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Veneer is very thin sheets of hardwood sliced from logs for use mainly in the furniture industry. Veneer allows a craftsman to finish a woodworking project with a beautiful exotic wood that might not otherwise be affordable or attainable. Since veneer is real wood, it is stained in much the same manner as a solid piece of wood, but there are differences in technique between the 2 that should be noted.

  1. You have a choice of oil based, water based and gel stains. Each one has slightly different qualities that make it ideal for one wood but not another.
    • An example of this is that some trees, such as teak and rosewood, have more natural oil in them than other woods such as oak or hickory. The oily wood will not take a water based stain as well as one of the less oily woods, so this has to be considered when choosing stains.
    • The basic steps for staining veneer are the same but setting and waiting times are different for each of the stains, gel, oil and water.
  2. Most mill sawn veneer and backed veneer will not need sanding. Mill sawn veneer is very thin, 1/42 inch (0.60 mm) and will not stand up to heavy sanding.
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  3. Stop and check frequently to avoid damaging the veneer. [1]
  4. Test for correct color on a piece of scrap veneer or in an inconspicuous spot.
  5. Allow the conditioner to stand for 5 to 15 minutes, and wipe off with a clean rag. Do not wait more than 2 hours before applying gel stain.
  6. Allow it to set for 3 minutes and wipe off stain with a clean rag, again following the grain of the wood. [2]
  7. If the color is not deep enough, apply additional coats in the same manner as the first until you have the desired look.
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Method 1
Method 1 of 2:

Oil Stain Veneer

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  1. Wait 5 to 15 minutes to allow stain to penetrate the veneer, and then wipe off excess stain with a clean cloth, again following the grain of the wood. [3]
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Method 2
Method 2 of 2:

Water Stain Veneer

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  1. Conditioner is usually necessary when using a water based stain. Wipe off excess with a clean cloth.
  2. Allow stain to penetrate for no more than 3 minutes before wiping off excess with clean cloth that is slightly dampened with the stain, again following the grain of the wood.
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Community Q&A

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  • Question
    If I want to stain something darker, do I go through the same steps as the bare veneer?
    Community Answer
    Nope, just add the stain to darken it up. You'd only start from scratch if you wanted to go lighter, which you don't because it's veneer.
  • Question
    I want to use veneer tape on the edge. Do I put it on before or after I stain my shelf?
    Community Answer
    You put the edge banding on before you stain, then you stain the shelf and the edge at the same time. This makes for a more uniform color.
  • Question
    How do I remove old wax from a walnut veneer table?
    Community Answer
    You can use a torch or heat gun, but that might release the veneer glue. Any stripper from Home Depot or Lowes would work, but make sure you rub the surface with ScotchBrite and lacquer thinner. Then, scrub the surface with a new ScotchBrite and Naptha. If the Naptha doesn't flash off (evaporate) immediately, you must repeat above steps.
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      Things You'll Need

      • Paint brush
      • Foam brush
      • Paint pad
      • Sandpaper
      • Stain
      • Wood conditioner
      • Clean cloths
      • Wood sealer

      Expert Interview

      Thanks for reading our article! If you’d like to learn more about wood finishes and treatments, check out our in-depth interview with Eric Shipe .

      About This Article

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      • Amanda Neal

        Mar 8, 2017

        "Really good advice on refurbishing an old table and giving it a new lease on life."
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