How to Break a Horse

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In general, a horse's loyalty greatly depends on the type of training or breaking that it receives. Horses that are broken to follow their leader out of respect are much more enjoyable than those that follow out of fear. Follow these tips to build a bond of trust with your horse as you break it.

Part 1
Part 1 of 5:

Getting Started

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  1. Having a personal relationship with your horse is imperative in building trust with it, leading to training later on. Spend time with your horse every day, starting with just being near it and grooming it. Grooming helps connect you with the horse and forms a bond between the two of you. Work around your horse in the pasture, giving it time to build confidence in you. Talk to your horse and be a solid, calm leader for it.
    • Horses are prey animals, so they are always on high alert. They are aware of all changes and will be startled by sudden movement. [1]
    • If you have a foal or horse younger than 4 or 5 years old, don't worry about riding and focus on building trust and confidence through simple leading and grooming.
    • You should spend a significant amount of time gaining the horse's trust before starting to train it.
    • Do this even if the horse is already broken, but it is new to you.
  2. Horses are powerful animals that can cause a lot of damage. While training your horse, you want to make sure you are safe. Familiarize yourself with a horse’s field of visions and then stay where your horse can see you most of the time. Horses can’t see directly in front of or directly behind them. If you are going over, right behind, or right in front of it, keep a hand on your horse so it can track you.
    • The best place to stand is on the horse's side, angled towards its head where it can easily see and hear you.
    • Talk to your horse when you are out of its eyesight. This helps your horse know where you are.
    • Don't start off walking into the horse's blind spots, build confidence where it can see you, first.
    • Only kneel or squat by the horse if you are sure it is used to the task you are performing. [2]
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  3. Breaking a new horse is a slow process. You have to make each step habit before moving to the next step. When training, each new concept you introduce needs to build off what you have just taught your horse. Remember, you want the horse to always be sure of the correct response so it will respond confidently. [3]
    • Never give up. Some steps may be easier than others for your horse. Training is a big commitment.
    • End each lesson on a success. Even if it's just a little bit of progress, like the horse letting you get the halter near its face, always end on a good note.
  4. Never scream at the horse, hit it, throw things, or act aggressively. This will scare the horse and break any trust you have built. Always speak quietly and calmly to your horse. [4]
    • If the horse disobeys you, correct it in a calm manner without showing aggression. It is okay to lightly tap the shoulder or buttocks with a rope to correct disrespect, but all training "failures" are nothing but a sign that you have not truly prepared your horse for the task.
    • You may have to give your horse firm reinforcement of tasks if you have lost some control. Do backing up exercises to reassert your dominance without using violent means.
  5. As a prey animal, they are searching for a release of pressure. Taking a few steps back or removing a scary piece of equipment shows the horse it doesn't need to fight to get away. It will respond well even more quickly the next time to obtain its release.
    • Negative reinforcement would be a continuation of pressure or an escalation of pressure. Ex. You try to teach the horse to walk with you on a lead rope. You take a step, but it will not follow. You take another step, but it still does not come. Now you would gently pull on the rope, increasing pressure until it takes a step. Then, you immediately release the pressure. Soon it learns to walk for a little pressure to avoid more pressure and the horse eventually moves when you walk. [5]
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Part 2
Part 2 of 5:

Halter-Breaking the Horse

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  1. The first way to start halter training the horse is to get it used to having your hands near his head, ears, and neck. Do this slowly. Stay within the horse's eyesight so you don't startle it. Reach out slowly. If you reach out too fast, it may misinterpret your action. Continue doing this until you can touch the horse.
    • Make sure to give the horse release when it allows more touch. The horse will know your touch does not hurt and it does not need to shake you off since you will back away on your own.
  2. Start by letting the horse see and smell the halter in your hands. For the first few days, simply allow it to see and smell the halter as you rub it on the horse as you pull it away. Then, start slowly placing the halter over the nose and onto the head. At first, you may want to leave it on without buckling. When the horse gets used to that, then you can buckle the halter behind the ears.
    • This may take multiple attempts. Be patient and calm, trying to make a little bit of progress each day.
    • Try using food to motivate your horse, such as by luring your horse into its muzzle with a carrot.
    • Take the halter off immediately once it is on so it will not get anxious and allow it more easily the next time. Remember, you are teaching it these things are not scary and go away on their own so your horse does not feel the need to fight.
  3. Start by introducing the bridle to the horse along with the halter. Rub the bridle all over the horse's face gently. Try to get the horse to open its mouth for the bit. Be very gentle.
  4. In addition to halter breaking the horse, you will also have to break the horse into using the bit. Slowly introduce the bit into the horses' mouth. At first, only do this for a few minutes. Slowly build up to having the bit in the mouth for longer. [6]
    • Adding a layer of molasses to the bit can help encourage the horse to put it in its mouth and make it more enjoyable.
  5. Once the bit is in the horse's mouth without the horse fighting you, put the ear pieces over the ears. Do not fasten the straps yet.
    • Gradually work your way up to fastening the straps. Remember to let the horse get used to the feel of the bridle on its head and ears.
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Part 3
Part 3 of 5:

Teaching the Horse to Longe/Lunge

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  1. Longing , or training with a rope, lets you lead a horse around an arena as you train it. When longing, make sure to use the largest circle you can. Circles that are too small can hurt the horse's legs, ligaments, and tendons. Make sure your circle has a minimum diameter of 60 feet (18.3 m).
    • As you start training the horse to longe, don't do it longer than 10 minutes in each direction. Build the horse up for longer sessions, because long periods of longeing can put a lot of strain on a horse's body. Longing should take around 15 to 20 minutes total.
    • You may want to get a lunge whip, which is a stiff 6 ft (1.8 m) or longer whip that you can use to guide the horse in the direction you want it to go.
  2. Before attempting to mount the animal, it is important to gain its trust with ground breaking. Attach a lunge line to the horse's halter.
  3. You will pull on his teeth and cause pain. Making the horse's mouth uncomfortable or painful will make the horse fear longeing.
    • Move your body with your horse so that the longe line has a steady contact. The horse will eventually accept this contact and walk in a circle to maintain that contact instead of pushing and pulling away.
  4. Longeing a horse is the process of showing leadership through working them in an arena. Spend time at least once daily longeing your horse. Use your body language to direct and speed them up. Eventually, build up the speed and intensity of longeing, until they can do a full canter, all while listening to your cues.
    • You should never touch your horse while longing; all cues should be given through changes in energy and body position, or with swinging the end of your longe line.
    • Longeing is a trust exercise; every time your horse does as you ask, break eye contact and release the pressure you're applying.
    • Longeing is also a great way to exercise your horse when you cannot ride it.
  5. Teach the horse to properly walk beside you while leading it with a lead rope. As the horse moves in the circle around you, you need to teach it voice commands. Introduce the horse to the words: "halt," "stand," "walk," and "back." Make sure that you train the horse to understand "halt" and "walk" before doing anything else. Then, you can start introducing it to other faster commands, like "trot."
    • Try using body language instead of voice cues. Widening your arm or looking just ahead of the horse can tell them to speed up. [7]
  6. Horses will test you when you are lead training them. They may try to shoulder you out of their space to see who the leader is. You must assert that you are the leader. When the horse moves too close to you, place pressure on the horse's ribs about a foot behind the shoulder. This is where the lead horse in a herd would discipline the horse. The horse will move sideways and give you space.
  7. The horse should learn how to respond to pressure on the halter. Attach the lead rope to the halter. Stand to the near (left) side of the horse, standing parallel to it, looking straight (as it should be). Hold the lead a few inches below the clip. Pull the lead to the right, away from you, and the horse should eventually give in to it and turn its head to the right. Immediately release the pressure.
    • Alternatively, stand on the right side of the horse. Pull the lead rope to the right to apply pressure. The horse should learn how to turn his head towards you from that command.
    • Repeat for turning left, doing the same things as for the right except pulling in the direction that you are.
    • Do the same thing for forward and backward by applying pressure on the halter in the correct direction.
    • The horse will learn to follow the pressure to release the pressure.
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Part 4
Part 4 of 5:

Saddle Breaking a Horse

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  1. A horse must become familiar with the weight and sound of a saddle on its back. Just like with a halter and bit, spend a few days getting the horse used to the sound of the saddle, how it smells, and how it looks.
    • After the horse is used to the sight of it, hold the saddle over the horse's back without touching. [8]
  2. After the horse has gotten used to seeing the saddle, place the saddle pad/blanket on the horse's back. Leave it on for just a few moments. Then, if the horse responds well, take it off and reward your horse. Repeat several times. Do this on both sides so the horse gets used to you doing this from both sides.
    • If the horse becomes very frightened, more than is controllable, quickly remove the saddle pad/blanket and return to a more familiar task like rubbing with the blanket or leading before you try again.
  3. Distract the horse by patting it and be sure to release the pressure quickly. [9] Leave it on for a few minutes, then remove it. Do this from both sides of the horse.
    • Make sure you remove the stirrups and leathers while saddle breaking a horse.
  4. Do this very slowly. Tighten the girth little by little each day, especially if the horse seems skittish. If the horse seems too scared, stop and keep getting it acclimated to the tack.
    • When your horse allows the girth to be tightened all the way, lean gently on the horse's back.
  5. Next, longe with the saddle on and the stirrups down. This helps the horse get used to things by his sides and legs. Also, start placing the leathers back onto the saddle.
    • Do this slowly over the course of 1 to 2 weeks. Only introduce one new element at a time. Let the horse lose his fear of the item before introducing it to something new. [10]
    • Walk the horse around with the stirrups on after it has gotten used to the way they feel. This will help to get the horse used to the feeling of the stirrups bumping against its sides and the feeling of the tack on its back.
  6. When the horse can wear the saddle for longer periods, start longeing around the arena with the saddle in place.
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Part 5
Part 5 of 5:

Training the Horse to Be Mounted

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  1. Until this point, the horse has likely only seen you at or below eye level. Move the horse near a fence post crossing. Climb up on the post and stand at a height so that you are above the horse's head.
  2. Gradually begin leaning on the horse until almost all your weight is on the horse’s back, but without getting all the way into the saddle.
    • When the horse accepts this, release the pressure and stroke its neck.
  3. You should slowly and gently place your left foot in the stirrup and lean your weight into it. Release pressure often until he is not bothered by the action.
    • Build up to swinging your right leg over the horse's back, always releasing pressure until it is comfortable with you sitting on it.
    • Begin walking him slowly, only a few steps, using the verbal cues you use when longing. Do not use the reins yet. Stop the horse with your verbal cues and dismount often.
    • Start picking the reigns up while standing still and drop them to release. Work up to holding the reins as the horse walks.
  4. 4
    Start using your reins. Walk the horse around you circle pen as usual, but begin lifting the reign as you round turns. Try this the other way. If you have done proper longing, it should know how to change directions in the circle. Continue your normal pressure as your horse turns until it faces the middle of the arena. Stop the pressure and pat its neck. Do this until you can turn the horse around and walk the other direction without stopping.
    • Slowly build up the time you are in the saddle over a period of several weeks or months. Do not attempt to increase the speed until your horse is 100% comfortable with you while walking.
    • It may take a full year or longer before you can trot and canter on your horse. Don't rush the process, as it could train your horse to be fearful of you because you are unpredictable or push it for too much
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  • Question
    What should I feed my 12 month old Arab filly and my 8 month old mini pony?
    Ryan Corrigan, LVT, VTS-EVN
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    Ryan Corrigan is a Licensed Veterinary Technician in California. She received her Bachelor of Science in Veterinary Technology from Purdue University in 2010. She is also a Member of the Academy of Equine Veterinary Nursing Technicians since 2011.
    Ryan Corrigan, LVT, VTS-EVN
    Licensed Veterinary Technician
    Expert Answer
    Most adult horses will eat 15 to 20 lbs of roughage (hay) a day so you should start your horses with that. If your horses need more calories due to workload or body conditioning, look into supplementing with a grain or complete feed.
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    What would be some good ideas for a show name for a horse named Shasta?
    Ryan Corrigan, LVT, VTS-EVN
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    Ryan Corrigan is a Licensed Veterinary Technician in California. She received her Bachelor of Science in Veterinary Technology from Purdue University in 2010. She is also a Member of the Academy of Equine Veterinary Nursing Technicians since 2011.
    Ryan Corrigan, LVT, VTS-EVN
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    Expert Answer
    You could look into names pertaining Mt. Shasta in California.
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      Tips

      • Reassure your horse if their ears go back, or if they show signs of fear.
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      • Each horse is different when it comes to the length of breaking session that it can successfully tolerate. Learn your horse's cue for letting you know when it has had enough.
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      • Always carry out warm-up and cool down exercises with your horse before and after breaking sessions.
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      Tips from our Readers

      The advice in this section is based on the lived experiences of wikiHow readers like you. If you have a helpful tip you’d like to share on wikiHow, please submit it in the field below.
      • Start slow. Don't start working them hard right away. I'm training a 3 year old for roping right now, and I want to start slow by showing her ropes without scaring her.
      • Make sure the horse gets used to you mounting. Do this by putting your foot in the stirrup and jumping up and down as if you were mounting.
      • Remember to keep your heels down and your toes up when you ride a horse. This will help you keep your balance.
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      Warnings

      • Be on your toes and watch body language. If the horse is pinning its ears or thrashing its front legs without rearing, calm the horse down. Or give it a break, maybe it's had enough and is getting irritated, panicked, or confused. Remember it takes time, not force.
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      • A newborn should be left alone with the mother for the first 3-4 days. She needs time to bond with it as a Mom and teach it to follow her. No human contact is needed during this time except to be sure the baby is breathing, has stood within 6 hours, and is drinking milk within 12 hours. Mom and Baby should be given access to pasture soon after the birth so Mama can graze to keep her strength up and teach the baby to follow before encountering other herd members. Don't worry, she can handle her child and will introduce it to others within 3-6 days. What a special moment it is when a mare brings her foal for you to meet because she is proud and wishes to share that with you!
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      • Be careful around horses with their ears pinned. It's one thing for the horse to have its ears simply turned back, which means it's listening to what's behind it; it's another thing to have them pinned. A horse pinning its ears against its head is frustrated and ready to bite or scare someone off - either you or another horse.
        Thanks
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      • Be familiar with herd dynamics. The golden rule is "Winner stays, Loser moves." The lower horse will submit to higher herd members by approaching with care and moving out of their way. A higher member expects this submission from lower horses. People often end up hurt because they do not know the signs. The horse will have pinned the ears, swished the tail, swung its mouth to them, turned its back on them, and even walked right through them in hopes of compliance. In their mind, they asked five times and now they have to tell! If they don't, herd members will think they are weak. That is when people get nipped or kicked, just like any young horse who thinks he is bigger and badder than his father or aunts. Children are especially prone to this because they often back down when the horse walks up, then run away or ignore the horse. The horse sees a person who said they were a lower herd member, but won't stay with the herd or follow directions. That is when it corrects the child, but no one knows why because they do not understand the language. Be aware of the message you are sending at all times.
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      • Also remember that horses speak in body language. Know an irritated tail flick from chasing a fly and an angry stomp from a hungry one!
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      • Horses take cues from your emotions and body language. If you are tense and anxious, the horse will be, too. This is especially true if you are the firmly established leader. After all, if the leader is scared, why shouldn't he be, too?
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      • Biologically, no horse can be ridden before the age of 3. To do so would strain their muscles and spine. Doing so too often or with too much weight can cause permanent muscle complications and deformed bones. It is far safer to begin grooming and halter training at age 1, leading and longing at 2, tack training at 3, and riding at 3 and a half or 4. There is no danger of physical damage, provides plenty of time for fun tricks and bonding, allows the foal to master their limbs and role in the herd, and provides a rock- solid foundation for later learning.
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      • Foals are not ready to begin training with any equipment besides a brush and comb before 1 year. They must learn manners, pressure and release, and communication from their herd before humans can safely try anything besides brushing, petting, and feeding treats.
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      References

      1. ↑ http://www.how-to-train-a-horse.org/
      2. ↑ https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/virtual-pet-behaviorist/horse-behavior/training-your-horse
      3. ↑ http://www.how-to-train-a-horse.org/
      4. ↑ https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/virtual-pet-behaviorist/horse-behavior/training-your-horse
      5. ↑ https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/virtual-pet-behaviorist/horse-behavior/training-your-horse
      6. ↑ http://www.horses-and-horse-information.com/articles/horse-training-young.shtml
      7. ↑ http://www.equiworld.net/uk/training/horse/breaking.htm
      8. ↑ http://www.horses-and-horse-information.com/articles/horse-training-young.shtml
      9. ↑ http://www.horses-and-horse-information.com/articles/horse-training-young.shtml
      1. ↑ http://www.horses-and-horse-information.com/articles/horse-training-young.shtml

      About This Article

      Article Summary X

      To saddle break a horse, start by letting your horse see and smell the saddle so it can get used to it. Next, place the saddle pad on your horse’s back for a few moments at a time, doing this from both sides of the horse. After it’s comfortable with the pad, remove the stirrups and leathers from the saddle, distract the horse by patting it, and place the saddle on the horse for a few minutes. Continue to practice this from each side of the horse. Then, tighten the girth little by little each day, and introduce the stirrups and leathers one at a time. For more tips, like how to build trust with your horse, read on!

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