How to Treat Fish Diseases

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Sometimes fish become victims of disease. Some fish diseases are easy to treat, where others are deadly. Many aquarists have a quarantine tank set up to acclimate new fish in order to quarantine them from the main display tank and prevent potential disease contamination. If fish become ill in the main display tank, they can be removed from the main display tank and put in the quarantine tank, which is then a hospital tank, or a hospital tank can be set up to treat the diseased fish.

Part 1
Part 1 of 3:

Identifying Diseased Fish

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  1. Bacterial infections come with different symptoms that you may be able to identify through observation. These symptoms can include the following [1] :
    • Inactivity
    • Faded color
    • Frayed fins
    • Bloated body
    • Cloudy eyes
    • Abscesses
    • Open sores
    • Red streaks through the fish's body
    • Redness of the skin, fins, or organs
    • Difficulty breathing
    • Bulging eyes
  2. Fungal infections can be associated with other types of illnesses. The symptoms of a fungal infection could include the following [2] :
    • Strange swimming behavior including the tendency to dart around the tank
    • Small collections of whitish material growing on the fish's eyes, skin, or mouth
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  3. If your fish has a parasitic infection, its symptoms will differ from those of bacterial or fungal infections. Some symptoms to watch for include [3] :
    • A lack of appetite
    • A tendency to be inactive
    • A film or unusual mucus on the fish's body
    • Worms or spots that you can see on or in the fish's body
    • Fast breathing
    • Scratching
  4. Some other diseases might be non-infectious, such as tumors, constipation, injuries, or even congenital abnormalities. Some diseases may be viral as well. Most diseases have treatments available, and proper filtration can help prevent recurrence of diseases whether the tank is freshwater or saltwater. [4]
    • If your fish purposely runs into objects in the tank or seems disoriented, it's possible that it's not able to maintain homeostasis and it's natural balance is off. This could be a sign of shock.
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Part 2
Part 2 of 3:

Setting Up a Hospital Tank

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  1. The hospital tank can be an inexpensive aquarium or an older unit not currently in use as a display tank. Do not use substrate (sand or gravel) or live plants. A filtration system that does not use carbon should be used in the hospital tank because carbon may negate some medicines. [5]
    • Artificial plants may be used to comfort diseased fish. Other types of cover where the fish can hide may be comforting as well.
    • The carbonless filter used should also be lower power in order to avoid disturbing the fish too much.
  2. The hospital tank's water must be kept at the appropriate temperature for your fish. Choose a heater that will not vary its temperature too much in order to keep the ailing fish comfortable and safe. Be sure to protect the fish from heater burns as well by blocking the heater from direct contact with the fish. This can be done with any kind of barrier to the heater, such as plastic mesh. [6]
    • Pet stores or aquarium specialty stores can recommend other options for heater barriers.
    • Raising the tank's temperature might prevent parasites from replicating.
  3. An air stone in an aquarium can help replace oxygen in the water. This is particularly useful in a hospital tank because some medicines can reduce the amount of available oxygen in the water. Air stones are available anywhere aquarium supplies are sold.
  4. Some diseases can be inhibited by little or no light, so keeping the aquarium minimally lit and in a dark room can help treat the diseased fish. This depends, of course, on the pathogen, but if your fish's ailment is one that needs light, keeping the aquarium dimly lit and in a dark room may help fight the disease.
    • Check with an aquarium specialist at your pet store, aquarium specialty store, or a veterinarian to see if your fish's ailment can be inhibited via minimal lighting.
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Part 3
Part 3 of 3:

Treating Ailing Fish

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  1. Ensure that the hospital tank's water is as similar to the main display tank's water as possible in both temperature, water source, and regular additives, including dechlorination. Prepare two additional tanks or buckets of water of at least 2.5 gallons (9.5 L) that are also filled with water as close to the same as the main display tank as possible. Use a net to move the fish to the first bucket. [7]
  2. Add 3/8 of a teaspoon of salt per gallon of water to the first bucket every two minutes up to ten minutes. Move the fish to the next bucket of water and wait 15 minutes. After the 15 minutes have passed, add another 3/8 of a teaspoon of salt per gallon of water to the second bucket. Wait another 15 minutes and move the fish to the hospital tank. [8]
  3. Check online to help diagnose diseases. You may also want to secure the help of a veterinarian with fish experience to help diagnose. Once you have determined the type of disease the fish is stricken with, obtain the appropriate medicine. [9] In the hospital tank, administer the medicine. Be sure to follow the instructions for the treatment you are administering.
  4. Keep the fish in the hospital tank for ten days during treatment. Replace 30%-50% of the water in the hospital tank each day to help keep it clean and fresh. Move the fish into a shallow bowl each day and observe—possibly with a magnifying glass—to track the progress of healing and determine at the end of the ten days whether the fish can return to the main display tank.
  5. To prevent the spread of the disease after the fish has been treated, be sure to sanitize all tanks. This can be achieved by the use of dilute hydrochloric acid or potassium permanganate. Both are available at aquarium specialty stores and possibly pet stores that cater to aquarists. Be sure to follow instructions for use in sanitizing fish tanks—let stand in the tank with water for two to three days, then thoroughly clean and sanitize the tank.
    • Refill the tank after sanitization and restart filtration system to get water back to normal for fish.
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Expert Q&A

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  • Question
    How do you get rid of cotton wool in fish?
    Cyriac St.Vil
    Aquarium Expert
    Cyriac St.Vil is an Aquarium Expert and the Director of Learning Through Nature based in Brooklyn, New York. With over 26 years of experience working with aquariums, Cyriac and the Learning Through Nature team have created aquariums in classrooms, lobbies, and dining halls for viewing and educational purposes. He has extensive knowledge of aquarium maintenance and care, making science fun, and building living habitats.
    Cyriac St.Vil
    Aquarium Expert
    Expert Answer
    Use either tetracycline or a treatment of Copper Power Green—these are two of the most potent medications when used for fish, and will usually cure your fish within 1-2 doses. Be sure to remove the carbon or activated charcoal from your filter while using this medication, since they'll remove the medication from the tank. Depending on the condition of the fish, dose it once or twice. After you've finished dosing the medication, do at least a 1/3 water change, replace the water, and then put your activated carbon or charcoal back into your filter to remove the rest of the medication.
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      Thanks for reading our article! If you'd like to learn more about treating fish diseases, check out our in-depth interview with Cyriac St.Vil .

      References

      1. ↑ http://www.fishnet.org/sick-fish-chart.htm
      2. ↑ http://www.fishnet.org/sick-fish-chart.htm
      3. ↑ http://www.fishnet.org/sick-fish-chart.htm
      4. ↑ http://www.fishnet.org/sick-fish-chart.htm
      5. ↑ http://fish.mongabay.com/disease.htm
      6. ↑ http://fish.mongabay.com/disease.htm
      7. ↑ http://fish.mongabay.com/disease.htm
      8. ↑ http://fish.mongabay.com/disease.htm
      9. ↑ https://animal-world.com/aquarium-fish-diseases-and-treatments/#Protozoan Diseases

      About This Article

      Article Summary X

      To treat a fish with a disease, you'll need to set up a separate tank with a filter and heater in order to quarantine it from your other fish. Then, fill two buckets with 2.5 gallons of water each and move your fish to the first bucket. Next, add 1 teaspoon of salt to the first bucket every 2 minutes. After 10 minutes, move the fish to the next bucket and wait 15 minutes before adding 1 teaspoon of salt. Once 15 minutes have passed, transfer the fish to the new tank and administer the appropriate medication according to your vet's instructions. For tips on how to keep the disease from spreading to your other fish, read on!

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      • Dhruv Saxena

        Feb 19, 2017

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