How to Style Hair With Hot Rollers

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Using hot rollers to style your hair may seem old fashioned, but there's a good reason why this technique has been around for so long. Rollers create natural-looking curls that cascade elegantly to your shoulders if you have long hair, or that create perky curls above your shoulders if your hair is short. Learn how to use them to create classic curls, bouncy waves, and ringlets.

Method 1
Method 1 of 3:

Getting Classic Curls

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  1. Go ahead and plug in the hot rollers so that they're fully heated by the time you're ready to put them in your hair. If this is your first time using your set of rollers, read the manufacturer's instructions to make sure you use the equipment properly.
    • Keep in mind that a hot roller set usually comes with a few different sizes of rollers and you will need to use all of them to cover your head. If you want to use only 1 size of rollers, then you may need to buy multiple mixed sets to have enough.
    • Make sure the rollers are not too hot before applying them.
  2. Start with completely dry hair, since your hair won't hold curls if you use this method with wet hair. Spray your hair all over with hairspray, which will help define your curls as the hot rollers go to work.
    • It is also important for your hair to be dry since wet hair can steam and this may result in a burn on your scalp.
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  3. Use a comb to separate your hair out into 4 even sections. [1] You should have 1 on top of your head, 1 on the back center of your head, and 1 on each side of your head. Use a clip to secure each of these sections until you are ready to put in the hot rollers.
    • If you have very thick hair, then you may need to divide your hair into 6 or even 8 sections for hot rolling.
  4. [2] Starting in the front, lift up a section of hair that is no wider than the roller. If you have long hair, then you may need to grab a smaller section to ensure that the rolled hair will not be too thick on the roller. Wrap the end of it around the first roller, moving up towards the roots. Roll your hair back towards the crown of your head so that the front of your hair pulls away from your forehead and over the roller. [3] Secure the roller in place with a roller pin of the appropriate size. Continue rolling your hair until you've rolled the entire middle section of hair.
    • Roll your hair in different directions if you don't want uniform curls. Roll some sections of hair forward and some sections of hair backward. This will result in curls that look more natural.
    • For small, tight curls, be sure to use the smaller rollers in your set. Use medium rollers for larger classic curls.
    • Use the largest rollers first and then the smaller ones after those are all gone.
  5. You can roll the side sections with the hair curling towards or away from the face, up towards the top of your head, or down towards your shoulder. Start with a small section of 1 of the side sections of hair and wrap it around a roller starting with the ends. Then, pick up another section and repeat.
    • Repeat with the hair on the other side of your head until all of your hair has been rolled.
  6. Use firm-hold hairspray to spray your entire head, making sure to cover every roller. This will ensure that your curls stay intact when you take down the rollers. Keep the rollers in your hair until they are completely cool, about 20 minutes.
  7. Take off the pins and let your curls fall away from the rollers. Use your fingers to separate and fluff up your curls. For added hold, spray your hair once more with hair spray.
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Method 2
Method 2 of 3:

Creating Bouncy Waves

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  1. For loose, bouncy waves, plan on using the biggest rollers you have, but keep in mind that you may need more than 1 set if you want to use only large rollers. Plug in your roller set and let it heat thoroughly while you prep your hair for this rolling technique.
  2. Rub mousse between your palms and smooth it into your hair while it is dry. This will help your hair retain its shape as the hot rollers work.
  3. The method for creating bouncy waves is similar to the method for creating classic curls. Use a comb to separate your hair into 4 sections: you should have a section on the top of your head, a back center section, a left section, and a right section. Secure each of the 4 sections with hair clips. [4]
    • If you have very thick hair, then you may need to divide your hair into more than 4 sections.
  4. Take a piece from the front section of your hair that is no wider than the roller, and place it over a large hot roller. If your hair is long and/or thick, then you might need to use several rollers for each section. Roll the hair back toward your forehead, so that the hair pulls away from your forehead and the curler rests horizontally on the top of your head. Use a roller pin to hold it in place. Continue rolling sections of hair from the top and back sections until you've worked your way down to the nape of your neck.
    • For loose, bouncy waves, roll all of your hair in the same direction.
    • You can also try using different sized rollers in different areas to create waves of different sizes.
    • Divide the back of your head into 2 to 3 sections. Don't put all of it onto 1 roller.
  5. Working from the top of your head, take a piece from 1 of the side sections that is no wider than the roller and roll it with the hot roller. Pin it in place, then continue to the section of hair just below the roller. Keep rolling hair until you've reached the bottom of your hairline. Repeat on the other section of your head. Your hair should now be completely rolled.
  6. Use a gentle hold spray to mist your hair as the rollers set. Let them stay in your hair until they are completely cool, which should take about twenty minutes.
  7. Remove the pins from the rollers and loosen your hair. Use your fingers or a brush to gently brush out the curls into waves. Smooth mousse through your hair to keep your bouncy waves in place all day.
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Method 3
Method 3 of 3:

Forming Ringlets

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  1. For ringlets, you'll need the smallest rollers you can find. If your set comes with only larger rollers, see if you can borrow more small rollers from a friend, or buy an extra package from the store. Plug in the roller set and let it heat while you get your hair ready to make ringlets.
  2. While your hair is dry, spray it all over with a liberal amount of hairspray. This will keep the curls tight as they form over the hot rollers.
  3. Dividing your hair into at least 4 sections will make it easier to create ringlets. Use a comb to divide your hair into a top section, a back center section, and 2 side sections. Create a part on either side of your hair to separate the side sections, and keep them apart using large hair clips. Then, use the comb to divide the middle section into a top and back center section. [5]
    • If your hair is very thick, then you may need to divide it into more than 4 sections.
  4. To create ringlets, roll subsections of each of the top and back sections of your hair up vertically, rather than horizontally. Gather a small section of hair from just above your forehead. The section should be no wider than the roller. Hold the hot roller at the tips of your hair and roll down to the top of your head, so that the roller points from front to back instead of side to side.
    • Repeat with the next section of hair and work your way all the way down to the neck.
    • Create as many vertical rows of rollers as necessary to roll up all of your hair.
  5. Take 1 small piece at a time from 1 section at a time and roll it. Make sure the section is no wider than the roller. Roll your hair in vertical rows extending from the top of your head, behind your ears, and down to your neck. Roll up all of the hair on 1 side, then repeat on the other side. All of your hair should now be rolled up in vertical rows.
  6. Use extra-hold hairspray to spray your hair all over. Keep the rollers in until they are completely cool, about 20 minutes.
  7. Carefully remove the pins that hold the rollers in place and let your curls fall away. As you undo the rollers, you'll see that your hair has curled into tight, shiny ringlets. Simply scrunch some gel or a bit more hairspray into your hair with your fingers. Don't brush your hair, or the ringlets will fall apart.
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Expert Q&A

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  • Question
    How long do you leave hot rollers in your hair?
    Laura Martin
    Licensed Cosmetologist
    Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist based in Milledgeville, Georgia. She has been working as a hair stylist since 2007, and began a career as a cosmetology teacher in 2013. She worked as a teacher at Arrojo Cosmetology School, teaching cosmetology practices, hairstyling, and hair color application. She also brought her cosmetology expertise to her work as a staff writer for fashion blog Style Noted, writing pieces related to hair and fashion. She received an MFA in Creative Writing from Georgia College & State University, where she was also an English Teaching Fellow. Additionally, she received a BA in Creative Writing and Literature from New York University.
    Laura Martin
    Licensed Cosmetologist
    Expert Answer
    You want to leave the rollers in until they have cooled completely. This usually takes 10-20 minutes depending on the length and density of your hair.
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    Not Helpful 2 Helpful 2
  • Question
    What heated rollers are the best?
    Laura Martin
    Licensed Cosmetologist
    Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist based in Milledgeville, Georgia. She has been working as a hair stylist since 2007, and began a career as a cosmetology teacher in 2013. She worked as a teacher at Arrojo Cosmetology School, teaching cosmetology practices, hairstyling, and hair color application. She also brought her cosmetology expertise to her work as a staff writer for fashion blog Style Noted, writing pieces related to hair and fashion. She received an MFA in Creative Writing from Georgia College & State University, where she was also an English Teaching Fellow. Additionally, she received a BA in Creative Writing and Literature from New York University.
    Laura Martin
    Licensed Cosmetologist
    Expert Answer
    I like steam rollers. These are heated one at a time and use both heat and water to set the hair. This makes the curls they create doubly strong.
    Thanks! We're glad this was helpful.
    Thank you for your feedback.
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    Not Helpful 0 Helpful 2
  • Question
    Are hot rollers better than a curling iron?
    Laura Martin
    Licensed Cosmetologist
    Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist based in Milledgeville, Georgia. She has been working as a hair stylist since 2007, and began a career as a cosmetology teacher in 2013. She worked as a teacher at Arrojo Cosmetology School, teaching cosmetology practices, hairstyling, and hair color application. She also brought her cosmetology expertise to her work as a staff writer for fashion blog Style Noted, writing pieces related to hair and fashion. She received an MFA in Creative Writing from Georgia College & State University, where she was also an English Teaching Fellow. Additionally, she received a BA in Creative Writing and Literature from New York University.
    Laura Martin
    Licensed Cosmetologist
    Expert Answer
    Hot rollers create a different type of curl than curling irons. Hot rollers curls are better if you want volume; curling iron curls are softer and more natural-looking.
    Thanks! We're glad this was helpful.
    Thank you for your feedback.
    If wikiHow has helped you, please consider a small contribution to support us in helping more readers like you. We’re committed to providing the world with free how-to resources, and even $1 helps us in our mission. Support wikiHow
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      Things You'll Need

      • Hot rollers with pins
      • Round bristle brush
      • Hair clips

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      Expert Interview

      Thanks for reading our article! If you’d like to learn more about styling hair with hot rollers, check out our in-depth interview with Wyvetta Bowles .

      References

      1. ↑ https://www.allure.com/gallery/best-hair-rollers-for-every-curl-wave
      2. ↑ http://camillestyles.com/beauty-style/pretty-simple-how-to-hot-roll/
      3. ↑ http://www.refinery29.com/hot-rollers/slideshow#slide-3
      4. ↑ https://www.allure.com/gallery/best-hair-rollers-for-every-curl-wave
      5. ↑ https://www.allure.com/gallery/best-hair-rollers-for-every-curl-wave

      About This Article

      Article Summary X

      Hot rollers usually come in a set and just need to be plugged in to be ready to use. There are different sizes of rollers and smaller rollers will create ringlets while larger rollers will create bouncy waves. To get classic curls, first, you’ll want to spray your hair with hair spray to help the curls hold. Then, you’ll need to divide your hair into 4 sections. Starting from the front of your head, lift up a small section of hair no wider than the roller. Wrap the end of your hair around the roller then roll it up towards your roots and secure it with a roller pin. For more natural-looking curls, you should roll some sections of your hair forward and some back. Once you’ve rolled all of your hair, spray it with hairspray again, then let the rollers cool for at least 20 minutes. Finally, remove the rollers and gently use your fingers to separate the curls. To learn how to make waves in your hair with curlers, read on!

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