How to Build a Gable Roof

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The gable roof is one of the most popular roof designs due to its attractive symmetrical shape, efficiency at shedding water, and option for attic space . Building a gabled roof requires basic carpentry tools and skills, but as long as you make precise cuts and measurements, you’ll be able to make a roof for any simple structure.

Part 1
Part 1 of 3:

Framing the Gable Ends

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  1. Use 8-penny nails to attach the first 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) board to the wall studs. Nail the first boards on top of your wall where you plan to build your roof. When you nail in the second boards, offset the seams of the upper and lower layers by at least 24 in (61 cm).
    • Top plates cannot be less than 2 in (5.1 cm) thick.
    • The top plates need to be at least as wide as your studs. If your studs are wider than 4 in (10 cm), use matching-sized boards as your top plates.
  2. Ceiling joists span between parallel walls for added structural support. Measure 24 in (61 cm) from the ends of one of your top plate and mark each measurement with a pencil. Use construction nails to attach 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) to the top plates so they’re on center with your measurements. Make sure the edges are flush with the outside of the top plates. [1]
    • Make your measurements along both walls to ensure your boards will line up.
    • On center means the middle of each joist will be on your measurement. This creates even spacing between your boards.
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  3. Determine the pitch you want for your roof. Roof pitch or slope is measured in a vertical to horizontal ratio. Most gable roofs have a slope between 3–12 in (7.6–30.5 cm) vertical rise for every 12 in (30 cm) horizontally. [2]
    • Steeper roofs require more materials to build. [3]
  4. After determining your slope, find the length of your rafters using the Pythagorean Theorem . Hold a framing square so the measurements of your slope line up along the top of your 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards. Make a line with your pencil so you know the angle you need to cut using a handsaw or circular saw. [4]
    • Make all of your rafters at the same time so they’re ready to use.
    • If you want an overhang, add extra length to one side of your rafter.
  5. Measure about 7 ⁄ 8 inch (22 mm) from the end of your rafter using your framing square. Line up your framing square again to make a triangle with the mark. Cut the small triangle out with a hand saw or circular saw. [5]
    • If you added an overhang, make your seat cut where your rafter would have ended without one.
  6. Have a friend help you hold your rafter so the seat cut sits flat in the corner. Measure from the highest point of the rafter to the bottom of your top plate to determine how long you need to make your supports. Cut a support and line it up with the edge of the rafter. Use construction nails to secure it to the outside of the top plates. Place another vertical support 2 in (5.1 cm) apart from the first. [6]
    • Build supports on each gabled side of your roof.
  7. Use hand clamps to secure the rafters to each support so they hold in place. Make sure the seat cut lays flush with the top plates. [7]
  8. Place the hurricane clips so one side is flush with the rafter and the bottom is flush with the top plates. Use 1 1 ⁄ 2  in (3.8 cm) nails through the holes in the hurricane clips to secure them in place. Use 2 hurricane clips for each of your 4 end rafters. [8]
    • A hurricane clip is a slightly misleading term, because it doesn’t really clip onto anything. Typically, it is a metal strap that gives you a strong connection between the roof system and the walls.
    • To make this connection even stronger, you can use a double hurricane clip instead of a single one.
    • Hurricane clips can be purchased at your local hardware store.
    • You can also toenail the wood by driving the nail in at an angle through the rafter into the top plates.
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Part 2
Part 2 of 3:

Adding a Ridge Board and Rafters

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  1. Purchase the straightest board that you can find that spans the entire length of your roof. If you can’t find one board that’s long enough, use multiple. Make sure the seams between boards meet between a set of rafters. The ridge board will form the peak at the top of your roof. [9]
  2. Line up the top of the ridge board between the supports with the tops of the rafters. Make sure the ridge board sits level so your roof is straight. Use your hammer and nail the rafter in at an angle from the opposite side. Use 3 nails per rafter so they are completely secured. Repeat the process for every other end rafter. [10]
    • Have a friend help support the ridge board while you’re nailing it in place.
  3. Find the ceiling joists closest to the middle of your structure. Attach your rafter to one side of the ceiling joist using construction nails, then hammer nails from the ridge board into the rafter. Repeat the process on the other side so the rafters line up with one another. [11]
    • The center rafters help distribute the weight of the ridge board so it doesn’t slouch or bend.
  4. Use construction nails to attach the rest of the rafters to the joists and ridge board. Continually check with a level to make sure your roof is straight. [12]
    • Stay consistent with which side of the ceiling joist your attach your rafters. If you don’t, your roof won’t be supported as well.
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Part 3
Part 3 of 3:

Installing Shingles

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  1. Use 1 ⁄ 2  in (1.3 cm) plywood to cover the entire surface of your roof. Place a piece of the plywood on the bottom corner of your roof, making sure the edges are on a rafter beam. Use construction nails 6 in (15 cm) apart to secure the plywood around the outer perimeter and along each support. [13]
    • Offset the seams between the plywood by 24 in (61 cm).
    • Never get on top of your roof if you don’t feel comfortable working on it. Hire a professional instead.
  2. Use 30 lb (14 kg) felt paper to help protect the wood from condensation. Lay the paper flat across the roof’s surface and pound in a construction nail every 24 in (61 cm). When you need to add another piece of paper, overlap the edges by 2 in (5.1 cm). [14]
    • Felt paper can be purchased at your local home repair or construction store.
  3. Secure your shingles starting from the bottom. Line your shingles up with the bottom of your roof. Use 3 nails per shingle sheet to secure them to the roof. Work your way up towards the peak of your roof. Make sure the seams between shingles never line up so you have the best protection against water and condensation. [15]
    • If a full shingle sheet doesn’t fit on the end of one of your rows, use a utility knife to cut it to the correct size.
  4. Cut the individual shingles from your sheet and place them over the peak of your roof. Attach them to the ridge board using construction nails. Make sure to overlap the shingles by 5 in (13 cm) so they’re watertight. [16]
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  • Question
    What is the height of a 1:5 pitch from the gable top plate to the top of the ridge board?
    Donagan
    Top Answerer
    The height of a 1:5 pitch is one-fifth of the horizontal distance from ridge to plate.
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  • Question
    How thick should plywood be for gable roofs?
    Community Answer
    It should be the same thickness as any other part of the roof. A 1/2 inch is recommended with a 1/8" spacing between plywoods.
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  • Question
    Should I use wall wrap on a Dutch gable?
    Community Answer
    Yes. The gable end on a Dutch gable would be the same material as the walls. A good rule of thumb is to think of which material is the top layer. Roofing material or siding? In this case it would be siding, so go with the what the manufacturer of the siding recommends.
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      Warnings

      • Check to see if you need a building permit before working on any home improvement.
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        Helpful 1 Not Helpful 0
      • If you don’t feel comfortable climbing on your roof, hire a professional to do the work for you.
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      • Contact a professional contractor or carpenter if you want to make sure everything is done correctly.
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      Things You’ll Need

      • 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards
      • 2 in × 6 in (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) board
      • Hammer
      • Level
      • 8-penny nails
      • Framing square
      • Circular saw
      • Hand clamps
      • Hurricane clips
      • Roof sheathing
      • Aluminum drip edge
      • Felt paper
      • Shingles
      • Utility knife
      • Construction nails

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      References

      1. ↑ https://youtu.be/iKyD4vR_6-M?t=48s
      2. ↑ https://www.techsupport.weyerhaeuser.com/hc/en-us/articles/207291947-Ridge-Beam-vs-Ridge-Board
      3. ↑ https://www.homebuilding.co.uk/getting-the-right-pitch/
      4. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jlAj-pLksMg&t=1346s
      5. ↑ https://youtu.be/jlAj-pLksMg?t=9m19s
      6. ↑ https://youtu.be/SoZUeCdUYTA?t=41s
      7. ↑ https://youtu.be/SoZUeCdUYTA?t=59s
      8. ↑ https://youtu.be/SoZUeCdUYTA?t=1m30s
      9. ↑ https://youtu.be/iKyD4vR_6-M?t=1m39s
      1. ↑ https://youtu.be/jlAj-pLksMg?t=28m14s
      2. ↑ https://youtu.be/tliYoW9QkyQ?t=5m49s
      3. ↑ https://youtu.be/iKyD4vR_6-M?t=2m
      4. ↑ https://youtu.be/m85paPHyffc?t=1m26s
      5. ↑ https://youtu.be/3bQPEEtWGKU?t=2m18s
      6. ↑ https://youtu.be/3bQPEEtWGKU?t=5m
      7. ↑ https://youtu.be/3bQPEEtWGKU?t=5m55s

      About This Article

      Article Summary X

      A gable roof is a simple, symmetrical triangular roof. Putting it together is relatively straight-forward if you have basic carpentry skills and use precise measurements. To build your gable roof, you’ll need wooden boards cut into joists, rafters, supports, and a ridge board, in addition to sheathing, felt paper, and shingles. First, you’ll need to work out your pitch so you know how long to cut your joists and rafters. Then, fasten ceiling joists on top of the building, add vertical supports to the outer walls, and connect them with a ridge board. Once your ridge board is secure, you can nail the rafters to it. After that, lay plywood sheathing on top, cover it with a layer of felt paper, then fasten your shingles to the sheathing. For more tips, including how to cut your rafters and supports to size, read on!

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