Q&A for How to Install a Floating Floor

Yes, if the subfloor is strong enough. If the subfloor is plywood, such as on a first floor with a basement or a second floor, placing a heavy load will cause it to sag over time if not reinforced. Concrete as a subfloor is a better option if you plan to have something really heavy sitting on that floor. In most cases, though, a floating floor shouldn't have a problem sustaining normal amounts of weight.

Either lay it over both layers, or pull one up first. The remaining layer(s) will serve as insulation. Make sure the floor is completely clean before laying the new flooring.

It shouldn't take too long, but the total time will depend mainly on the size of the room you are doing. Generally, after preparation, a decent carpenter could lay out a large living room in about five hours, but it may take some amateurs up to the entire day.

You can if you use vinyl planks, but not wood or laminate; they should not get wet.

Ignore the instructions the flooring came with and leave them in all the time. Hopefully they are thin enough to put the base boards right over. A couple of years ago we bought the expensive kind of laminate hardwood flooring (Bruce). It cost just as much as 3/4" red oak (the best if you can get). We removed the shims for expansion and shrinking just like the instructions said. With use the floor comes apart--unlocks. Unless you live in a place with drastic humidity changes, leave those suckers in.

No. I highly suggest not laying over carpet. The floor will move too much and could pull apart at the joints.

Yes. Floating is relative to lateral floor movement, not vertical. The floor compresses on the underlayment. It doesn't defy gravity and float. An appropriate underlayment may minimize noise.

Yes, if you use a product that has attached underlayment. LV-luxury vinyl planks, such as Coretec, Smartcore, Nucore are options.

You should check your local regulations regarding the removal and disposal of asbestos. You may need to have a specialist do this.

Check that there is sufficient expansion space all round the edges. If it butts up to a wall, temperature and humidity will cause expansion, which in turn may cause lifting. If it's worse in the colder months than in a dry summer, this is probably the case. If found so, trimming 5 mm off the offending edge using an electric dovetail-blade reciprocating saw might solve it.

Install around them. Don't lay it under anything that's permanently in place. That might prevent the floor from "floating."

You can actually start anywhere, but it would be easiest to start against the longest, unbroken and least complicated wall and then deal with variations as you go.

Yes. Be sure to install an adequate water barrier beneath the flooring and allow for expansion and contraction around the edges of the room.

Yes, if the squares adhere well to the sub-floor.

Yes, that's a good idea. The thicker the barrier, the better.

Cover the exposed edge with bullnose molding, which gives it a "finished" look. That molding should be available anywhere flooring is sold.

Nothing but gravity and the fact that all of the planks are interlocked with each other like a jigsaw puzzle. Molding around the edge of the room also serves that purpose.

If the rooms on either side of a doorway feature floor planks oriented in the same direction, there's no need for a transition piece. Such a piece is designed to cover the transition between a room with "north-south" flooring and one with "east-west" flooring.

Yes. That's why they recommend removing the spacers.

Yes. See Part 1 Step 2 above. Be sure to install a vapor barrier under the flooring.

No. When the flooring actually "floats" (expands/contracts with temperature changes), cracks will appear at the caulking. Use something like quarter-round molding instead.

When butting two boards together, lay one flat, raise the far end of the second board, join the butt ends together and lower the second board until it's flat. The two pieces are now attached.

Yes. Any stable surface will work.

Yes. If it's in decent condition, linoleum is as good an underlayment as anything else.