How to Close Stairs

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Do you have a wooden staircase in your home that has gaps between the steps? Even though open stairs are common, the openings could be a safety hazard if they’re too tall and aren’t up to code. Luckily, closing your stairs is an easy DIY project that only takes a few hours if you’re comfortable with a little woodworking. Just cut plywood boards big enough to fill the gaps, then wood glue them into place. Add 3–4 screws along the bottom edge of the board and the top edge of the stair tread to secure the board in place, then caulk the seams to finish. With a little bit of elbow grease, you can make your staircase safer!

Closing an Open Staircase

  1. Measure and cut boards of 1-in (2.5 cm) plywood big enough to close the gaps.
  2. Drill 3–4 holes in the bottom edge of your plywood board.
  3. Pour a line of wood glue over the bottom edge and stick the board in place.
  4. Drill screws through your pre-cut holes to attach the board securely.
  5. Add 3–4 screws through the top of the stair tread to further secure the board.
  6. Caulk the seams and hide the screws with wood filler, if desired.
  7. Finish the stairs with paint or veneers for a uniform look.

For popular FAQs on closing open stairs, jump to more common questions .

Part 1
Part 1 of 3:

Measuring and Cutting Your Wood

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  1. Go underneath your stairs with a tape measure and find the length of the treads, which are the horizontal steps. Then, start your tape measure on the bottom edge of the same tread. Measure up to the bottom edge of the tread that's right above the first one. Write down your measurements so you don’t forget them later on. [1]
    • Avoid starting your measurement from the top edge of the tread, or else you won't have enough material to attach the board properly.
    • Don’t assume that all of the gaps are the same size since they may vary. [2]
    • The required height between your stairs varies depending on where you live. For example, some areas only allow 4 in (10 cm) gaps while others may allow up to 8 1 ⁄ 4 inches (21 cm). Check your local building codes to see the minimum and maximum heights for your area.
  2. You can use any type of wood to build your risers, which are the vertical pieces between each step. If you want something that’s a little more durable to dings and damage, opt for pine boards. For a cheaper option, you can use MDF instead. Just ensure that it’s at least 3 ⁄ 4  in (1.9 cm) thick so you don’t accidentally kick or break through your risers. [3]
    • You don’t need to use the same type of wood that’s on the stair treads. You can always paint, stain, or cover the risers so they blend in better.
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  3. Transfer the measurements you took for each gap and use a straightedge to draw them onto the wood. Put on safety glasses before you start working with your saw. Turn on your saw and slowly cut along the lines to cut each of your pieces. [4]
    • As you cut each board, label them so you don’t forget what step to attach them to.
  4. Go behind your stairs again and position each of the new risers behind the steps. Make sure the edges are snug on the sides and the bottom doesn’t hang below the tread. If your pieces are too big, trim them down with your saw until they fit properly. [5]
    • Be careful not to cut the risers too small, or else you’ll still see gaps between your steps. If you do cut the pieces too small, you may need to start over with a new piece of wood.
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Part 2
Part 2 of 3:

Installing the Risers

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  1. Attach a drill bit to your drill that’s slightly smaller in diameter than the screws you plan on using. Measure up 1 ⁄ 2  in (1.3 cm) from the long bottom edge of your riser. Make your first hole about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in from the end of the riser. Make the rest of your holes evenly spaced along the entire length of the board. [6]
    • Pre-drilling your holes prevents the wood from splitting when you drive screws through it.
  2. Choose the face of the board that has the cleanest appearance for the front of the riser. Squeeze a thin line of wood glue starting from the first hole along the edge. Make a straight line of glue crossing through all of the holes to the other end of the riser. [7]
    • Wood glue offers additional support so your risers are less likely to come off or squeak.
  3. Position the riser behind your stairs so the line of glue presses onto the back edge of the tread. Feed 2 in (5.1 cm) screws into each of the holes and use an electric screwdriver to tighten them. Keep screwing them in until the heads are flush with the back of the riser. [8]
    • Attach C-clamps to the riser and tread if you have trouble holding it in the correct position.
    • If your stairs are made from a hardwood like mahogany, insert your drill into the riser’s holes and pre-drill into the back of the tread so you don’t damage your steps.
  4. Get out from underneath your stairs and walk up to the step that you're working on. Position your drill on top of the step about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in from the front edge. Slowly push your drill through the tread to make a hole that goes into the top of the riser you just screwed in. Make 2–3 more holes along the length of the tread so they're in line with the screws you used on the bottom edge of the riser. [9]
  5. Countersinking screws is when the tops of your screws sit flush with the surface. Insert your screws into the holes you just drilled and use your screwdriver to tighten them down completely. Make sure the tops of the screws are flat along the top of the tread when you’re finished attaching them. [10]
    • If you don’t countersink your screws, then you could catch your foot on the raised screw heads and injure yourself.
  6. Continue working up your stairway, adding the risers one at a time. Make sure each of them fits securely and doesn’t move or wobble when you’re finished installing them. [11]
    • You may need to stand on a step ladder to reach the taller steps from behind.
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Part 3
Part 3 of 3:

Finishing Your Stairs

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  1. Go behind your stairs and position the tip of a caulk gun where the edge of the riser meets the stringer, which is the angled piece on the side of your stairs that supports the steps. Pull the trigger to apply a thin bead of caulk along the side and top seams of the riser. Smooth the caulk out with the tip of your finger and let it dry for 24 hours. [12]
    • Caulk helps prevent your stairs from squeaking as well as offers additional support.
  2. Choose filler that closely matches the natural color of the wood you used. Squeeze a fingertip-sized amount of wood filler onto each of the screw heads. Use a putty knife to smooth the wood filler against the surface so it looks flush with the rest of the surface. Let the wood filler dry and harden completely before moving on. [13]
    • You can buy wood filler from your local hardware store.
  3. Rough up the surface of the risers with some 180-grit sandpaper so it accepts paint, and brush off any dust with a hand broom. Stick painter's tape on the treads where they connect to the risers so you don’t get paint on them. Apply 1 coat of primer to each of the risers, starting from the top step and working your way down to the bottom. Let the primer dry for 4–6 hours before lightly sanding the bumps down with your sandpaper again. Then, apply your paint in long horizontal strokes with a paintbrush starting from the top and working toward the bottom. Let the paint dry for another 6 hours before peeling off the tape. [14]
    • If you need another coat of paint, apply it after the first coat dries. Then let the second coat dry for another 6 hours.
    • Keep your brushstrokes going in the same direction to give each of your risers a nice, uniform look.
  4. Buy wood veneers from your local home improvement store that match or complement your treads. Cut the veneers to the sizes of your risers with a pair of scissors. Carefully peel the backing off of the veneers and press them tightly against the fronts of your risers. Use a rubber roller to get rid of any bubbles or bumps in the veneers. [15]
    • Veneers are an affordable option if you want to make your risers look like they’re made from more expensive wood, such as oak or mahogany.
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Common Questions: Dealing with Open Staircases

What is an open staircase?

Open stairs are simply stairs without risers (the “backboards” that connect the top of one step, or tread, to the bottom of the one above it). On open staircases, both the top and bottom of each tread is visible.

How do you childproof an open staircase?

If you don’t want to totally close the staircase, put slim “riser bars” between the treads to make the gaps smaller. Or, extend the treads farther out to make them harder to get through. Add removable gates to the top and bottom of the staircase, too. [18]

Can you put a runner on open stairs?

A traditional runner doesn’t work on open stairs since there are no risers to attach the carpet to (and the underside of the carpet would be visible). But, for a similar effect, just add patches of carpet to the same spot on each stair to create the illusion of a full runner.

Video

Things You’ll Need

  • Measuring tape
  • 3 ⁄ 4 –1 in (1.9–2.5 cm) plywood or MDF
  • Table or circular saw
  • Drill
  • Wood glue
  • 2 in (5.1 cm) screws
  • Caulk
  • Wood filler
  • Paint (optional)
  • Wood veneers (optional)

Tips

  • If you don’t feel comfortable working on the stairs by yourself, hire a contractor to help you close the stairs off.
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  • Many home improvement stores sell pre-cut tread and riser kits so you can easily install or replace your stairs at home.
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Warnings

  • Stairs that have gaps larger than 4 in (10 cm) are not up to code since they could cause injuries if you slip. [16]
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  • Don’t assume that each of your stairs are the same height when you’re cutting new risers. Measure each one to ensure you make them the right size. [17]
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References

  1. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0zPIAGsDrk&t=48s
  2. ↑ https://www.woodfloorbusiness.com/installation/stair-treads-dos-don-ts.html
  3. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lg4wgAvkK5Y&t=173s
  4. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0zPIAGsDrk&t=87
  5. ↑ https://youtu.be/lg4wgAvkK5Y?t=173
  6. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0zPIAGsDrk&t=109
  7. ↑ https://www.bayerbuilt.com/Resources/Installation/Stair%20Parts/Adding%20Skirts,%20Treads,%20and%20Risers.pdf
  8. ↑ https://youtu.be/lg4wgAvkK5Y?t=374
  9. ↑ https://www.bobvila.com/articles/how-to-fix-squeaky-stairs/
  1. ↑ https://youtu.be/MJrhW3H3Biw?t=279
  2. ↑ https://youtu.be/lg4wgAvkK5Y?t=446
  3. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0zPIAGsDrk&t=216
  4. ↑ https://www.bobvila.com/articles/how-to-fix-squeaky-stairs/
  5. ↑ https://youtu.be/SeY45UfRq68?t=15
  6. ↑ https://www.thisoldhouse.com/stairs/21124779/how-to-update-oak-stair-treads-and-risers
  7. ↑ https://youtu.be/PB8jT_iyC3c?t=42
  8. ↑ https://www.woodfloorbusiness.com/installation/stair-treads-dos-don-ts.html
  9. ↑ https://www.stair-rodsdirect.co.uk/blog/how-to-childproof-stairs/

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