Q&A for How to Fix a Running Toilet

The next step would be to adjust the float to bring up the water level to the fill line.

Whistling, foghorn, or mechanical noises, etc., are signs of a broken valve. You will need to replace it.

The most common leaks are from the bottom of the tank or the bottom of the bowl. For a leak from the bottom of the tank, you may need to replace the tank-to-bowl gasket which can dry-rot with age. Set the tank square on the bowl, and alternate tightening the left and right screws by pushing down on each side that you are tightening. Be careful not to overtighten the bolts, or you may crack the porcelain tank. For a leak from bottom of bowl, replace the wax doughnut with a new one or use a newer composite material. You can find the necessary supplies at a local hardware store.

Some fill valves hiss to release pressure. When the hissing is obnoxious or excessive, you can replace the fill valve as newer ones don't hiss as much.

Because there is not enough water in the main tank. Check the water level in the main tank to make sure it is at or close to the fill line, then flush again.

There should be a knob you can turn to shut off water going to and from the toilet. (You just can't use the toilet without the water on.)

The chain may be stuck. Open the lid on the back and see if the chain has a kink in it or is caught on something.

The level might be set too high, allowing the water to keep flowing. Check the water level and set it to the fill line. The stopper at the bottom of the tank could also be stuck, or the chain might be caught. Check that the stopper (the rubber piece at the bottom of the tank) completely closes and the chain allows it to close.

If water is leaking from under the toilet onto the floor, the most likely cause is a broken or malfunctioning wax ring. The wax ring seals the connection between the toilet pipes and the sewer pipes. If water is leaking at the base of your toilet, fix the problem by replacing the ring.

Check to see whether the water leaks out of it. If there is no leakage, it's fine but you might wish to consult a plumber for prevention from future problems.

They work the same. Modern toilets are usually smaller, using small floater instead.

Read the suggestions in the article. Try re flushing the button you pressed to make it keep running. This should replace the lever mechanism. Then, call a plumber.

Try adjusting the float. It may have moved and is not using enough water to flush properly.

There could be debris in the shut off valve, or the toilet fill valve could be worn out. Chances are it's the fill valve, so start by replacing it.

That only happens when the toilet has something stuck in the pipes. Then you need to use a plunger.

Make sure the handle returns to up position. Sometimes the handle will get stuck in the down position which causes the toilet to constantly run.

As long as the fittings match, or you know the adapters you need to use, you should be able to do this.

To replace yourself: around $20 for parts. To have a professional fix: Around $75 (depending on the call-out fee).

If the water went on the floor (versus into the tank), then it could be the tank bolt seals. If the water went into the tank, then it's probably the flapper or the flush valve-to-tank seal. Although unlikely, in either case, the tank might be cracked.

Marine grade, non-hazardous material suitable for contact with water, and possibly grease. You shouldn't really need to lube any parts on a toilet unless its specifically calls for it.

Check if the water in the back tank. If it is below the fill line, check your float height, and if necessary, adjust it to be higher.

On the inside of tank, remove the old toilet handle by turning the nut with pliers. Replace with new handle.

I suspect the flush valve-to-tank seal, or the area where the flapper rests against the flush valve has some "gunk" on it (meaning the flapper isn't making a good seal).

You may have a small clog somewhere in the line.

To replace the seal under the flush valve that the flapper sits on (the flush valve-to-tank seal), you'll have to remove the tank, then remove the flush valve (usually a large plastic nut, about 2.5 inches, on the bottom of the tank). Replace the seal and reassemble. You should also replace the bolt seals at this time. They're cheap, and while you've go the tank off the bowl, you might as well replace them, too.

You should replace the flapper. You can find flappers at a local hardware store.

You will need to empty the tank and install a new overflow. It will entail removing the tank first. Remove the two or three screws at the bottom of the tank, remove the overflow unit and replace it. If you are not sure what to get, go to your local parts center and they can help. While you are at it, you have it all apart, rebuild the tank with a rebuild kit. Fill valve, stopper and overflow, perhaps new bottom tank/bowl seal. That way, you shouldn’t need to mess with it for a while.

It depends on where the water is coming from and where it is going. Check all your connections and make sure they are tight and in working order.

Take the cover off the tank and on the backside of your handle, there should be a plastic nut. Unscrew the nut and remove handle.

Check that the float doesn't have a leak and is itself filling with water, making it less buoyant. Do so by turning water off, flush, then shaking the float to see if any water comes out. On a refill of the tank, hold float under water and look for air bubbles coming out of the float. If this appears to be the problem, either replace float (which may mean the entire assembly) or fully dry it out and attempt to plug the leak with glue.