Q&A for How to Prune a Crabapple Tree

Pruning should be done for the health of your tree more than for aesthetics. Keep this in mind when deciding whether or not to cut branches. If you do cut, make sure that it is done before June.

There is disagreement over tree wound paint. Some people swear by it, but others argue that the tree heals itself without paint or that paint can actually hinder healing. So, painting is completely up to you. Do what you feel is best for your tree.

"Topping" can seriously weaken the tree, and in crabapples almost always triggers a large amount of water sprout growth. These thin branches will return year after year to ruin the aesthetics anyway, so it's best to leave the top on. If the tree needs to be shortened for safety reasons (such as power lines), hiring a professional gives you the best odds of a healthy, permanent solution. Even then, it's far from guaranteed.

Thick, dense growth is a more common problem, so you might have lucked out. Careful pruning during the dormant season can promote new growth, but the process is tricky to get right. Learn how to make "heading cuts," removing young branches back to a bud so a new branch will grow from just below the cut.

Most crabapple trees do not grow aggressive root systems, but there is still a risk. Installing a root barrier is a wise move unless you have reliable information on your crabapple variety's maximum root distance, and ideally have a 25% safety margin beyond that. Sewage contamination from the septic system can also make the fruit unsafe to eat, although the risk is lower than for below-ground crops.

It could, but only if excess growth is the underlying problem. If the issue is weak growing soil, inadequate drainage, disease, or infestation, pruning may not do much to improve your tree's health. It may be wise to test the soil on your growing site and supplement with fertilizers and/or drainage materials if need be.

You should trim branches to shape the tree. It doesn't matter if that means you cut off some of the fruit, just focus on the shape.

Transplanting a tree isn't easy, and a lot depends on the specific variety and conditions. The tree may need moving if it's crowding against other plants, or if it's getting the wrong amount of sun. Transplant during the dormant season, but while the ground is workable.

Generally speaking, it's a good idea to cut back even thriving trees a little every dormant season. Focus on dead, drying, diseased, or damaged branches. Remove these using a pruning saw. Then, turn your attention to unwanted growth like suckers and water sprouts that could sap vital nutrients from healthier parts of the tree.

I had the same thing so two winters ago. I was ruthless and chopped off the smaller one. This year I have a gorgeous, healthy, plump tree laden with crabapples.

Yes. Either they're low-lying limbs, which could hinder your ability to walk, mow, or prune around the tree, or they're canopy branches that have become overgrown or are drooping due to disease or weakness. In either case, intervention will be necessary in order to ensure that the tree continues producing healthy new growth.

Unless the entire tree looks lifeless, the prognosis is good. Remove as much dead and diseased wood as possible to clear the way for new growth. Afterwards, snip off any suckers or wood sprouts you happen to come across. Don't forget to thin out close-growing higher branches to open up the canopy a bit and promote airflow.

You can cut back suckers at any time of year. If they've spread across your yard, it may be easier to use a sucker removal spray. You can find this at a garden store.

The article says: "Never remove more than 20% of your crabapple tree’s total live growth in one year. Doing so could severely stunt its growth or even kill it."

Scrape the bark with your fingernails, if it's green and white, it's still alive. If it's brown and dry, it's dead.