the winter, they prefer temperatures around 45 to 55° F (7-13° C). [7] If your cactus is exposed to freezing temperatures below this range, move it inside or cover it with a sheet or blanket. [8]
    • In the winter, move your cactus next to a window or cool room, like a basement or garage, so it feels the cooler temperatures. This helps encourage it to bloom and grow more in the spring.
    • Just make sure to keep your cactus out of the way of drafts—drafty windows and doors can expose your plant to too much cold.
    • Cacti prefer temperatures around 65 to 85° F (18-29° C) during the growing season in the spring and summer.
    • Unless you have a cold-hardy cactus, be careful not to let the room temperature drop below freezing, since most cacti can’t tolerate frost.
  7. If the skin of your cactus is dusty or dirty, it may not be able to photosynthesize properly. This can cause it to wilt and start to die. Simply dampen a soft cloth or sponge with water and wipe down the cactus’ stems. Or, rinse your plant under your sink or shower or with a hose. [9]
    • Wear gloves and work carefully to avoid being poked by the cactus’ spines.
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Section 2 of 3:

Caring for Your Cactus’ Long-Term Health

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  1. Most cacti are native to the desert, so they don’t like sitting in water. Make sure you plant your cactus in a pot that has drainage holes and fill it with well-draining soil. For instance, use a cactus soil mix or make your own mix out of 1 part garden soil , 1 part coarse sand , and 1 part peat . [10]
    • Plant your cactus in a clay pot as well—their heaviness helps keep bulkier cacti from tipping over. They also allow the soil to breathe and dry out, which helps prevent the roots from rotting. [11]
    • If you’re growing cacti in the ground, ensure the spot where you plant them doesn’t pool water.
  2. Test the moisture level by pressing your finger 2 inches (5 cm) deep into the soil. If it is completely dry, water the cactus’ soil fully, waiting until the water starts to drain out the hole in the bottom of the pot. [12]
    • Alternatively, water your cactus from the roots. Fill a tray or saucer with a few inches of water and place the pot inside. Then, remove the pot once the soil feels moist at the top. [13]
  3. Cacti need different amounts of water depending on whether they’re growing or dormant. During the growing season of March to September, water them every 1 to 2 weeks. During the dormant season of October to February, water only once per month, at the most. [14]
    • In both seasons, only water your cactus when the soil is completely dry.
    • Watering too much during the dormant season is the main cause of complications with cacti. [15]
    • In general, plants need less water during their dormant season (fall/winter) and more during their growing season (spring/summer). Swett says “if you're diminishing the light, you want to diminish the volume of water” and if you’re “increasing the light, you're going to want to increase the volume of water.” In other words, “you definitely want to cut back in the winter and increase in the summer.”
  4. Most cacti need lots of sun. In the summer, keep your cactus in a sunny window or outdoors—just be careful not to let it get too much rain. In the winter, place your cactus in a southern- or western-facing window, which has the brightest and longest sun exposure. [16]
    • When moving your cactus to a sunnier spot, start it in a shady area at first. Then, gradually move it to the sunnier area to avoid sunburn.
  5. To grow big and healthy, cacti need regular feeding during the growing season (March to September). About once per month, apply a water-soluble or granular fertilizer that’s lower in nitrogen, such as a 5-10-5 or 10-30-20 fertilizer . [17]
    • Too much nitrogen gives the cactus a flabby texture that can impede its growth. [18]
    • Never fertilize a cactus during the dormant season (October to February), as this can harm the plant and hinder growth. [19]
    • Follow the manufacturer’s directions on the package to apply the fertilizer properly.
    • Most fertilizers are labeled with a ratio that indicates how much nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium they contain (in the form: N-Ph.-Po.)
  6. You’ll know it’s time to transplant your cactus to a larger pot when it becomes too top-heavy for the pot, when it grows within 1 inch (2.5 cm) of the edge, or when you see roots at the bottom of the pot. Simply wear a pair of gloves and carefully lift the cactus out of the pot. Then, plant it in a pot that’s 1 inch (2.5 cm) larger than the old one using well-draining soil. [20]
    • Replant the cactus at the same level in the soil as it was in the original pot.
    • In general, cacti need to be repotted every 1 to 2 years. Aim to repot your cactus in the early spring before it starts putting out new growth.
    • Warning : Wait to water newly potted cacti 1 week after repotting them. The roots can get damaged during the repotting process, so waiting to water them helps prevent the roots from getting further damaged. [21]
  7. A common result of over-watering is root rot, which happens when roots sit for too long in poorly drained, moist soil. When you repot your cactus, gently brush away the soil from the roots. Then, inspect them for any soft and mushy black roots. Simply use a pair of sterilized scissors or shears to cut away the rotted roots. [22]
    • Cut the roots up to the part of the root that is still living. Healthy, living roots are a whitish-tan color and plump-looking.
    • Remove any dried-up roots that appear dead, too.
    • Avoid root rot by making sure the pot has a hole in the bottom for drainage and that it never sits in excess water that collects in a saucer underneath the pot.
    • To help ensure your cactus thrives, let it sit for about 10 days out of its soil before repotting it. This can give it time to form calluses around the damaged or cut areas. Simply place it on a piece of paper out of the sun but away from cool temperatures.
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Section 3 of 3:

Why is my cactus drooping and dying?

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  1. While cacti require less water than other plants, they still need regular, deep waterings to grow healthy. If your plant isn’t getting enough water, it might start to wilt, shrivel, and die. On the other hand, if it receives too much water, the stems might droop and the roots may rot. [23]
  2. Cacti love the sun and need 6 to 12 hours of bright sun each day. If they don’t get enough sunlight, they might grow spindly and bend towards the light. These plants can also scorch under too much direct light, leading to yellow or brown spots. [24]
  3. Cacti are susceptible to some pests, like mealy bugs, spider mites, and scale insects. When your plant is infested with pests, it may wilt, shrivel, or grow discolored. Luckily, most pests are easy to kill with rubbing alcohol or insecticidal soap . [25]
  4. Most species of cacti aren’t acclimated to freezing temperatures. If your cactus is exposed to temperatures below 40° F (4° C), it might start to droop, shrivel, and look discolored. If it stays in freezing temperatures, it may die. [26]
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  • Question
    How often do you have to water a cactus?
    Maggie Moran
    Home & Garden Specialist
    Maggie Moran is a Professional Gardener in Pennsylvania.
    Maggie Moran
    Home & Garden Specialist
    Expert Answer
    You water them just once a week. Give the plant a good soaking until water comes out of the drain holes in the bottom of the pot.
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  • Question
    Why is my cactus getting soft?
    Maggie Moran
    Home & Garden Specialist
    Maggie Moran is a Professional Gardener in Pennsylvania.
    Maggie Moran
    Home & Garden Specialist
    Expert Answer
    This is mainly due to a lack of water drainage in the pot. Make sure the pot has drainage holes and empty the tray underneath the pot if water collects in it.
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  • Question
    Why do my cactus keep dying?
    Maggie Moran
    Home & Garden Specialist
    Maggie Moran is a Professional Gardener in Pennsylvania.
    Maggie Moran
    Home & Garden Specialist
    Expert Answer
    The most common reason is due to overwatering. Try watering less frequently.
    Thanks! We're glad this was helpful.
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      References

      1. ↑ https://extension.umn.edu/houseplants/cacti-and-succulents
      2. ↑ http://ccenassau.org/resources/cacti-and-other-succulents
      3. ↑ https://extension.umaine.edu/publications/5059e/
      4. ↑ https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/indoor-cacti/
      5. ↑ https://extension.umn.edu/houseplants/cacti-and-succulents
      6. ↑ http://ccenassau.org/resources/cacti-and-other-succulents
      7. ↑ https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/indoor-cacti/
      8. ↑ https://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/how-protect-plants-frost-and-freeze
      9. ↑ https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/indoor-plants-cleaning-fertilizing-containers-light-requirements
      1. ↑ http://ccenassau.org/resources/cacti-and-other-succulents
      2. ↑ https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/indoor-plants-cleaning-fertilizing-containers-light-requirements/
      3. ↑ https://chemung.cce.cornell.edu/resources/care-of-non-hardy-cacti-and-succulents
      4. ↑ https://extension.illinois.edu/blogs/ilriverhort/2018-01-28-how-water-houseplants
      5. ↑ https://aggie-hort.tamu.edu/databases/cactus/growingcactus/
      6. ↑ http://chemung.cce.cornell.edu/resources/care-of-non-hardy-cacti-and-succulents
      7. ↑ http://ccenassau.org/resources/cacti-and-other-succulents
      8. ↑ https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/indoor-cacti/
      9. ↑ http://ccenassau.org/resources/cacti-and-other-succulents
      10. ↑ http://ccenassau.org/resources/cacti-and-other-succulents
      11. ↑ https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/indoor-cacti/
      12. ↑ https://chemung.cce.cornell.edu/resources/care-of-non-hardy-cacti-and-succulents
      13. ↑ https://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=C1240&title=repotting-basics
      14. ↑ https://extension.umn.edu/houseplants/cacti-and-succulents
      15. ↑ https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/indoor-cacti/
      16. ↑ http://ccenassau.org/resources/cacti-and-other-succulents
      17. ↑ https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/indoor-cacti/

      About This Article

      Article Summary X

      The right way to save a dying cactus depends on its symptoms. If your cactus is shrunken, wrinkled, or wilting, it likely needs more water. Just thoroughly water the cactus until the excess water drains out of the bottom of the pot. Alternatively, if your cactus has segments that are turning brown or black, it could be rotting from overwatering. Check if the soil feels soaked—if it does, remove the cactus from the pot and repot it with fresh, dry soil. If the soil isn’t soaked, let the cactus dry out completely before watering it again, and water it less frequently in the future. Either way, use clean gardening shears or scissors to cut away any rotting segments. If your cactus has pointy tops or stringy stems, that could be a sign that it’s not getting enough sunlight. Move it to a southern- or western-facing window so it gets more light each day. On the other hand, if your cactus is developing yellow or brown spots on the side that’s facing the sun, it could be getting too much direct light. Move it to a shadier spot with indirect sunlight and see if that helps. It’s always a good idea to check your cactus for pests as well whenever it starts to go downhill. Look for mealybugs and spider mites in particular. If you find insects, apply rubbing alcohol to the infested segments with a cotton swab to kill them. Keep reading to learn more about long-term care of your cactus!

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