How to Make a Wigwam

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A wigwam is a type of Native American dwelling, primarily used by the Algonquin Indians. Often mistaken for a teepee, a wigwam is actually quite different. While a teepee is pointed, portable, and made from hides, a wigwam is dome-shaped, stationary, and made from wood. [1] This wikiHow will show you the traditional way of making a wigwam. If you are a student making a wigwam for a project, you can use this tutorial as a guide on a much smaller scale.

Part 1
Part 1 of 3:

Preparing the Materials

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  1. You will need 16 15-foot (4.5-meter) ash saplings that are about 2 inches (5.08 centimeters) thick for the frame. You will also need at least 12 ash or basswood saplings that are 15 feet (4.5 meters) tall and 1 inch (2.54 centimeters) thick for the horizontal hoops. [2] The saplings need to be straight as possible.
    • Ash and basswood are the most traditional, but you can use other hardwoods, such as: cedar, chestnut, elm, or hickory. [3]
    • If you are making a model, use thin, bendy twigs instead. You can also use wire instead. Florist's wire coated in brown paper would work well.
  2. Start by trimming off any bark and branches. This will help reduce wood rot and help the wigwam last longer. Next, cut the ends of the saplings into points. This will make it easier to insert them into the holes. [4]
    • Make your poles extra-strong by hardening the pointy ends in a fire. This will also help them last longer once you drive them into the soil. [5]
    • If the saplings aren't flexible enough, soak them in a lake or river for at least two days first. [6] Be sure to tie them down so that they don't float away.
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  3. Gather 50 bushels of cattail leaves. A bushel is a bundle that is thick enough to wrap your arms around. Separate the cattails into 2-inch (5.08-centimeter) thick bundles. Secure each bundle at one end with some string. Set them out in the sun to dry. [7]
    • If you don't have access to cattails, you can use heavy canvas, which was used to cover wigwams from the late 1700s onwards. [8] You will need 12 to 14 sheets that are 5 by 10 feet (1.5 by 3.5 meters).
    • If you want to be more traditional, you can sew cattail leaves into large mats. Plan on using 12 to 14 mats, each 5 by 10 feet (1.5 by 3.5 meters).
    • If you are making a model, you could use pieces of grass, raffia, or straw instead. You can also use pieces of cotton, linen, or canvas fabric.
  4. Gather 7 to 10 sheets of birch bark, about 3 feet (cc meter) square. Use a hot nail or wood burner to make holes along the top edge of each birch bark sheet. [9]
    • You can also use elm bark, or weave mats out of cattails.
    • If you are making a model, you can use white paper instead. For a more realistic effect, go over it lightly in a dry brush dipped in brown paint to make the streaks.
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Part 2
Part 2 of 3:

Building the Frame

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  1. The ground needs to be flat and level. The soil needs to be soft to dig into, but not so soft that it won't support the poles. It's okay if there is some bedrock, but it needs to be deeper than 12 inches (30.48 centimeters). [10]
    • If there is any scrubby vegetation, you will need to clear it away.
    • If you are making a model, build this on top of a sheet of Styrofoam or cardboard. You can even paint it brown to make it look like dirt. You can also paint it with glue, then sprinkle real dirt on top.
  2. Drive a stake into the ground and tie a 7-foot (2.1-meter) long rope to it. Tie a stick to other end of the rope. Pull the rope taut, then use the stick to draw a circle in the ground around the stake, like a compass. [11] Pull the stake out when you are done.
  3. Each hole needs to be about 8 to 12 inches (20.32 to 30.48 centimeters) deep. [12] Space the holes as evenly as you can, about 9 to 12 inches (22.86 to 30.48 centimeters) apart. If you want to, you can space two of the holes further apart for the entrance. [13]
    • Try to make the holes at a slight, outward angle. This will help create a higher dome once you start building the frame. [14]
    • If you are making a model, use a pen, pencil, or skewer to make the holes.
  4. Skip one hole between each pole. When you are done, you should have eight holes left. [15] Make sure that you are using the 2-inch (5.08-centimeter) thick poles for this.
    • If you are making a model, you might want to glue your "poles" into the holes. Hot glue would work best.
  5. Find two poles that are straight across from each other. Bend them together so that they overlap by 2 to 3 feet (0.6 to 0.9 meters). Lash them together in two places, 3 inches (7.62 centimeters) from the tip of each pole. Continue lashing together opposite poles until you have a dome shape. [16]
    • Do not overlap any poles just yet; you want the poles to be all oriented in the same direction (ie: north-and-south).
    • If you can to be traditional, use tough bark fibers from a basswood tree. [17]
    • If you want to be less-traditional, or simply don't have access to basswood, you could use heavy jute cording or sisal twine. [18]
    • If you are making a model, you can use baker's twine, jute cord, thread, or even brownish yarn.
  6. You should have four sets of poles crossed over each other to form a grid. Lash the poles together at each of the four joints, where they connect. [19]
  7. Place eight more poles into the remaining eight holes. Lash them together using the same method as you did for the first set. This time, orient the arches perpendicular to the first set, creating a lattice-like pattern. At the end, lash all of the poles together at the joints. [20]
  8. Choose a spot between two poles on your frame that is facing east. Mark it somehow so that you will remember where it is. [21] You can do this with a piece of rope, a line of small stones, some leaves, or drawing a line in the dirt.
    • If you spaced two holes further apart earlier, use that as your entrance.
  9. Wrap 2 to 3 saplings around your wigwam frame, about 2½ feet (0.76 meters) up from the ground. Overlap the ends of the saplings and tie them together. Lash them to the wigwam frame itself, wherever the poles intersect. Be sure to skip the space between the two poles where you marked your entrance. [22]
  10. Use the same technique as you did for the first hoop. As you climb further up the wigwam, you will use fewer saplings. The last hoop should go all the way around the wigwam, including the entrance you marked out. [23]
    • Use the thinnest saplings for the last hoop.
    • If your wigwam doesn't feel sturdy enough, add a fourth horizontal hoop near the top.
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Part 3
Part 3 of 3:

Covering and Finishing the Wigwam

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  1. Secure the cattail thatching directly to the hoops, starting from the bottom-most hoop. Leave a patch empty between the two poles you marked off for the doorway. Also, leave a hole at the top for the smoke to come out of. [24]
    • Try to use one long, continuous piece of string for this.
    • Give the wigwam a gentle shake when you are done. This will fluff out the thatching and make it water and windproof. [25]
    • If you are making a model, you can hot glue the thatching to the frame instead.
  2. Weave or sew enough cattail leaves to fit over the gap you left in your wigwam. Secure the mat to the hoop just above your doorway with pieces of rope. If you don't have enough cattail leaves, you can use a blanket or hide instead.
    • Lash a stick to the bottom of your mat. This will make it easier to roll it up and tie it in place. [26]
    • If you are making a model, you can use a scrap of loosely-woven fabric, such as linen or burlap. You can also use a piece of dried corn husk, or paint a piece of paper to look like a woven mat.
  3. Start with the lower hoop first, then do the top one. This will create an overlapping, shingle effect. Tie the largest birch bark sheet to the smoke hole at the top of the wigwam. Be sure to tie just one side of it, and leave the other three sides untied. This way, you can open and close it like a flap. [27]
    • Remember to leave a gap on the lower hoop for the doorway.
    • If you are making a model, you can hot glue the sheets instead.
  4. This is not absolutely necessary, but it can help make the wigwam warmer and more waterproof. Great options include: blankets, canvas, dried bark, or hides. You only need to place them over the birch bark shingles. Remember to leave spaces for the doorway and smoke hole. [28]
    • If you are making a model, you might want to skip this step. If you really want to do it, try using suede or velvet for the fur, or felt for the blankets.
  5. Start by digging a 6-inch (15.24-centimeter) deep, 3-foot (0.91-meter) wide well into the center of your wigwam. Line the hole with small stones or clay. Add a ring of stones around the pit to help rein in the fire. [29]
    • If this is a model, you can make the hearth using pebbles or pieces of clay. You don't have to line the hole with anything.
  6. You don't have to do this, but it can make the wigwam more livable. Cover the benches with dried grass or hides. You can use the benches for seating during the day, and sleeping during the evening. You can also store items under the benches. [30]
    • If this is a model, you could build sleeping platforms using popsicle sticks, twigs, or paper, then carefully slide them into the wigwam through the doorway.
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  • Question
    Can I use dry wood instead of saplings?
    Community Answer
    No. The dry wood won't bend as easily and will snap. If you feel bad about uprooting the saplings, plant some more.
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  • Question
    Can I live in the woods at age 11?
    Community Answer
    Yes, but I do not recommend it because you have to worry about your source of food and drinkable water; you would have to cope with being alone and possibly scared. If your family is abusive, call the cops or run away to a nearby family member.
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    Is it a good idea to train and get physically prepared before I go off to try living in the wild?
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    Yes. Being knowledgeable and strong is important. You need to be able to take care of yourself with just the resources around you.
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      Tips

      • Tie straight poles to the top, inside hoops of your wigwam. Use these as rafters to hang bags, blankets, furs, and pots. [31]
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      • Try to build your wigwam during the spring or summer. This is when saplings are the most flexible. [32]
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      • You can prepare your materials ahead of time, but you need to use the saplings within 1 to 2 days, or they won't be flexible anymore. [33]
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      Things You'll Need

      • 16 15-foot (4.5-meter) ash saplings, 2 inches (5.08 centimeters) thick
      • 12+ 15-foot (4.5-meter) ash or basswood saplings, 1 inch (2.54-centiemter) thick
      • 50 bushels dried cattail leaves
      • 7 to 10 sheets of birch bark
      • 300+ feet (91.4+ meters) jute, sisal, or basswood bark twine
      • Axes, knives, machetes, saws, etc. (for cutting)


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      References

      1. ↑ http://www.native-languages.org/houses.htm
      2. ↑ http://www.primitiveways.com/wigwam.html
      3. ↑ http://www.woodlandindianedu.com/wigwamframes.html
      4. ↑ http://www.nativetech.org/wigwam/construction.html
      5. ↑ http://www.woodlandindianedu.com/wigwamframes.html
      6. ↑ http://www.primitiveways.com/wigwam.html
      7. ↑ http://www.primitiveways.com/wigwam.html
      8. ↑ http://www.nativetech.org/wigwam/construction.html
      9. ↑ http://www.primitiveways.com/wigwam.html
      1. ↑ http://www.nativetech.org/wigwam/construction.html
      2. ↑ http://www.nativetech.org/wigwam/construction.html
      3. ↑ https://www.warpaths2peacepipes.com/native-american-houses/wigwam.htm
      4. ↑ http://www.woodlandindianedu.com/wigwamframes.html
      5. ↑ http://www.woodlandindianedu.com/wigwamframes.html
      6. ↑ http://www.nativetech.org/wigwam/construction.html
      7. ↑ http://www.nativetech.org/wigwam/construction.html
      8. ↑ https://www.warpaths2peacepipes.com/native-american-houses/wigwam.htm
      9. ↑ http://www.nativetech.org/wigwam/construction.html
      10. ↑ http://www.nativetech.org/wigwam/construction.html
      11. ↑ http://www.nativetech.org/wigwam/construction.html
      12. ↑ http://www.primitiveways.com/wigwam.html
      13. ↑ http://www.nativetech.org/wigwam/construction.html
      14. ↑ http://www.nativetech.org/wigwam/construction.html
      15. ↑ http://www.primitiveways.com/wigwam.html
      16. ↑ http://www.primitiveways.com/wigwam.html
      17. ↑ http://www.primitiveways.com/wigwam.html
      18. ↑ http://www.primitiveways.com/wigwam.html
      19. ↑ https://www.warpaths2peacepipes.com/native-american-houses/wigwam.htm
      20. ↑ http://www.nativetech.org/wigwam/construction.html
      21. ↑ https://www.warpaths2peacepipes.com/native-american-houses/wigwam.htm
      22. ↑ http://www.primitiveways.com/wigwam.html
      23. ↑ http://www.woodlandindianedu.com/wigwamframes.html
      24. ↑ http://www.woodlandindianedu.com/wigwamframes.html
      25. ↑ http://www.primitiveways.com/wigwam.html
      26. ↑ http://www.primitiveways.com/wigwam.html
      27. ↑ https://www.warpaths2peacepipes.com/native-american-houses/wigwam.htm

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