How to Remove Drywall

Reviewed by Barry Zakar

Last Updated: December 3, 2024 Approved

Removing drywall may be necessary when renovating a room, repairing localized damage, or when gutting a house after a flood. Learning to approach the job properly will help it go a lot faster. Learn to prep the walls for removal and a few simple steps to get through the process efficiently.

Part 1

Part 1 of 2:

Getting Started

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If you want to remove drywall, it's very important that you shut off any utilities in the area of the house that you're working on. Water and electricity should be shut off at the source before you start working on the drywall. ^{[1]
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2
Use a stud-finder to locate obstacles. Any time you're going to start digging around in a wall, it's important to use a stud-finder and find out exactly what you're messing around with. Most modern stud-finders will come with pipe and electrical settings, meaning that you can use it to identify and locate any fixtures that might be built into the wall, to make sure you can avoid them successfully. ^{[2]
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- Mark areas with studs or fixtures with tape and work carefully around them, working toward the sensitive spots.
- If you don't have a stud finder, go around the room carefully knocking on the wall. Hollow sounding spots should be unobstructed drywall, but harder knocking spots will have studs and possibly piping throughout. Use caution in those areas, slowing working in that direction.
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3
Remove the molding first. Usually baseboards and ceiling moldings must be removed first, before you can access the drywall and begin removing it. This is done with a flat bar or other prying tool. Both types of moldings are usually affixed with nails, and should be pried from the walls slowly, working from nail to nail. Do the same thing with any molding or trim around windows and doors before you access the drywall.
- Use a utility knife to score the seam between moldings and drywall. The seam is typically filled with paint, caulk, or some combination of adhesive. If you want to reuse the molding, score the drywall edge of the seams to help fracture the wall where the molding and drywall surface will split.
Make sure the power is off on these circuits, then carefully remove the trim from around any electrical devices in the area, including wall switches, receptacles, and thermostats. The drywall is usually fit around the device boxes underneath these covers so they won't be damaged when removing the drywall.

Part 2

Part 2 of 2:

Removing Drywall

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1
Look for drywall screws. Depending on the age of the house you're working in, the drywall will either be nailed or screwed into the studs. To remove drywall that's nailed in, you'll simply start prying up the sections of drywall, piece by piece. If, on the other hand, the drywall is screwed in, you might need to take a bit more time to remove the screws before you start prying it loose. Screws that are bedded in joint compound can be very difficult to locate and remove. ^{[3]
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- Drywall screws can sometimes be removed with a Philips-head screwdriver, but depending on the condition of the wall, this may be more hassle than it's worth. Look at the screws and the condition of the drywall itself. If they're easy to remove, go ahead and remove them. It'll mean less elbow grease down the road.
- If the drywall is wet, or if the screws are mangled, rusted, or otherwise difficult to remove, go ahead and start prying the drywall loose as if they were simply nailed in.
2
Start at the bottom of undamaged drywall. Standard drywall installation is done using 4x8 ft panels. Those are usually mounted horizontally with staggered joints, with two sections used to cover a standard 8 feet (2.4 m). section of wall. These will be fastened into the vertical wooden studs, centered at 16 or 24 inch (40.6 or 61.0 cm) intervals.
- For unsoiled drywall, use a pry bar to begin prying the bottom of the panel away from these studs, allowing removal of the entire sheet. Pushing the short end of the flat bar up under the bottom of the panel allows for using the long end as a lever, making the initial prying easy.
3
Continue prying the side of the section loose. Identify a section of wall roughly 2 feet (0.6 m) above the ground and 8 inches (20.3 cm) from the end of the wall, making note to avoid electrical outlets. Using a hammer claw, make a foot long vertical series of holes. ^{[4]
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- Basically, what you want to do is open up some space to grab hold of the drywall and pull it loose. It's not rocket-science: knock some holes in at the side and give yourself something to hang onto.
Grab at the upper and lower holes you've cut and pull a large chunk of drywall off the nails on the nearby stud. Keep moving along the wall, pulling chunks loose as you go. When the drywall breaks on a stud, make another vertical hole in adjacent gap and continue removing the drywall by hand. ^{[5]
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5
Start in the center of water-damaged drywall. For water-damaged drywall, a good strategy is to open a hole at the midpoint of the 14.5 inch (36.8 cm) space between studs. Using a sledge or a battering ram of some kind can usually be effective in this circumstance. ^{[6]
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- If the water-damage extends to the upper panel, the same action will usually cleanly separate the wall from the ceiling.
Use the flatbar to pry loose any nails remaining on the studs, or take care to unscrew the screws remaining in the wood. A pry bar or a hammer claw should be fine for the job. ^{[7]
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Question

How do I remove screws from my drywall?

Community Answer

Get a magnet to locate the screws and then dig out the drywall mud. They should only be a coin thickness deep and easy to unscrew.

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Can we open windows when removing drywall?

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I don't see why not. In fact, you'd be well served to put exhaust fans in the open windows to pull out the dust.

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How do I tape and mud drywall?

Community Answer

Stick mesh drywall tape to the drywall and then thinly or lightly smear on the joint compound. YouTube will be your best instructor.

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If electrical outlet covers are to be reused, remove them beforehand, using a screwdriver.

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In some situations, the nails are not clearly visible. Rub the tool up and down the length of exposed stud to find remaining nails.

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Warnings

These instructions are for removing drywall installed on walls only, removing drywall ceilings may have additional hazards and present difficulties not covered in this article.

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Older drywall installations may contain asbestos or be painted with lead paint, both of which are regulated hazardous materials requiring specialized equipment and training to handle safely.

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Always wear eye protection, gloves, helmet, and closed shoes/boots when engaged in demolition. A filtering mask may also be beneficial to reduce inhaled dust.

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Ensure electrical service is shut off to room where you are removing the drywall. When in doubt, turn off the main circuit.

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Drywall is a dense, heavy material, and some types contain fiberglass reinforcing that can cause substantial irritation if proper protective equipment isn't used.

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