Q&A for How to Properly Maintain Swimming Pool Water Chemistry

Hard water is water rich in calcium deposits.

Test it. Have your local pool supply store test your water and get a test kit. There is no way to look at your water and know if the chemicals are out of balance. Even algae isn't always a balance problem.

Drain some water from your pool and replace it with clean, fresh water. Or you can add a chemical called Thio-Trine.

Test strips have expiration dates on the container. Your test kit should too.

PPM stands for parts per million, and it describes the amount of chemical that is present in the fluid being tested.

You might want to drain your pool, refill it, and then ad the salt. If you leave the fertilizer in the pool, your pool will be high in phosphates and other minerals, which can contribute to algae growth. Also, many fertilizers are high in ammonia, so adding chlorine can release chlorine gas, which is deadly.

Cloudy water can be the result of an over-saturation of chemicals, a lack of vacuuming, or clogged filters. This article can help you find and correct the problem: How to Diagnose and Clear Cloudy Swimming Pool Water .

Buy a bucket of CrystalClear Algae Off and add 1 cap per week to the pool. The bucket should last about a year.

Run a broom handle or PVC pipe through it carefully.

Muriatic acid, or sulfuric acid in the form of sodium hydrogen sulfate granules.

Nothing bad. Wash the inside and clean it when you're ready to use it.

Change the percentage of pool water (providing incoming water is a normal 7.2-7.8 pH) and retest. You could also add pH down acids slowly while retesting over a few hours.

No, salt does not prevent algae growth, unfortunately.

Take a water sample from as far away from the skimmer and return as possible, and at least 12 inches deep.

None. Baking soda will lower pH. Instead you would need soda ash (borax) to raise pH. Try using about 24 oz. to raise it .2.

Most likely algae is growing. Buy a bucket of CrystalClear Algae Off and add one cap per week to the pool.

The container you use will show a measuring guide. Usually one cup per 10 cubic meters - you need to know your pool size.

pH is the term used to refer to the degree of activity of an acid or base in the water and is the most important chemical factor in swimming pools. pH is measured on a scale from 0 to 14 with 7 being neutral. A pH value between 0 and 7 is considered acidic, with 0 being the greatest acid activity and getting weaker as it approaches a value of 7. A value of 7 to 14 is considered basic, with 14 being the greatest base activity.

No, as this is not safe.

Take a water sample in to your local pool supply store monthly, they can help you resolve this.

Drain off at least 1/3 of the water and replace it. Use well water if available, as city water has some chlorine in it.

You should not add them all at once. Some chemicals affect other levels in your pool, so you should fix one of the big two -- chlorine or pH -- first, then proceed to the others.

No. If you're referring to pool shocking, then carefully read the package and it will tell you how long you have to wait after shocking before you can swim.

It depends on the size and chemical content of your pool. Use the directions on the back of the chlorine package to help you.

You could use test strips to track the pH levels. One thing you could try is, if you frequently change the water, try doing this less frequently. You can also use calcium carbonate, which will naturally build up over time. These things should lower the pH in your water.

No. The chemicals needed vary based on the width, length, and average depth of the pool.

The math formula you will need to calculate this is Length x Width x Average Depth x Multiplier, so you will need an average depth to get the total amount of chemicals needed, and a multiplier.

You could use algcide to balance your pool chemicals. Visit your local pool supply store and get your water tested by them. Keep your solar cover on when not in use and test your water at home.

8 to 12 hours a day is enough depending on the pump.

Measure the pH level with a test strip. (Neutral is around 7.2 pH.) Should your pool be alkaline, add in measured quantities of muriatic acid and measure again after waiting a little while for the acid to be distributed and begin neutralizing the alkalinity. From the starting pH registered on the test strip, you may now determine how much more acid to add.