What Is Selvedge Denim?

If you’re into vintage clothing, you’ve probably heard of selvedge denim. It’s a type of denim made with traditional looms that naturally finish and secure the edges, or “self edges,” of the denim, making for a more durable and sturdy fabric. We’ll tell you everything you need to know about selvedge denim, including how it’s made, if it’s worth the money (and why it costs so much), its history, and more.

Things You Should Know

Selvedge denim is a type of jean woven on traditional shuttle looms (rather than modern looms) and is often associated with higher quality due to its traditional production methods.
Spot selvedge denim by turning up the cuff of your jeans. Selvedge denim will have a neat edge with a colored line of thread along the vertical seam.
Selvedge denim is said to be sturdier than other denim, last longer, fade more elegantly, and shape to your body more comfortably.

Section 1 of 7:

What is selvedge denim?

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Selvedge denim is denim with naturally finished edges. To make selvedge denim, a shuttle loom passes a “shuttle,” or a sort of loaded bobbin, through parallel threads to weave the denim fabric. As it goes back and forth, it crosses back on itself to secure any loose threads, creating a “self edge,” or edges that are naturally bound and finished by the weaving process itself. ^{[1]
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- The shuttle weaves the “weft,” or the lighter, whitish fabric, through the stationary “shed,” or the hallmark blue fabric, to create a panel of denim.
- Modern, or standard denim, on the other hand, is made on a projectile loom, which weaves individual threads together, leaving loose threads at the ends. These are then secured in place with an additional overlock stitch.

Section 2 of 7:

How can I spot selvedge denim?

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Selvedge denim has a distinctive colored stripe under the hem. Turn up the hem of your jeans and look for the vertical seam where the fabric panels are joined. If your jeans are selvedge denim, spotting this will be easy—this white seam will be narrow and marked with a colored stripe that’s usually red or orange. ^{[2]
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- This is the finished edge of the fabric—the self edge itself.

Section 3 of 7:

Is selvedge denim better than other kinds of denim?

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Selvedge denim is more durable, and more expensive, than other denim. Because the edges of selvedge denim are naturally woven and secured into the fabric itself, selvedge denim is often much more durable than other types. It’s also said to fade more naturally and elegantly, and to conform to your body over time, making for a more personalized and comfortable fit. ^{[3]
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- Many types of denim made today are made with “projectile looms,” which produce the material one weft thread at a time, leaving loose threads that are fastened after the fabric panel is made. ^{[4]
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Section 4 of 7:

Why is selvedge denim more expensive?

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Unlike modern, standard denim, selvedge denim is woven on specialty looms that are often old, and which take much more human involvement to operate. They also produce narrower lengths of fabric, meaning more labor is needed to produce enough fabric for a single pair of jeans. ^{[5]
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Research source} All that labor doesn’t come cheap!

Section 5 of 7:

How is selvedge denim different from “raw” denim?

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Raw denim is denim that hasn’t been washed by the producer. Most selvedge denim is raw, which just means the denim hasn’t been washed before you wear it, and is said to make the denim more durable and form-fitting. ^{[6]
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Research source} It’s valued for the graceful way it ages and fades, and holds the shape of your body the longer you wear it. ^{[7]
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- Raw denim can be washed as usual, but be prepared for it to shrink 1-2 sizes after that first wash.

Section 6 of 7:

What’s the history of selvedge denim?

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Selvedge denim was the original denim manufacturing method. The history of selvedge is the history of denim. When denim was first being manufactured in America by producers like Levi Strauss back in the 19th century, they used now-traditional shuttle looms to do so, which gave the denim that iconic selvedge we covet today. ^{[8]
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- Cone Mills Denim in Greensboro, North Carolina, which opened in 1905, was the epicenter of America’s denim production, and was where many producers filed patents for denim.
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American selvedge began to disappear as denim demand soared. Traditional methods of weaving denim are neither cheap nor quick, so as denim became wildly popular after WWII, producers turned to other weaving methods to meet demand, and selvedge denim began to disappear. ^{[9]
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- The Cone Mills denim factory shuttered in 2017, marking an end to 112 years of selvedge production and, in many ways, the end of an era.
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Japanese producers kept selvedge alive. While selvedge production dropped off in America, a number of Japanese producers procured their own shuttle looms and began to make their own selvedge denim. Now, Japan is one of the largest producers of selvedge denim, and Japanese producers have their own processes and hallmarks, and are known for their meticulous eye for detail and quality. ^{[10]
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- In comparison to American selvedge, Japanese selvedge is somewhat rougher and thicker, and is famous for often being hand-dyed with indigo, a costly and labor-intensive process.
- Some popular Japanese producers include Kurabo, Kuroki, Kaihara, and Toyoshima, among others.

Section 7 of 7:

Selvedge Denim Buying Guide

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Budget brands If money’s tight, but you still want that signature quality and durability of selvedge, Uniqlo’s a top pick. The Unbranded Brand also makes quality selvedge, which is made with many of the same materials as designer brands, but priced much lower due to remote manufacturing. Other budget brands include:
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High-end brands You get what you pay for, and that’s true of selvedge denim, too. If you’re a little more experienced with selvedge and know what you want, and what you like, then you might spring for something a little more pricey, which tends to last even longer. Some choice brands include:
- A.P.C.
- &Sons
- Kurabo
- Nudie

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“Selvedge” is the American spelling, while “selvage” is the British spelling. Both are acceptable. ^{[11]
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What Is Selvedge Denim?

Things You Should Know

Steps

What is selvedge denim?

How can I spot selvedge denim?

Is selvedge denim better than other kinds of denim?

Why is selvedge denim more expensive?

How is selvedge denim different from “raw” denim?

What’s the history of selvedge denim?

Selvedge Denim Buying Guide

Expert Q&A

Tips

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