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Expert guidance on getting the most out of your beard
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If you have dreams of going full Grizzly Adams but it’s not going so hot, don’t worry. Most guys can grow a full beard—it just takes a lot longer than most people think. However, it is true that a sizable number of men just aren’t able to grow a giant beard, even if they have no problems filling out a mustache or goatee. But how do you know if you’re just a slow grower or you can’t grow a beard at all? We spoke to professional barber Marlon Rivas and licensed cosmetologist Mark LoBiondo to help you figure it out.

Signs You Can’t Grow a Beard

  • If the men in your family struggle to grow a full beard, it’s a sign you probably don’t have great genetics for a full beard.
  • If you don’t have thick chest, back, or leg hair, the odds are low that you can grow a thick beard.
  • Even if you can’t grow a full beard in (or after) puberty, it doesn’t mean you can’t grow one later. Most men don’t reach full beard-growing age until 30.
Section 1 of 5:

Signs You’ll Struggle to Grow a Full Beard

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  1. The quality of your facial hairs individually are a good indicator of what kind of beard you can expect to grow. If you grow gruff five o’clock shadow followed by thick and itchy beard hairs, you can probably go the full lumberjack route with the mountain man beard. If your bear hairs are kind of whispy, a fuller beard may be difficult for you. [1]
  2. It doesn’t automatically mean you can’t grow a full beard if your facial hair grows slowly, but it may take you a really long time. Rivas says that it’s not uncommon for some men to need up to a full year to grow a “full” beard. That said, it may take so much time for you to grow a beard that it’s functionally the same as not being able to grow one.
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  3. It’s normal for an 18- or 21-year-old guy to have a patchy or thin beard, but if that doesn’t change by 30 or so, it may be a sign there’s no full beard on the horizon. It’s not like there’s some line you cross as you get age where you wake up the next day and can suddenly grow a full beard. For some guys, it just takes time and age to develop the hair follicles needed for a giant beard. [2]
  4. If your dad and grandparents also couldn’t grow beards, the odds are very high you’ll struggle on this front, too. Your family history isn’t the end-all be-all when it comes to whether you can grow a beard or not, but it is a very good indicator of what you’re likely to end up with in the facial hair department. [3]
  5. If you aren’t a naturally hairy guy, you probably aren’t going to grow a super thick beard. Body hair growth tends to correlate relatively closely with facial hair growth, so if your chest, back, and pits don’t have a lot of hair, you’re unlikely to grow thick beards quickly. [4]
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Section 2 of 5:

Reasons Some Men Struggle to Grow Beards

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  1. Rivas points out that “there are a lot of genetic factors impacting your ability to grow a beard.” At the end of the day, your facial hair abilities are like your height, skin tone, and eye color—there are things you can do to try and improve the way your beard looks, but a lot of it is just the genetic card you’re dealt. [5]
    • Some ethnic groups seem to have a much harder time growing full beards. Growing facial hair out has no advantage biologically speaking, so it makes sense that some cultures wouldn’t prioritize men with beards as partners. [6]
  2. Most men start being able to grow facial hair with puberty but don’t reach their peak beard-growing days until they’re in their late 20s or early 30s. If you’ve surpassed this era in your life but you still struggle with growing a full beard, it may just not be in the cards. [7]
  3. Your body’s hormone levels are a huge influence on whether you can grow a beard or not. A lot of people say it’s just testosterone impacting your facial hair, but it’s actually androgens as a group. These are the hormones that give men reproductive abilities and tell cells how to differentiate, so if your androgen levels are atypical it can prevent facial hair. [8]
    • This isn’t to say that being unable to grow facial hair means you aren’t able to reproduce (or anything like that). Hormones are complicated, so don’t read too much into an inability to grow a beard.
    • It’s unlikely that anything is wrong with you, but if you are worried about your beardlessness being a sign of a hormone imbalance, it doesn’t hurt to see your doctor to have your hormone levels tested!
  4. Certain medical issues can prevent you from growing a beard. Alopecia is the most common, but there are plenty of other conditions and diseases that may minimize your body’s ability to grow or retain facial hair. [9]
    • If you used to be able to grow facial hair but you’re suddenly struggling to maintain a beard (or grow one at all), see your doctor.
  5. Certain hair types just aren’t well-suited to full, bushy beards. Straight and wavy hair lends itself to naturally “thinner” looking beards, while curly-haired folks tend to have an easy time growing thick, voluminous beards. You can’t change your hair texture, but you can get around some of the visual impact by styling your beard .
  6. Are you super stressed out all of the time? Are you not sleeping at least 7-8 hours a night? All of your behaviors influence your body’s ability to generate hair. There’s truth to the adage that people lose hair when they’re stressed or under the weather, so take care of yourself and you’ll improve your ability to grow a beard. [10]
    • Now is the perfect time to stop smoking, curb your alcohol consumption, exercise regularly, and get plenty of sleep. Your future beard will thank you! [11]
    • Eating healthy and having a good skincare routine can’t hurt, although the links between diet and skincare products and facial hair growth aren’t proven.
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Section 3 of 5:

Encouraging Beard Growth (Even if You’re at a Disadvantage)

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  1. LoBiondo says, “Don’t get it trimmed or shaped until it grows longer than you want it. If you plan on growing it long enough to the point it will be below your chin I do not recommend a clean line on the bottom.” If you keep trimming it, you’re not going to develop the dynamic look of a full beard. Rivas recommends letting a beard grow naturally for at least 3 weeks before cutting anything.
  2. LoBiondo recommends shampooing and conditioning your beard “once per week” to keep the hairs healthy and happy. He points out that if you shampoo too often, your hair can dry out, so don’t overdo it.
  3. LoBiondo says you can skip the beard oil until you’re happy with the length. Beard oil will help keep the hair healthy and promote growth, so don’t skimp on the oil.
  4. Minoxidil (commonly called Rogaine) is a proven way to help encourage hair growth. While it’s typically used to treat male-pattern baldness, it may help encourage beard growth. Schedule an appointment with your primary care doctor to discuss if it’s right for you. [12]
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Section 4 of 5:

Beard Myths

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  1. This popular myth probably got started because everyone noticed the guys with thicker beards were shaving all the time (imagine that!). In reality, there’s no relationship between hair growth and how often you shave. [13]
    • There’s also no relationship between how you shave and hair growth. A lot of the traditional straight razor guys like to tout this one, but there’s no evidence it’s true. If you want to use an electric shaver, go for it.
  2. Unfortunately, some guys just aren’t able to grow beards and no amount of vitamins, hormone treatments, or Rogaine will change that. If someone is trying to sell you a product promising beard growth, it’s unlikely to be the solution you need.
  3. Beauty is certainly in the eye of the beholder, and there are definitely people out there who prefer bearded men, but that’s not the most likely scenario. Data suggests men with lots of facial hair are more likely to be perceived to be less attractive by potential dating partners. [14]
    • Men with facial hair are also assumed to be more aggressive and less socially mature than their bare-faced counterparts. [15]
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Section 5 of 5:

Expert Tips on Making Your Beard Appear Fuller

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  1. Rivas says, “Don't get discouraged because hair grows in various stages. And it's a four-week cycle for hair growth. So as some hairs grow back after a clean shave, they'll grow back immediately, then you'll get that five o'clock shadow. And then, that shadow will grow in within a week. You'll notice some patchy spots. Just let it be! It’ll keep growing in.”
  2. You know those Viking-style behemoths you see on bikers and lumberjacks? Those take forever to grow. In fact, Rivas says it can take up to a year just to get that length for a lot of guys, so patience is key!
    • Some genetically-gifted beard growers have no problem growing a thick biker beard in a few weeks, but it takes most men closer to a year, believe it or not.
  3. Your beard will look a lot better if you have a professional touch it up. Rivas says that after “at least 1 month,” you should see a pro. “Give your barber something to do with it. You’ll be stunned by how much fuller a beard looks.”
  4. A lot of guys just assume facial hair isn’t for them when they grow a beard and it feels thin, itchy, and patchy. Rivas says you just need beard oil: “If you grow your hair out and you have medium-sized hair and you dry it and it's all poofy and unruly, it'll be the same with your beard […] so adding the beard oil gives the beard a little bit of a fuller, uniform look.”
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