Q&A for How to Replace a Hydraulic Hose

You need to remove the pins or mounting plates holding the pins in place in order to remove the cylinder.

Start by ensuring the engine is off and cool. Remove the radiator cap and pour the contents of the leak sealant directly into the cooling system. Top it off with a coolant and water mixture if your vehicle's engine is currently low. Replace the radiator cap and start the engine.

With the motor off, move all levers on valve bank to release pressure. Make sure to have forks on ground or supported appropriately.

No. Make sure you release pressure and ensure that the cylinder is not supporting a load, then you can remove the hose and plug cylinder to prevent excess leakage.

The answer depends on the type of cylinder. Two hoses are required per cylinder for most cylinders. There has to be a way to put fluid in one end and take the fluid out of the other end at the same time. Cylinders for this application might include anything where you want power in both directions, such as on an excavator arm. The other type of cylinder requires one hose to put fluid in one end. This type of application usually requires a outside force to bring the cylinder back to its starting position. Think of a forklift that uses power to lift weight, but allows gravity to bring it back down.

Depending on type of fittings JIC, ORFS, BSPP, Metric, code 61, code 62, UNO, JIS, komatsu, just need lube on threads. BSPT needs sealant or thread tape.

Most times two or four depending on the cylinder as some have one single cylinder and others have one doublended cylinder, still others have two separate cylinders, hence the 4 hoses.

Flushing and replacing the fluid is one way...but it's costly. Removing both fittings and using DRY compressed air is another, but be sure the air is DRY (by filtering). Take two old fittings with the hose cut off and place them on the current fittings -- this opens the path and allows 'flow'. Then put the air to it!

Honestly, this may not be a job you can (or should) do alone. You may need a shop with an overhead hoist or crane to pull the counterweight off, and/or a set of heavy duty ramps or a lift to get underneath the forklift safely. If you know of a place where they service, rent, or repair forklifts, ask them what is involved in changing the hose. You may get enough information to decide if you have the equipment to do it yourself, or you may decide to have it done professionally.

It is unlikely that your hose fittings have reverse threads, Chances are that the fitting treads will be very tight and also corroded after years and years of exposure to dirt, dust, heat, cold, and moisture. Get yourself a couple of cans of a good release agent; Wurth manufactures a product called "Rost Off Ice", a penetrating lubricant mixed with a chilling agent. A couple of well-placed blows with a suitably-sized hammer on the external flats of the female nut can also be very helpful. Correctly-sized wrenches and spanners and considerable force will also be required.

Mot importantly you'll need a replacement hose. If you know the type of hose, get an exact replacement from a supplier. If you don't know the type, then remove the hose and bring it to the supplier for a replacement. The other equipment you'll need are 2 wrenches, gloves, and goggles.