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Litter box problems with cats are not unusual and can be the result of several issues. If your cat has started to pee on the floor instead of in the litter box, try scooping the litter more often, using a different brand or type of litter or litter box, or moving the litter box to a different location. You can also work on retraining your cat to use the box. If none of these things help, see a veterinarian to figure out if there's an underlying medical problem that's causing your cat to pee on the floor. [1]

Method 1
Method 1 of 3:

Changing Your Cat’s Environment

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  1. Create a daily schedule and scoop all litter boxes at least twice a day. Alternatively, stop and scoop a litter box anytime you happen to walk by one. Sweep up the spilled litter around each box at least once a day. [2]
    • Cats have an incredible sense of smell. The overwhelming scent of urine may be one of the reasons they’re avoiding the litter box.
  2. Empty and scrub each litter box in your home at least once a week. Use hot water and unscented soap. Allow the boxes to air dry or use a towel to dry them if you need them immediately. Fill each box with fresh litter after each wash. [3]
    • You may want to designate a specific cloth or sponge specifically for litter box cleaning and not use it for anything else.
    • Consider having twice as many litter boxes as you use, so you always have a spare set when one set is being washed.
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  3. Cat litter comes in huge varieties nowadays, including clay, newspaper, pine, corn, walnut shells, wheat, silica, and even grass. Each type and brand of litter may feel and smell different to your cat; some they may like and some they may not like. Buy small bags of several types of litter and put out one box of each type. Observe which type your cat prefers and switch to that type permanently for all your litter boxes. [4]
    • Not all types of cat litter are clumping. Read the information on the bag to determine if the litter you want clumps.
    • While useful to you, as the litter scooper, litter box liners or bags are typically not favoured by cats.
    • If you don’t know what litter your cat prefers, try putting out multiple trays with different types of litter to see which one your cat uses the most.
    • Sudden changes between types of litter can confuse your cat, so it may not recognize the tray as the area where they use the bathroom.
  4. Cats are picky about everything, including how much litter is in their box. Typically, cats prefer 1 to 2 in (2.5 to 5.1 cm) of litter in their box. Increase or decrease the amount of litter you’re putting in each box based on your current habits. Make sure there is an even layer of litter in each box as well. [5]
    • Keep in mind that clumping cat litter slowly reduces as you scoop. Therefore, it may be necessary to add more litter to the box during the week, between cleanings.
  5. Just like the litter itself, litter boxes come in a huge variety. Some are covered (with holes on the top or the side), some are tiny, some are large, some have high sides, and others have low sides. Change one or more of your litter boxes to a different type to see if your cat prefers something different. For example, if you currently have litter boxes with high sides, try a couple with lower sides to see if the sides were preventing your cat from using the boxes. [6]
    • Keep in mind that covered litter boxes tend to keep the smell inside. To a cat, the smell might be overwhelming and completely off-putting.
    • Any type of reusable, washable box or bin will work as a litter box. You do not need to only buy boxes or bins marketed as litter boxes.
    • Older cats that have arthritis may have trouble getting into litter boxes that have trays with tall sides. Try using a shallower and larger tray, such as an oil drip pan, so it’s easier for the cat to squat and pee inside of it.
  6. For example, if you have 2 cats, you should have 3 litter boxes. If you have less than the recommended number of boxes, your cats may not be sharing nicely, especially if you’ve put all the boxes in the same location. [7]
    • Avoid putting all your litter boxes in the same place.
    • If you have a multi-level home, put at least one box on each level.
  7. Synthetic cat pheromones come in spray bottles and plug-in diffusers. When used, humans won’t smell anything, but cats will smell a calming and relaxing scent. The spray can be used in specific areas, as needed. Whereas, the diffuser can be plugged into an outlet in a room frequented by your cats. [8]
    • Synthetic pheromones are sold at vet clinics and pet stores. If you’re unsure which one to purchase, as your vet for advice.
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Method 2
Method 2 of 3:

Training or Retraining Your Cat

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  1. Think about what may have happened in your home during the period your cat stopped using their litter box. For example, did you move, did someone move in or out, did you get a new pet or did an existing pet leave, did you renovate or rearrange a room, did you have a baby, or did you change your work hours? Any of these events may have caused your cat to become stressed and anxious, which may have caused them to stop using their litter box. You may need to retrain your cat with the litter box if you determine this is the cause. [9]
    • You may also want to seek the advice of your vet for other ideas on how to help your cat in these situations. For example, your vet may prescribe anti-anxiety medication for your cat.
    • If it is at all possible, avoid sudden changes to major aspects of your household. Cats are creatures of habit and are happier when things stay the same.
    • You can use pheromone diffusers or food supplements to help reduce your cat’s stress and make them feel more relaxed.
  2. Even cats who appear to be getting along may be stressed or anxious about their cat roommates. This stress and anxiety may be what’s causing one or more of your cats to stop using the litter box. Watch each cat as it uses the litter box. Check if they’re being harassed or chased away by another cat. Change the litter box locations if you see this happening. Block off certain areas of your home as safe spots for the harassed cat, where they can go to the litter box without being bothered. [10]
    • Cats in multiple cat households may stop using the litter box because it’s located in a space they believe ‘belongs’ to another cat.
    • Cats in multiple cat households are also more likely to urine mark as a means to identify their territory.
  3. Make sure they’re not located in a room that’s frequently closed off; your cat needs to be able to get to the litter box 24/7. Spread out your litter boxes if you have more than 1 cat, as they may each prefer a different location to do their business. [11]
    • Bathrooms, basements, closets, low traffic hallways, porches, laundry rooms, or mudrooms are all great spots for a litter box, as long as your cat can always get to those locations.
  4. The smell of urine may attract your cat (or another cat) to continue to use the area improperly. Clean the area where they peed with a specialized product made specifically for cleaning cat urine. These types of products contain special enzymes that neutralize the smell of urine (and ammonia). Read the instructions on the bottle for detailed steps on how to use the cleaner properly. [12]
    • Cat urine enzyme-based cleaning products can be found at any pet store or online.
  5. Put your cat in a small room or pen with a litter box, bed, toys, food, and water. The area should be small enough that your cat will have no choice but to pee in the litter box. Only allow it out of the room or pen when you can supervise. If you see your cat heading towards an area where it's peed before, carry your cat and put it in its litter box. You may need to do this for several weeks before your cat is successfully retrained. [13]
    • If your cat does have an accident, clean up the liquid with a paper towel and then put that paper towel in its litter box. This will help it associate urine with its box.
    • Once your cat is using the litter box properly, gradually allow your cat back into the rest of the home, but continue to supervise them as much as possible.
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Method 3
Method 3 of 3:

Seeking Medical Intervention

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  1. Take your cat to the vet as soon as possible after the first few accidents. Unfortunately, one of the most common reasons why a cat will stop using their box is due to a urinary tract infection or bladder stone. Follow your vet’s instructions for treatment. If your vet doesn’t find a medical issue, they will still help you solve the problem by providing potential solutions to try at home. [14]
    • Urination problems due to medical issues cannot be resolved by trying to change your cat’s behaviour or revamping their litter box and/or litter.
    • If you allow a medical issue to persist, your cat may associate their litter box with pain. This may cause them to stop using the litter box altogether, even when their medical issue is cured.
    • Urinating outside of the tray could be a sign your cat feels discomfort or that it needed to empty it’s bladder immediately. Don’t ignore these signs since there could be a more serious problem, such as a urinary blockage.
  2. The sooner a treatment plan is implemented, the sooner your cat will start to feel better and the sooner they’ll return to their normal peeing location. Untreated medical problems may cause your cat to associate the litter box with pain and suffering, even when they’re no longer sick. In such cases, you may need to take the time to retrain your cat to use the litter box. [15]
    • Ask your vet to provide you with a detailed treatment plan and a list of options. You may need to try several options before you find a solution that works for your cat.
  3. Take note of where your cat is peeing outside of their litter box. Urine marking often happens on vertical spaces like walls, chair legs, speakers, or on the side of a couch, rather than on the floor. Observe whether your cat is also peeing in their litter box. Cats who are urine marking only do so with a small amount of urine. They continue to use their litter box for normal elimination needs. [16]
    • Finally, determine if the urine smell outside of the box is stronger than it is inside the box. Cats used a more concentrated version of urine to mark, so it leaves a lasting smell. Provide your vet with this information and work with them to find a solution.
    • Intact cats (those that have not been spayed or neutered) are more likely to urine mark than cats who have been fixed.
  4. Spay or neuter your cat to stop them from urine marking. One of the reasons for urine marking is that your cat is advertising for a mate. An indoor cat may even urine mark inside in an attempt to communicate with cats that are outside. The easiest way to stop a cat who is marking specifically for mating purposes is to have them spayed or neutered. You can take your cat to your regular vet to be spayed or neutered, or you can attend a spay and neuter clinic in your community which may not charge for the operation. [17]
    • Cats can be spayed or neutered as young as a few months old, as long as they are the proper weight and the vet is familiar with pediatric spays and neuters.
    • Most cats adopted from a shelter or humane society will be spayed and neutered before you bring them home.
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      Tips

      • Litter box problems can be caused by one issue or more than one issue. However, if you change too many things at once, you may never know which solution was the one that fixed the problem. Try to make one change at a time until you find the one (or ones) that work.
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      Warnings

      • If your cat is straining to urinate in their litter box or elsewhere, but nothing is coming out, they may have a urinary blockage. Urinary blockages are medical emergencies and you should take your cat to the vet hospital immediately. [18]
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