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For minor ditches or trenches, you can grab a shovel and start digging. Excavating a deep trench for sanitary sewer installations or other projects, however, requires special consideration. Plan the project in advance and learn how to complete each phase safely and successfully.

Part 1
Part 1 of 2:

Planning the Excavation

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  1. Before you begin any digging project, call a utility location service. This will locate underground gas, electric, water, and communications pipes and cables in the area, to protect you from injury or liability in the event they are damaged. [1]
    • In the US, by law, you must call Digline before beginning any digging project. Call 811 to contact a local call center. The service is completely free to use.
  2. Take your time in the planning phase to find a layout that meets your needs, avoids utility lines, and minimizes damage to valuable property. With careful planning, the materials you purchase should be sufficient to complete the trench, and you won't have to change your plan after you start digging. [2]
    • Trees, shrubs and other plants may suffer injury or die if their roots are damaged in excavation. Driveways, sidewalks, and structures can collapse if they are undermined.
    • Small plants, even turf grasses, can be removed and stored for replanting with proper care.
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  3. The trench's depth requirements (for example, the required depth of a utility line) is a factor in choosing excavation equipment and other materials.
    • Some plumbing systems are gravity operated, and require a slope so the waste or water will flow unaided to the discharge location. In this situation, you may find the trench will be deeper on one end than the other.
  4. Sandy soils, loose stony soils, and wet, mucky material will make excavating a straight, deep ditch difficult and dangerous. In these scenarios, you may have to plan additional measures to complete your project successfully: [3]
    • Shoring: This process uses a support structure for your ditch sides so they do not cave in and injure anyone, or undo the digging you have done before the project is complete. For example, a small excavation could use sheets of plywood supported by posts. Large excavations could use steel trench boxes or sheet piling. Anything deeper than 3 feet (0.91 m) should be shored up. Never enter a trench deeper than your waist if it is not shored up.
    • De-watering: This removes the excess water from the soil to help stabilize it while working. This can be accomplished either with a well point system, or a sock pipe and mud-hog type diaphragm pump to remove the water as it seeps into the excavation.
    • Benching the excavation: If you are digging in loose soil, a deep vertical trench wall is at risk of collapse. Benching involves digging the trench in steps or tiers instead, so the banks do not have to support more material than they are capable of. These benches are usually at intervals 2.5–3 feet (0.76–0.91 m) deep and twice as wide. They do take quite a bit of sidewall digging, which can require extensive area to complete. Keep in mind that it can still collapse the deeper the trench goes.
  5. Shovels, pickaxes, and other hand tools will suffice for minor excavations, but renting a mini excavator can save a lot of work on large jobs. Backhoes and even trackhoes may be needed if the project requires a very deep and/or long trench.
    • Unless you are already experienced with these types of equipment, it may be cheaper and safer in the long run to hire a professional excavator.
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Part 2
Part 2 of 2:

Digging the Trench and Checking Depth

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  1. Excavate 10–20 centimeter (3.9–7.9 in) of soil, depending on the depth of the topsoil layer. Store the topsoil away from other spoil material to avoid contamination. Ensure that the topsoil heap does not exceed 1–1.5 meter (3.3–4.9 ft) in height to avoid compaction. For the same reason, either demarcate the topsoil heap or locate it away from frequent foot and vehicle traffic.
    • If the topsoil is going to be stored for prolonged periods of time, over-seed with non-invasive grass species to reduce erosion, or cover it with a heavy tarp or plastic sheet.
    • You may be charged fines if heavy soil or muddy water runs off your work site. Installing erosion control wattles or rolls can contain the water and prevent fines. These can be purchased at landscape and\or construction supply outlets.
  2. Line your workers or equipment up with the ditch line, and start to dig. Be careful to observe soil conditions so that the trench embankments do not yield, allowing them to cave in.
  3. If the trench needs to be "benched" (excavated in steps), dig to the depth of the first bench. Otherwise, dig the first section to the full depth of the trench.
    • If you need to bench, make subsequent entrenchments to the depth of each bench prior to digging deeper, so the banks of each bench will remain stable throughout the process.
  4. Throw the spoil (the removed soil) far enough that it will not encumber you while working in and around the trench. This will also prevent the removed material from creating an overburdening of the trench's banks or sides, which would increase the risk of collapse. [4]
  5. Check the depth with a laser level or builder's level where the grade is critical to ensure the finished trench will not require adjustments.
    • It is very difficult to 'walk' a piece of equipment back down an excavated trench. The heavy weight of the tools or machinery can increase the risk of collapsing trench walls. If you are operating equipment on your own, always keep it on undisturbed solid ground for as much of the process as possible.
  6. Once the entire trench has been excavated, recheck the depth throughout its length. Check the embankments for stability, and do any smoothing or finished grading of the trench bottom necessary to install the material the trench was dug for.
  7. For example, you may be removing an obsolete utility line, installing a new one, or installing a drainage system or sanitary sewer.
  8. If you have access to one, a gasoline operated plate tamp will enable you to pack the soil as it is replaced in the trench. For deep trenches, backfilling in lifts (layers) of about 8–10 inches (200–250 mm) and compacting the material as it is placed will reduce the amount of settling that will occur after the project is completed.
  9. Roll out a heavy geotextile barrier over the soil first to prevent topsoil from mixing with gravel in the trench. Then replace the topsoil in the trench. This will ensure fertile soil and easy re-vegetation without having to resort to costly fertilizers. [5]
  10. Attend to surface conditions after connecting any utilities you have installed.
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Expert Q&A

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  • Question
    What is the maximum depth of the trench needed before battering is required?
    Anthony "TC" Williams
    Experienced Landscaper
    Anthony "TC" Williams is a Professional Landscaper in Idaho. He is the President and Founder of Aqua Conservation Landscape & Irrigation, an Idaho Registered Landscape Business Entity. With over 21 years of landscaping experience, TC has worked on projects such as the Idaho Botanical Garden in Boise, Idaho. He is a Idaho Registered Contractor and a previously Licensed Irrigator in the State of Texas.
    Experienced Landscaper
    Expert Answer
    Each region varies, but for the most part anything well over three feet should be done. Remember, even if only knee deep, collapsing soil could knock a person down and cover them quickly. They possibly may not be able to dig themselves out before suffocating.
  • Question
    How deep does a ditch have to be before I have to barricade the ditch off?
    Anthony "TC" Williams
    Experienced Landscaper
    Anthony "TC" Williams is a Professional Landscaper in Idaho. He is the President and Founder of Aqua Conservation Landscape & Irrigation, an Idaho Registered Landscape Business Entity. With over 21 years of landscaping experience, TC has worked on projects such as the Idaho Botanical Garden in Boise, Idaho. He is a Idaho Registered Contractor and a previously Licensed Irrigator in the State of Texas.
    Experienced Landscaper
    Expert Answer
    Any ditch, trench or hole that could cause a person to even trip and fall should be plainly marked, especially if it is left open more than a normal work period or overnight. People are curious and kinda dumb when it comes to wanting to go look and see 'what' is down there.
  • Question
    What is the minimum distance traffic should be from the edge of a trench?
    Andrew Tintin Roy
    Community Answer
    A good rule of thumb is to keep any traffic at least the distance away from the edge that the trench is deep, so if you have a one-meter trench, then keep traffic at least one meter away.
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      Tips

      • Keep hydrated, and in extreme heat or cold, protected from the weather during the work.
      • Have all materials needed to complete your project on hand before beginning.
      • 811 is a nationwide toll free call that will connect you with a local call center that will notify most companies that bury pipes or wires. The companies then mark where their stuff is buried so you can avoid it. The call and the locating is free to the excavator. Some utilities only mark on public ROW and you need to allow at least 2 full business days for the locates to be done, but it is safer than digging blindly.
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      Warnings

      • Do not operate heavy equipment near the sides of a trench.
      • Protect the trench with fencing, flagging, or other means to prevent someone from accidentally falling into it.
      • Do not allow anyone into a trench that could cave in or collapse.
      • Ensure that any trenches dug close to existing buildings do not undermine their foundations.
      • Provide a safe means for entering and exiting the trench. This may mean using a ladder or sloping bank for this purpose.
      • Do not do any excavating without having underground utilities located prior to beginning.
      • If you are trenching near within close proximity of a railroad or historic landmark, Environmental Information Regulations must be submitted with permit.
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      Things You'll Need

      • Tools or equipment for digging.
      • Tools for laying out the trench, such as measuring tape, hammer, wooden stakes, or flags.
      • A builder's level or laser level for determining the elevation of the trench.

      About This Article

      Article Summary X

      Excavating a small trench is relatively easy and only requires a shovel and pickaxe. However, bigger excavations require more equipment, so it may be best to call in professionals. Before you excavate a trench, you’ll need to call a utility location service to make sure you don’t run into any pipes or underground electric lines. Then, you'll want to rent a mini-excavator, a plate tamp operator, and a backhoe if your hole is going to be very deep. You’ll need to remove the topsoil layer and start digging. Once your trench is complete, you'll need to backfill the hole, then replace the topsoil so plants can grow on top.  To determine what type of soil you’re digging in, read more from our Landscaping co-author!

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      Reader Success Stories

      • Shane Sanders

        Jun 15, 2016

        "This is all good information on the warning article. The rebar with tape keeping people out is a good idea, but ..." more
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