How to Remove & Replace a Leaking Toilet Flange

When a toilet is leaking from the base, you may need to replace the flange, which connects the toilet to the bathroom floor. Whether your subfloor is wood or concrete, we’ve got all the steps you need to properly install a new flange and get your toilet up and running again. We interviewed master plumber Dave Jones to find out how to properly remove your toilet, replace the flange, and reset the toilet so it runs smoothly once again.

Replacing a Broken Toilet Flange

Turn the water valve off, flush the toilet, and sponge up the water in the tank.
Remove the 2 anchor bolts attaching the toilet to the floor.
Move the toilet aside on a towel and plug up the drain pipe with an old T-shirt.
Scrape off the old wax on the drain pipe and toilet with a putty knife.
Unscrew the toilet flange and remove it.
Put the new flange in the drain pipe and screw it into the subfloor.
Reverse the steps to replace the toilet and turn the water on.

Part 1

Part 1 of 3:

Removing the Toilet

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1
Turn the valve behind the toilet to turn off the water supply. Master plumber Dave Jones says to turn “the water valve to the right. If it’s an older style gate valve, it will require several turns before it closes. If it’s a quarter-turn ball valve, it only require turning the valve one quarter of a 360-degree turn." ^{[1]
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Expert Source

Dave Jones
Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Water Cleanup

Expert Interview. 13 December 2021.}
- If this doesn’t shut off the water supply completely, turn off the main water valve near your water heater or in your garage, laundry room, or basement. ^{[2]
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2
Flush the toilet and sponge up the water in the tank. Jones says to "Flush the toilet repeatedly until most of the water is out of the tank,” then “use a sponge to soak up the remaining water in the tank.” ^{[3]
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Expert Source

Dave Jones
Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Water Cleanup

Expert Interview. 13 December 2021.} Because the water supply is shut off, the tank won’t refill. ^{[4]
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- You can also use a wet vac, towels, or a turkey baster to remove any remaining water in the tank and the bowl.
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3
Disconnect the water supply line from the toilet tank. Try to unscrew the nut counterclockwise by hand first. If that doesn’t work, Jones says to “Remove the water supply line from the bottom of the toilet tank using an adjustable wrench.” Tuck the end of the line in a bucket or on a towel to capture any water left inside. ^{[5]
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- Jones recommends putting on “some protective rubber or latex gloves” for the rest of the process.
4
Remove the 2 anchor bolts that attach the toilet to the floor. Jones says “Remove the bolt covers at the base of the toilet pedestal to reveal the bolts and nuts.” Then, “use an adjustable wrench to loosen the nuts on the vertical bolts that secure the toilet to the toilet flange at the floor. Completely remove the nuts and washers.” ^{[6]
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Expert Source

Dave Jones
Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Water Cleanup

Expert Interview. 13 December 2021.}
- If the edge of your toilet was sealed to the floor with caulk, gently rock it side to side to break the seal. ^{[7]
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- The new toilet flange set should come with nuts, bolts, and washers, but keep them handy if they’re in good condition in case it doesn’t.
5
Lift the toilet straight up and place it sideways on a towel. Place a towel or two on the floor. Jones says to “Stand up and grasp the front of the bowl and the back of the tank while keeping your back straight. Begin lifting the toilet straight upward, using your legs to lift. The toilet should come free off the bolts and the old wax ring that sealed it to the toilet flange at the floor.” ^{[8]
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Expert Source

Dave Jones
Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Water Cleanup

Expert Interview. 13 December 2021.}
- Alternatively, place the toilet straight down on the towels—just make sure to tilt the toilet slightly when you’re scraping off the old wax to remove the wax from the base, too.
- Toilets weigh between 70–120 lb (32–54 kg), so get help if you’re not sure you can lift it. ^{[9]
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- To make this process easier, use a wrench to remove the bolts underneath the tank that attach to the bowl. Move the tank first, then move the bowl.

Part 2

Part 2 of 3:

Replacing the Toilet Flange

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1
Plug the drain pipe with an old towel or T-shirt. Push the towel or shirt securely into the pipe to prevent odors and sewer gasses from entering your home. ^{[10]
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Research source} Make sure the towel or shirt is pushed down far enough that you can reach the bottom edges of the flange.
- Make sure to use a towel or shirt you don’t want to wear again—you’ll throw it away after you’re done.
- Some people wait to block up the pipe until after removing the old flange. However, by blocking it now, you stop sewer gases earlier and prevent losing wax ring bits, screws, bolts, and other tools down the pipe.
2
Scrape off the old wax with a putty knife . The wax ring sits on top of the toilet flange and seals the connection between the flange and the toilet base. Scrape the wax off the flange and the bottom of the toilet bowl until both are completely clean. ^{[11]
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- Jones says you can also “Use a large flathead screwdriver to pry up the old wax ring and [any] remaining remnants.” ^{[12]
  X
  Expert Source
  
  Dave Jones
  Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Water Cleanup
  
  Expert Interview. 13 December 2021.}
- Keep some newspaper or an old towel nearby so you can wipe off your putty knife as you work. ^{[13]
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  Research source} The wax will likely come off in sticky chunks.
Use a screwdriver or drill to remove the screws (usually, there are 2 to 4) from the edge of the flange. ^{[14]
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4
Remove the flange if it's made out of PVC and sealed with a gasket. If you have a gasket-sealed PVC flange, which is the most common type, you’ll be able to lift it straight up from the drain pipe once the screws have been removed. Rinse it under the sink and wipe it with a cloth. ^{[15]
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Research source} Clean the area around the drain pipe with a wet vac or damp cloth.
- If you have a metal flange: Call a plumber and have them finish the job for you.
- If the flange is glued into the pipe: Call a plumber or carefully cut the sides in 1 in (2.5 cm) sections with a reciprocating saw and remove the pieces with a chisel or crowbar.
- If the flange is made of cast iron and joined to a cast iron pipe: Call a plumber or carefully chip away at the lip with a chisel and rubber mallet. ^{[16]
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5
Take the old flange to the hardware store and buy a matching one. Measure the interior of the exposed drain pipe and find a new flange that’s the same size and shape as the old one. ^{[17]
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Research source} Most new flange kits come with a wax ring, while others require you to buy the ring separately.
- If you can’t find a good match or need help in general, ask an employee at the store for help.
- Instead of wax, some newer rings are rubber gaskets instead. You can install these the same way you'd install a wax ring.
6
Put the new flange in the drain pipe and insert the mounting bolts. Jones says that the flange lip “has slots that allow you to place the two brass closet/toilet bolt heads (facing down) into the large opening of the slots.” Slide the bolts towards the end of the slots. Rotate the flange so that the bolts are “in the 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock positions, one bolt on each side of the flange.” ^{[18]
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Expert Source

Dave Jones
Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Water Cleanup

Expert Interview. 13 December 2021.}
- Read your local plumbing codes to see if you’re required to glue the flange to the drain pipe. If you are, carefully apply the glue to the bottom of the flange and the inside of the pipe. ^{[19]
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- If your flange has a stainless steel ring around the outside, simply spin the ring so the bolts are in the correct positions. ^{[20]
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- If the lip of the flange won’t rest flush with the wood floor, the floor may be warped or damaged. You may need to hire a pro to replace the floor or subfloor before continuing.
7
Drive screws through the flange and into the flooring. Use a drill to create pilot holes in the flooring, then drive the screws into the holes. ^{[21]
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Research source} If the subfloor is concrete, use a masonry drill bit and screws made for concrete. ^{[22]
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Research source} If your subfloor is made of wood, use wood screws.
- Some kits come with 2 or 4 screws, while others have up to 6.
8
Push the new wax ring into place over the flange. Press the rounded side of the wax ring over the pipe stub that surrounds the opening on the bottom of the toilet. Press firmly around the wax ring, but try not to deform it. ^{[23]
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- Alternatively, lay the wax on top of the toilet flange, then set the toilet on top of it.
- Jones recommends following the “directions on the package so that it is installed properly.” ^{[24]
  X
  Expert Source
  
  Dave Jones
  Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Water Cleanup
  
  Expert Interview. 13 December 2021.}
- If you’re using a flange that comes with a rubber gasket, lay it rounded-side-up on the toilet flange and place the toilet on top of it.
Pick out any pieces of wax ring, loose screws or washers, and other objects before removing the towel or shirt to prevent them from falling down the pipe. Dispose of the shirt or T-shirt.

Part 3

Part 3 of 3:

Reinstalling the Toilet

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1
Set the toilet straight down on top of the flange. Line up the holes in the toilet base with the 2 bolts that protrude from the flange. Once the toilet is resting on the flange, press down firmly near the back of the bowl rim to deform the wax ring and seal the connection. ^{[25]
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- This process is the same whether you press the wax ring to the underside of the toilet or place it on top of the flange.
2
Place the washers and nuts onto the bolts on either side of the base. Put a plastic washer onto each bolt first if they’re included in your kit, then place the metal one on top. Hand-tighten the nuts clockwise before using an adjustable wrench to tightly secure them. ^{[26]
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- Be careful not to overtighten the bolts—this can cause the porcelain or the new flange to break.
- If you have plastic caps that cover the bolts, snap them in place. If the bolts are too long, trim them with a hacksaw so that the plastic caps will fit over them.
3
Reconnect the water supply hose and turn on the water supply. Hand-tighten the nut at the end of the metal supply hose onto the connection point on the underside of the toilet tank. Use an adjustable to finish tightening the coupling if needed. ^{[27]
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Research source} Turn the oval-shaped valve counterclockwise to turn the water back on.
- Plastic couplings usually only need to be hand-tightened, while metal ones can be tightened with a wrench or pliers.
4
Flush the toilet multiple times to check for leaks. Carefully check the floor around the base of the toilet. If it stays dry, you’re all set. If you see any water seeping out, you’ll need to remove the toilet and try again—or call a plumber. ^{[28]
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- Apply bathroom caulk to the bottom edge of the toilet if your local plumbing codes require you to. ^{[29]
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Expert Q&A

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Question

Can you put a new toilet flange over an old one?

Dave Jones
Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Water Cleanup
Dave Jones is a Professional Plumber and the Midwest Regional Vice President at Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Water Cleanup. In 1992, Jones joined Roto-Rooter as a drain service technician at the age of 18. Since then, he has risen through the ranks into positions of increasing authority. Dave served as general manager of Roto-Rooter’s Charlotte, North Carolina, and Atlanta, Georgia branches before being promoted to Contractor Area Manager and later to Regional Vice President. Dave holds Master Plumber Licenses in Pennsylvania, North Carolina, and Georgia.

Dave Jones

Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Water Cleanup

Expert Answer

When removing an old toilet, the flange should remain connected to the bathroom floor so that the new toilet can be attached to it. In other words, it is meant to stay in place unless it was damaged or bent during the removal of the last toilet.

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How much does it cost to replace a toilet flange?

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This answer was written by one of our trained team of researchers who validated it for accuracy and comprehensiveness.

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Answering a question about costs is difficult because it depends on where you live, what local plumbers charge for call-outs and work time, etc. Assuming you’re asking for a plumber to come out, this could cost roughly around US$50 to US$200, probably leaning mostly to the upper end of costs. It’s a good idea to call your local plumber and ask for a quote first, then you won’t get any nasty surprises.

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Can toilet flange be flush with floor?

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This answer was written by one of our trained team of researchers who validated it for accuracy and comprehensiveness.

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Staff Answer

As explained above, the lip of the toilet flange should sit flush on the floor all the way around. The neck of the flange should slide into the pipe snugly. An improperly fitted toilet is often caused by the flange not sitting on the finished floor but rather, sitting above it, or it is not level with the floor. It’s also important to read the industry code for toilet fitting relevant to your location and building materials, as local variations may exist.

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Tips

If you discover a leak beneath your toilet and remove the toilet, you may discover that the flange is undamaged. In this case, simply replace the wax ring and see if that corrects the leak.

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Warnings

Do not tighten the nuts that hold the toilet to the flange too tightly. You may cause the porcelain to crack.

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Things You'll Need

Towel
Adjustable wrench
Rubber or latex gloves
Putty knife
Drill
Tape measure
Old towel or T-shirt
New flange kit
New wax ring (if not provided in the kit)
Bathroom caulk (optional)

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Expert Source

Dave Jones
Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Water Cleanup

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How to Remove & Replace a Leaking Toilet Flange

Replacing a Broken Toilet Flange

Steps

Removing the Toilet

Replacing the Toilet Flange

Reinstalling the Toilet

Expert Q&A

Video

Tips

Warnings

Things You'll Need

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