How to Install Baseboard Heating (Electric)

Last Updated: July 15, 2022

Quicker and less expensive to install than just about any other type of heating, electric baseboard heating might be the right choice for a variety of heating needs. While 100% efficient, the cost for KW/h of electricity in your area, electric heat is often the most expensive way to heat a space.

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Older single pane windows transmit (lose) heat more quickly than newer double or triple glazed windows which are far better at isolating different air temperatures on either side.

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A space below an attic with insulated floors or located above a basement are considered insulated.
Most spaces require 10 watts per square foot of space for homes built since the 1970s. A 12 foot (3.7 m) by 12 foot (3.7 m) room has 144 sq/ft. Assuming a ceiling height less than 8 feet (2.4 m), this room should be heated comfortably with 1500 watts of heat. 1500 watts of heat is a total of 6 feet (1.8 m) of heat, assuming "standard density" baseboard heaters are selected for installation. Standard density heat is rated at 250 watts per foot. There is one other type of heat called "high density" (HD). HD heat has more than the 250 watts per foot that the standard density heat has, but does not heat quicker nor is operated for any less. HD merely provides more heat with a smaller footprint.
All of the considerations above (windows type and number, insulation, etc.) will come into play when purchasing heaters. The baseline wattage should be increased by up to 100% if the room suffers from all of the considerations. It is important to note that adding additional heaters will not increase the cost of operation. Additional heaters allow the room to maintain desired temperature during the colder days, as opposed to having the minimum heat (or baseline) installed. If only the baseline calculated amount of heat were installed, it would not be able to replace the heat as quickly as it was lost due to lack of insulation, single pane windows, etc. A room that ideally requires 1500 watts of heat might need as much as 3000 watts if it suffers from all the issues listed above. This applies to ALL types of heat (and cooling in the summer for that matter), regardless of fuel type or technology. Insulation is inexpensive over the long run.
The heat can be installed one of two ways. In the example room, install (1) 1500 watt heater or install 2 or more heaters totaling 1500 watts. The latter method can be employed for rooms at the corners of a building - having 2 exterior walls. Typically, heaters are installed below windows, where most of the heat loss occurs. Adding more watts of heat will allow the room to reach the desired temperature faster than if no additional watts of heat were installed.
Installing 240 volt heaters is best as wire sizes and number of circuits are significantly reduced. The National Electrical Code allows a 15 amp circuit to carry up to 12 amps, and a 20 amp circuit may carry up to 16 amps. The total watts allowed to be connected can be determined simply by multiplying volts by amps only because this is a purely resistive AC circuit (AC wattage calculations are much more complex for inductive and capacitive reactant circuits that exist in appliances and electronics). The 15 amp circuit is 240 x 12 = 2880 watts. The 20 amp circuit is 240 x 16 = 3840 watts. This is a maximum of 14 and 19 feet of 240 volt, standard density heat, respectively.
The thermostat should be located on an interior wall. It should never be located above a heater or other heat source, or in a dead air space such as behind a door.
Trace a switch box on the wall at 60 inches (152.4 cm) up from the floor for the thermostat where there are no framing members, etc. Cut the wall open with knife or hand saw.
Provide a 2 wire circuit (#14 for 15 amp circuit or #12 for 20 amp circuit) of NM type (Romex) or similar cable from the electrical panel to the thermostat location. This may require fishing or snaking of the cable between the points, and will probably be most time consuming. For this reason, many times a single heater sized to heat the entire space is often selected so that fishing or snaking is minimized. Indicate this cable as the "LINE" so it can be determined as such after it has been installed in the box for the thermostat.
Examine the heater(s) and remove BOTH front covers from both ends of each heater. Place the heater(s) against the wall at the desired location.
Because they are provided, no box(es) need be installed in the wall. Simply create a small hole in the wall for the cable from which to emerge and pass through appropriate connectors at the back of one of the compartments to allow the cables to enter. Connections are to be made in the compartments. This is detailed below.
Provide another 2 wire cable the same size as the one installed earlier between the panel and thermostat, between the thermostat and the baseboard heater. Indicate this cable as the "LOAD" so it can be determined as such after it has been installed in the box for the thermostat.
Continue to daisy-chain between successive heaters as needed.
Push the cable into the connector until ¹ ⁄ ₂ inch (1.3 cm) of the jacket is inside the wiring compartment.
Connect the bare wire(s) to the green screw of the heater or, if provided, to the green or bare wire that is connected to the heater case by crimp or screw.
Connect ALL the bare and any green wires together with a wirenut. Install a short piece (8") of bare wire between the bare and green wires to the green screw on the thermostat if it is not already connected.
Carefully inspect the thermostat for "LINE" and/or "LOAD" markings.
Each of the black and white wires from the panel must connect to one LINE wire or terminal. Under no circumstances should the black and white wire from the panel be connected together.
Connect it in the same manner as the LINE side.

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Can I install the heaters directly on the carpet, or do they have to be installed a distance above and secured to the wall?

Debra Bish

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The casing is normally mounted along the wall above the floor, and the heater pipe is installed inside a few inches above the floor level. The heat shield (casing) keeps the heat adequately away from the carpeting. (You should read and follow all manufacturer's installation instructions and guidelines though.)

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Is a double pole breaker always used for a baseboard heater?

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It really depends on the baseboard heater you intend to install. Baseboard heaters are typically designed for either 120V or 208/240V applications. You need a double-pole if you have a 208/240V heater and a single-pole if you have a 120V heater. On a typical residential wiring (14 AWG), a 240V circuit allows you to connect heaters up to 2880W (240W*15A*.8) while you can only connect up to 1440W (120V*15A*0.8) on 120V. If you have a 120V heater with wattage under 1440W, you can keep a single-pole breaker. You can install 208/240V heater on a 120V circuit, but it will only produce approximately 1/4 of the heat. Connecting a 120V heater on 240V will trip the high-limit switch and cause a fire.

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Can I put furniture in front of a baseboard heater?

Debra Bish

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You can, but if it's a large piece of furniture, such as a couch, you should pull it away from the heater about 4-6 inches so that the heat can flow into the room properly.

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Insulation is very inexpensive when compared to the cost of fuel, which must be purchased constantly. The insulation cost is a one time expense.

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Setting a thermostat to maximum will not heat the room any quicker than if it was set to the desire temperature. A thermostat has just two positions; ON or OFF. If the room is left with the thermostat set to high, energy is being wasted as compared to when the thermostat shutting off when the room has reached the desired temperature.

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Warnings

These circuits typically operate at 240 volts. This is a deadly voltage.

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The first time the heaters are powered, the room windows should be opened, and door(s) to the rest of the building, closed. The heaters will burn off a small amount of protective oils and may even have a very small amount of visible smoke. This is completely normal and will not happen again if allowed to burn off completely (5 minutes).

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Things You'll Need

Deep electrical box (or 4 inch square box and a single device ring) for each thermostat.
12 or 14 gauge 2 wire and ground cable (often called "12/2 or 14/2 with Ground" romex)
Snake or fish tape
Electric baseboard heaters
2 Pole line voltage thermostat
Cable connectors
Wirenuts

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How to Install Baseboard Heating (Electric)

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