How to Determine if Silk is Genuine or Synthetic

Determining whether silk is real or fake has become trickier because of how sophisticated synthetic fibers are, but it's not impossible! The easiest way to tell the difference is to check the label, but of course that's not always possible. One of the most accurate is the burn test, but it’s also possible to test silk using a ring, your sense of touch, and chemicals like bleach. Plus, we spoke with professional tailor Shaelynn Haning to learn more about how to determine if silk is real.

How to Use the Silk Burn Test: A Quick Guide

Clip a small piece of the silk. Hold it with pliers or tweezers and burn with a lighter or candle. Real silk smells like burnt hair, burns only when the fire is applied, and leaves a brittle ash. Synthetic silk smells like plastic and leaves a melted bead.

Section 1 of 6:

Performing a Silk Burn Test

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Clip off a few threads from your silk and burn them in a small flame. Natural fabrics like wool and silk burn in a different way than synthetics. Because of this, natural fibers are much better distinguished by burning them, says Haning. Take a few threads from the material or snip a small sliver from a hemmed edge. Hold it to a small flame with pliers or tweezers to avoid burning your skin.
- Genuine silk smells like burnt hair when it smolders and burns, says Haning.
- The flame is invisible and it will stop burning as soon as the flame is removed.
- It produces ash that’s black, crispy, and brittle. It turns to powder when twisted in fingers.
- Burning synthetic silk produces a visible flame without ash and the smell of plastic.
- “Poly or synthetic fibers usually have a plastic or petroleum base…so they're going to melt,” advises Haning.

Section 2 of 6:

Testing Silk with a Ring

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Pull a silk scarf through a ring. This test works best with lighter-weight silk scarves. Genuine silk of lower ply can be easily threaded and pulled through a ring because silk is naturally flexible and smooth. Artificial silks made of synthetic fibers like polyester scrunch up and are difficult or impossible to pull through the ring. ^{[1]
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- This method is less effective with heavier silks and larger pieces of fabric or finished garments.

Section 3 of 6:

Using the Touch Test

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Rub your hand over silk to test for warmth. This is a quick spot test you can do before buying anything made from silk. Rub the silk with your hands. If you feel warmth, it's real. With artificial or synthetic silk, it is impossible to experience warmth on rubbing. ^{[2]
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- This method is not as accurate as the burn test. “They are getting very, very good at creating new synthetic poly blends…You would have to be very, very good to distinguish it,” cautions Haning.
- Silk is also soft and smooth to the touch and feels lighter than synthetic fabrics of the same weight.

Section 4 of 6:

Testing Silk with Chemicals

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Check if the fabric dissolves in bleach to determine if it’s real silk. Real silk dissolves in bleach, while fake silk does not. Test it by pouring just enough 100% bleach to cover the piece of fabric into a small plastic cup. Place the fabric in the bleach and allow it to sit for 5-10 minutes. ^{[3]
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- Genuine silk will dissolve in 100% bleach, but polyester and other synthetics will be unchanged.
- Another chemical test is to mix 4 tsp (16 g) of copper sulphate, 1 ¼ tsp (8 g) of glycerine, 1 tbsp (6 g) of lye (sodium hydroxide), and 10 tbsp (148 mL) of water. The mixture dissolves real silk, but not synthetic. ^{[4]
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- Be very careful handling lye and copper sulphate and wear protective clothing including gloves and eye covering.
- Both are dangerous substances that cause severe burns and can irritate or damage your eyes. ^{[5]
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  National Pesticide Information Center
  Organization run by Oregon State University providing objective, science-based information about pests and pesticides
  Go to source}

Section 5 of 6:

Real Silk vs. Synthetic Silk

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Real silk is breathable, durable, and hypoallergenic. It has a smooth texture, distinctive luster, and is ideal to wear in all temperatures. The luster means the fabric’s color appears to change as the angle of the light changes. There are also minor imperfections and variations in the weave that give the fabric a natural beauty. ^{[6]
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- Genuine silk is significantly costlier than the synthetic silk, so a low price is a good indication of authenticity.
- Real silk is harder to care for and often requires dry cleaning.
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Artificial silk isn’t as durable, breathable, or hypoallergenic as real silk. However, it’s affordable, widely available, and easy to clean. Synthetic and semi-synthetic fabrics can be made to look like more expensive fabrics, but at a lower price. This makes them ideal for special occasion apparel that might be prohibitively expensive for a garment that may only be worn once. ^{[7]
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- While polyester allergies are rare, they are often treated with finishes and dyes that more commonly cause allergic reactions. ^{[8]
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  DermNet NZ
  Online clinical resource website written and run by dermatologists providing evidence-based information about dermatology and skin health
  Go to source}
- Artificial silks are also machine washable and tend to have a more flawless finish.
- They lack the beautiful, unique lustre of real silk.

Section 6 of 6:

Types of Silk

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Real silk is made by using threads from silkworm cocoons. Silkworm larvae spin a cocoon made of silk fiber. Silk makers unwind the cocoons and spin several of the fibers into a silk thread that is then used to make the fabric. ^{[9]
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Research source} There are 4 main types of silk produced by different silkworms.
- Eri silk: Cocoons are harvested after the moth leaves them so they aren’t killed during production. This makes Eri silk popular with vegans. It creates a thick, textured fabric used for shawls, scarves, and knitting.
- Muga silk: This is classified as a wild silk because the cocoons are collected after the moth emerges. Its fabric is also slubbed and thick, and used to produce sarees and yarn. ^{[10]
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- Mulberry silk: Manufacturers breed Bombyx mori silkworms and feed them a mulberry leaf diet to produce this silk. The fibers are very fine and even, resulting in a smooth, delicate, and durable fiber that’s used in a wide variety of fabrics. ^{[11]
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- Tussar (or Tasar) silk: Cocoons are collected in the wild either before or after the moth has emerged. This silk creates a textured fabric that has an airy weight and homespun look. ^{[12]
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Manufacturers use processing methods to create different types of real silk. Silk is extremely versatile and can be woven into a wide range of textures, finishes, and weights. The processing determines the final characteristics of the silk fabric. Here are a few of the most popular types of silk fabrics:
- Charmeuse: This is a lustrous, lightweight fabric that has a glossy front and a matte back. It feels luxurious on the skin and is often used in bedding, lingerie, sleepwear, and evening gowns.
- Dupioni: This silk has a crisp and irregular slubbed appearance, making it perfect for structured garments like bridal gowns and tailored suits as well as elegant throw pillows. ^{[13]
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- Chiffon: A sheer, lightweight silk, chiffon has an airy feel and graceful movement. It’s commonly used to make scarves and flowy dresses.
- Organza: Organza is lightweight, sheer, and crisp. It’s often used to make bridal gowns and evening wear that require more structure. Due to its strength, it’s also used as a base for beadwork.
- Shantung: This densely woven silk fabric has a coarse texture and medium to heavy weight. It’s often used for tailored garments, like suits and evening jackets.
- Taffeta: This densely woven silk has a smooth, crisp texture that feels almost papery. It’s ideal for bridal and evening gowns that need lightweight structure for puffed sleeves or gathered skirts.
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Artificial silks are often made of 3 types of fabrics. People have been attempting to mass produce an artificial silk since the late 1800s. ^{[14]
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Research source} These fabrics are either made from semi-synthetic or synthetic materials and tend to be less expensive than genuine silk.
- Acetate: This semi-synthetic fabric is made from wood pulp or cotton cellulose. It has very good drape and high luster, making it a good choice for ties, scarves, dresses, and upholstery. ^{[15]
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- Rayon (viscose): Also made from wood pulp cellulose, rayon is another semi-synthetic fabric that can have similar properties to silk, cotton, and wool. It can be used to make nearly any type of clothing. ^{[16]
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- Polyester: Polyester is a synthetic material made from a chemical reaction between petroleum, coal, water, and air. It makes an extremely durable fabric that resists wrinkles, dries quickly, and doesn’t shrink. It’s used to make a wide variety of clothing. ^{[17]
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Community Q&A

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Question

I received a large swath of fabric, but I have no idea what it's made of or what to do with it. Where can I take it for evaluation?

Community Answer

I would suggest taking it to a tailor or cloth expert. They will tell you the exact material(s) and give you some suggestions on what to do with it.

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Warnings

Use a sink, have water nearby, or go outside for safety when performing the burn test.

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How to Determine if Silk is Genuine or Synthetic

How to Use the Silk Burn Test: A Quick Guide

Steps

Performing a Silk Burn Test

Testing Silk with a Ring

Using the Touch Test

Testing Silk with Chemicals

Real Silk vs. Synthetic Silk

Types of Silk

Community Q&A

Video

Tips

Warnings

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Expert Interview

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