How to Increase Well Water Pressure

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A well water system requires an open source of water coming from the water main, proper pressure readings in the control system, and an adequate amount of air in the well’s pressure tank. To diagnose problems with pressure, you’ll need to drain the system, measure the pressure in the tank, and check your control unit in order to solve the problem—either by adding air to the tank or by adjusting a setting on your control unit. If the system is working as intended, check the feed from the water main. If all else fails, you can always install a pressure booster to artificially increase pressure in your water lines.

Part 1
Part 1 of 3:

Draining Your Well System

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  1. Before you do anything, flip the switch on your wall or tank to turn the electricity for your well pump off. The switch will either be installed on the wall near your tank or on the control unit itself. If you don’t know where the electrical switch for the pump is, you can flip the breaker for the room that the well system is in. [1]
    • Turning the electricity off will hold the water supply from the source in place. This means that no new water will be fed into your tank. This will also prevent you from getting electrocuted if you have to touch the circuits in your control system.
    • If you’re using a submersible system, make sure that you close the water line manually first. There should be a valve near the location where the pipe turns downward into the ground.
  2. You need to shut off the water and drain your pressure tank in order to diagnose and resolve pressure-related issues in your well system. To start, screw a hose on to the water spigot near your control system. Run the hose to a safe area outside where you can empty a few dozen gallons of water. [2]
    • If you live in a residential area, you can run the hose out to the nearest gutter.
    • If there is water dripping off of your spigot when you go to attach the hose, this could be your problem. Try tightening the valve on the spigot. If it’s still dripping when it’s tightly closed, replace it. This may solve minor pressure issues.
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  3. After you attach and run your hose, close the water shutoff to your building. The water shutoff is usually a flat handle sticking out the top of your pipe. If you have one, it is between the tank and the pipe running the water into the building. Turn it so that it’s not parallel to the pipe to turn it off. [3]

    Tip: You may not have a shutoff valve depending on the brand of your well system. If you don’t, it’s not the end of the world. It will simply take longer to drain and resupply the pipes.

  4. Turn the valve on top of your spigot to open the water runoff. This will allow the water in your tank to empty out through the hose. The well system will use the pressure already in the tank to push out the water. [4]
    • This should typically be done once every 6-8 months for maintenance. This process removes sediment and debris from your pipes.
  5. Pay attention to the gauge above your drain valve as the water empties out of the tank. The needle on the gauge should go down very slowly at first as the water initially drains. It should drop rapidly to 0 psi once the water passes the pressure sensor at the bottom of your tank. If the gauge doesn’t respond, behaves erratically, or shoots up and down when you’re draining the tank, contact a well-water system repair company. The problem is likely electrical and requires a licensed professional to fix it. [5]
    • Psi stands for pounds per square inch. It is the unit used to measure pressure.
    • Once the pressure reads 0 psi, your tank is empty.
    • Close the spigot once you’ve drained it.
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Part 2
Part 2 of 3:

Checking Your Water Pressure

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  1. Once your tank is at 0 psi and there is no more water coming out of the hose, your tank is empty. Inspect the top of the tank and you’ll see 2 caps. The bigger one is the well cap, and the smaller one is the air fill valve. Unscrew the smaller cap by hand to access the air fill valve. [6]
    • Depending on your specific brand, the air fill valve may be on the side near the top.
    • If the screw is screwed on too tight to remove, try using a wrench or channel locks to loosen it.
    • The air fill valve is usually the smallest cap on the top of the tank. It is rarely in the center of the top though.
  2. Screw your pressure gauge on to the air fill valve. Tighten it by twisting it on to the threads of your air valve or clamping it on with the locking mechanism by flipping the switch on the gauge. Put your ear near the valve to make sure that there is no air escaping from the valve. Once the gauge is airtight on the valve, watch the needle on the pressure gauge and wait for it to adjust to the pressure on your tank. [7]
    • If you hear air coming out of the air fill valve either before or after you take the cap off, your air fill valve may need to be replaced. This typically requires a professional to install it.

    Tip: Well water systems use compressed air in the pressure tank to force water through the pipes in your building. When you check the pressure through the air fill valve without water in the tank, you’re measuring the base pressure in the tank.

  3. Check the reading on your gauge to make sure that air in your empty tank is 1-10 psi below the cut-in pressure. You’ve emptied the water in your tank, so the pressure should be a little lower than your normal cut-in pressure. If the psi in your tank is within this range, there is likely no problem in your tank. [8]
    • The most common cut-in/cut-out configurations for pressure tanks are 30/50 and 40/60. These numbers refer to the pressure level at which your pump adds or releases pressure in the tank.
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Part 3
Part 3 of 3:

Increasing the Pressure Based on the Problem

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  1. If your tank goes all the way down to 0 psi when the needle on your pressure gauge has settled, there is an issue with the way that your tank maintains and regulates pressure. Replace the entire pressure tank by contacting the company that installed it. [9]
    • If the gauge flutters all over the place, make sure that your air pressure gauge is working correctly. Try testing it on an inflated tire to ensure that it is working correctly.
    • Unless you installed the tank yourself, this typically requires a professional installation.
  2. If your tank is higher than 0 psi, but more than 2 psi under the cut-in pressure, you need to add air to the pressure tank. Attach a bike pump or air compressor to the air fill valve and fill it up for 15-45 seconds. Check the pressure again with your gauge and continue adding air and checking the pressure until you’re exactly 2 psi under the cut-in threshold. [10]
    • Never go over your cut-in pressure. This can create a dangerous scenario where there is too much pressure in the tank for the amount of water in it.
    • If you add too much air, simply press lightly on the air fill valve from the side. If you hear air escaping, it’s emptying. If it can’t be pressed to the side, attach a compressor halfway until you hear the air shooting out.
    • This is the most common problem with the water pressure in a well system.
  3. Turn the spigot where your hose is attached so that it’s closed. Remove your hose. Turn the shutoff valve back to its original position. Turn the power back on and watch the pressure gauge on the control unit to make sure that it shuts off automatically at the correct psi. If it cuts-off early, increase the cut-off by adjusting it on your pressure control switch. [11]
    • Open the water shutoff once you’ve verified that your tank is cutting off automatically at the correct psi.
    • If your well system had no shutoff valve to lock out the water in the building, it may take a while for the pressure to rebuild.

    Warning: If the water pressure extends past the cut-off, turn your system off and call a well water repair specialist. High pressure in a water system can burst pipes and require expensive and difficult repairs.

  4. If the tank reading is 2 psi under the cut-in when you measured it manually, but the gauge on the control unit is still low when there’s water in it, adjust the pressure on your control switch. Look for a grey or black box behind the gauge with a coil on it. Try tightening the nut on top for 1-2 rotations and then recheck the pressure gauge on the control unit. Tighten the nut as necessary until it reads no more than 2 psi under the cut-in. [12]
    • The pressure control switch sends the signal to the tank that it needs to turn on or off. If the switch is reading the pressure as being lower than the actual pressure, fixing the discrepancy should solve your pressure problems.
  5. If everything is working and the pressure in the tank is 2 psi under the cut-in, try checking the pressure-reducing valve on the supply line where you’re getting your water. A reducing valve looks like a bulky fixture with a bell-shaped cap, and it will be attached to the pipe between the wall where your water main is and the tank. Tighten the screw on top of the valve to see if that solves any issues related to pressure in your home. [13]
    • The pressure-reducing valve controls how fast the water is fed into your system from the water main. If it’s loose, it could be interfering with the amount of water that is supposed to be coming into your building.
    • If the pressure-reducing valve is broken, leaking, or spinning in place, replace it.
    • You may not have a pressure-reducing valve on your tank system depending where you live.
  6. If everything appears to be working on your water system, you may have a damaged or blocked pipe. Contact a plumber to inspect your pipes and identify the problem. The issue could be related to a pipe that you can’t even see. [14]
    • A plumber will be able to replace pipes and clear blockages.
    • Unless you have experience replacing pipes and resealing walls, don’t open up sections of flooring or drywall to look for a problem in your pipes. Let a professional do it.
  7. If everything is working and you have a supply pipe that is 3 ⁄ 4 inch (1.9 cm) or bigger, you can install a pressure booster. A pressure booster is a water reserve that uses an electric pump to artificially add more pressure from your water main. The installation process for a pressure booster is different depending on the brand or type of booster you buy; follow the instructions for your specific booster to attach it to your well system. [15]
    • Some pressure boosters involve cutting out a section of pipe in between your regulator and the tank and to store a reserve of water. You will need to cut pipes and add threading to install these boosters.
    • Many pressure boosters involve installing multiple valves and pressure gauges along your supply line to push water through at a faster rate.
    • Some pressure boosters are all-in-one units, and replace a section of your control unit or regulator with a second pump system.
    • If the pipe that connects to your water main is smaller than 3 ⁄ 4 inch (1.9 cm), there won’t be enough room for the pressure booster to help. You can buy a pressure booster online or from a plumbing specialist.
  8. A constant pressure system can be attached to modify the way your tank cuts in and out. Like boosters, a constant pressure system is installed differently depending on the brand or type or system. Instead of turning on and off based on the amount of pressure in the tank, a constant pressure system will keep the tank at a single, consistent level of pressure. [16]
    • Most constant pressure systems are installed on the submersible pump, in between the regulator and the water main, or on the control unit directly.
    • If a constant pressure unit is installed on the submersible pump, you’ll need a plumber to access the pump underground.
    • A constant pressure system basically turns your well system into a municipal system.
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Expert Q&A

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  • Question
    Nothing seems to be working. What else could be wrong?
    David Balkan
    Professional Plumber
    David Balkan is a Professional Plumber, CEO of Balkan Sewer and Water Main Service, and President of Balkan Sewer and Drain Cleaning. As a hands-on owner of these companies for over 40 years, David is knowledgeable about water service lines, sewers, and drain line issues. David is a Committee Chairman of the Master Plumbers Council and has sat on the Executive Committee of the Sub Surface Plumbers Association of New York for over 30 years. His knowledge and solution-oriented approach contributed to Balkan Sewer and Water Main Service being the largest and most trusted service in New York City and the recipient of the 2017 Angie’s List Super Service Award.
    David Balkan
    Professional Plumber
    Expert Answer
    It's important to keep in mind that there's water pressure and then there's water volume. You could have very low water volume available and high, adequate pressure. What that means is, if you check your water pressure with a gauge, it might be perfectly fine. However, if you flush your toilet or turn on a sink and that drops down dramatically, your problem isn't the pressure, it's the volume. Your pipes are inadequate or your source is inadequate.
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  • Question
    I replaced the pressure valve on the pressure tank. The tank pressure reads 38 psi. The new pressure valve reads 20 psi with no water running. open the faucet it drops to 18 psi,kicks in to 50 psi?
    Upnorth Here
    Top Answerer
    In a bladder-tank, you can only "read" the pressure TANK residual with the water off and the tank empty of water, leaving only the air-pressure in the top portion. If your water pressure is normally sitting below the desired cut-in pressure (e.g., 30 psi), you may need to adjust the controller.
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  • Question
    Is the figure in Part 3 paragraph 2 correct? It shows Cut-in + 2psi. Should it be Cut-in - 2 psi?
    Upnorth Here
    Top Answerer
    It should show cut-in pressure just below the typical 30 psi mark. That way, when a user opens a valve and the pressure in the system and tank drops below that, the controller will start the pump, bringing the pressure to the typical cut-out pressure of 50.
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      References

      1. ↑ https://www.doh.wa.gov/portals/1/Documents/pubs/331-342.pdf
      2. ↑ https://www.doh.wa.gov/portals/1/Documents/pubs/331-342.pdf
      3. ↑ https://youtu.be/AH4H9mpwhnY?t=70
      4. ↑ https://www.doh.wa.gov/portals/1/Documents/pubs/331-342.pdf
      5. ↑ https://youtu.be/AH4H9mpwhnY?t=130
      6. ↑ https://youtu.be/AH4H9mpwhnY?t=184
      7. ↑ https://www.doh.wa.gov/portals/1/Documents/pubs/331-342.pdf
      8. ↑ https://youtu.be/AH4H9mpwhnY?t=250
      9. ↑ https://youtu.be/AH4H9mpwhnY?t=278
      1. ↑ https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Water_Pressure_Improvements.php
      2. ↑ https://www.doh.wa.gov/portals/1/Documents/pubs/331-342.pdf
      3. ↑ https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Water_Pressure_Improvements.php
      4. ↑ https://www.familyhandyman.com/plumbing/boost-low-water-pressure-in-your-house/
      5. ↑ https://www.health.state.mn.us/communities/environment/water/docs/wells/construction/handbook.pdf
      6. ↑ https://www.familyhandyman.com/plumbing/boost-low-water-pressure-in-your-house/
      7. ↑ https://youtu.be/QGLhIkZ_3sE?t=39

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