Gorgeous and heavenly-scented, who wouldn’t want a Plumeria of their own? Plumeria is a beautiful tropical flowering plant that comes in a variety of different colors and can be kept indoors or outdoors if the conditions are right. In this article, we’ll teach you all about how best to harvest, plant, and propagate your very own plumeria from cuttings at home. Read on for bountiful blossoms!
Things You Should Know
- Harvest a 12-inch (30 cm) cutting from a brown or dark green plumeria branch, and strip the leaves off.
- Dry your cutting in a shady, humid area for 1-2 weeks before planting to ensure it callouses over and dries out.
- Plant your cutting in a 1 gallon (3.8 l) pot filled with 2 parts perlite and 1 part fast-draining potting soil .
Steps
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Use thick, healthy cuttings that are least 12 inches (30 cm) or longer. To take a cutting , use a pair of pruning shears to cut off a thick, healthy-looking branch from a mature plumeria plant. Target brown or darker green branches, as these colors indicate that the branches are mature and suitable for cutting. If you're making the cuts yourself rather than purchasing them online or in-store, it’s best to take the 12-inch (30 cm) cuttings in the early spring. [1] X Research source
- Clean your garden shears with rubbing alcohol so you don’t spread bacteria or disease to your plumeria cuttings.
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Cut the flowers and leaves off the branch using pruning shears . Existing flowers and leaves will compete with new root growth and inhibit the growth of your cutting. To prevent this, use your sterilized pruning shears to cut off any leaves or flowers from your cutting at a 45-degree, downward angle. [2] X Research source
- Check the cut you made at the end of the branch. If it’s jagged, clean it up by re-clipping the end at a downward, 45-degree angle using pruning shears.
- Be sure to wear gardening gloves , as the plumeria has a sticky sap that can get on your hands and clothing.
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Dry out the cuttings in a shady, humid area for 1-2 weeks. It’s necessary to dry out your cuttings before you plant the plumeria. Let your cuttings sit for 1-2 weeks in a shady, humid area to allow the freshly cut end to callous over and dry out. [3] X Trustworthy Source Missouri Botanical Garden Oldest botanical garden in the U.S. and center for botanical research and science education Go to source
- If your plumeria cutting doesn't callous over, it won't root, making the drying-out period an essential step.
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Store the cuttings in a cool, dry area until you’re ready to plant them. Once the plumeria has calloused and dried, the cuttings are ready for planting—hurray! If you plan to store the cuttings before planting them, wrap and secure the cut end of the cutting with plastic wrap and a rubber band. [4] X Trustworthy Source Royal Horticultural Society Leading gardening charity in the U.K. providing resources for identifying, growing and caring for flowers and other plants Go to source
- Store dried cuttings for up to 2-3 months, if necessary.
- Discard any cuttings that show signs of disease or mold (spotting, a fuzzy texture, yellowed leaves.)
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Select a 1 gallon (3.8 l) or larger pot for each cutting. Your pot size will determine how large your plumeria can grow, so opt for a bigger pot if you’re aiming for bountiful blooms! Ensure your pot of choice has drainage holes on the bottom so water doesn’t pool and rot your precious cutting. [5] X Research source
- Each plumeria cutting will need a separate pot.
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Fill a pot with 2 parts perlite and 1 part fast-draining potting soil . Thoroughly mix the perlite and potting soil so they're well incorporated. Fill the pot 1 inch (2.5 cm) to the brim to give the cutting enough medium to grow in and to prevent overflow when you water. [6] X Research source
- Fast-draining potting mix will prevent mold and fungus from forming on your cutting—yes, please!
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Pour water into the soil to dampen it. To ensure that your clipping doesn’t develop root rot later down the line, pour a bit of water into the pot to check that it drains properly. The water you poured into the pot should drain from its drainage holes on the bottom. [7] X Research source
- Add 1 part vermiculite to the potting mixture if your soil isn’t draining properly.
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Dip the cutting tip into root growth hormone , if desired. While this isn’t necessary, root growth hormone will help initial roots to grow from your cutting. Dip the cut end of the cutting into a cup of water first, then dip 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) of the cutting into the root growth hormone powder. [8] X Research source
- Dipping the cutting in water first will help the growth powder stick to your cutting.
- Make your own rooting powder using honey, or aloe!
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Push the cutting 3–4 inches (7.6–10.2 cm) into the soil in the pot. Push the cut end of the cutting into the soil in the center of the pot. Add more potting mix to the top of the soil to help hold the cutting in place, then pack the soil around the cutting to ensure it doesn't move or shift as the roots grow. [9] X Research source
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Add stakes to support large cuttings if necessary. If your cutting is too large or is falling over, use a stake to keep it straight in the pot. To do this, plant a stake deep into the soil in the pot, then attach the stake to the cutting with wire or string. This will help hold the cutting in place as the roots form. [10] X Research source
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Put the plumeria in a warm place and wait 4-8 weeks for it to take root. You’ll know it’s growing when you start to see new buds forming on the top of the cutting. During this stage, plumerias require very little water and should only be watered about once every 10 days. [11] X Research source
- Plumeria should be kept in temperatures above 60 °F (16 °C).
- Place the pot on a seedling mat to increase soil temperature and encourage the roots to grow.
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Place the cutting in a spot that gets 6-8 hours of sunlight daily. If your plumeria doesn’t get enough sunlight, flower buds will not form. A happy plumeria is a well-sunned plumeria! [12] X Research source
- Place the pot in direct sunlight if you plan on growing the plant outside.
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Water your plumeria with at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water per week. If it rains regularly where you live and you’re keeping the plumeria outside, you won’t need to water it. However, if your area is suffering from a drought or the plumeria is indoors, thoroughly soak the top of the soil and let the water drain out of the bottom of the pot once a week. [13] X Research source
- Don’t overwater your plumeria, as this will kill it. If the soil 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep feels moist, it doesn’t need water.
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Bring your plumeria inside if it drops below 50 °F (10 °C). Plumeria doesn’t fare well in the cold. While plumerias have no problem growing in room temperature conditions, frost and cold can kill the plant or cause it to go dormant. To prevent this, bring your plant inside when it becomes too cold. [14] X Expert Source Monique Capanelli
Plant Specialist Expert Interview. 22 September 2020.- If you transplanted your plumeria cutting into the ground, it will go through a normal 3-month dormancy phase when the temperature gets cold. [15] X Trustworthy Source Penn State Extension Educational organization dedicated to delivering science-based information to people, businesses, and communities Go to source
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Spray fertilizer on the plant every 1-3 weeks during the growing season. Thoroughly spray down the leaves and stem of your plumeria with a liquid fertilizer spray throughout the spring and summer months to boost blooms. With all your hard work and TLC, your plumeria could grow up to 10-12 feet (3-3.6 meters)! [16] X Research source
- Mix or dilute the fertilizer according to the instructions on the label, if necessary.
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Prune your plumeria to shape it or to remove dead branches. Start by sterilizing your pruning shears with alcohol. Then, cut the unruly or diseased branch off 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the plant's main stem at a 45-degree angle. Pruning your plumeria helps prevent disease and stops branches from growing in an undesired direction. [17] X Research source
- The best time to prune plumeria is in early spring.
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Spray an infested plant with light horticultural oil. If your plumeria is suffering from mites or flies, a light horticultural oil spray (1% solution) can keep them at bay. Simply spray the leaves and main stem with the horticultural oil, and you’re good to go! [18] X Research source
Expert Q&A
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QuestionWhen is the best time to do cuttings from Plumeria?Lauren Kurtz is a Naturalist and Horticultural Specialist. Lauren has worked for Aurora, Colorado managing the Water-Wise Garden at Aurora Municipal Center for the Water Conservation Department. She earned a BA in Environmental and Sustainability Studies from Western Michigan University in 2014.The best time to take cuttings from your plumeria is during the late spring or early summer.
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QuestionI rooted my plumeria cutting, after it sprouted leaves I planted it several weeks ago. There are no leaves; however the cutting is still firm. How long should it take before producing leaves?Community AnswerPlumeria are sensitive to the number of hours of sunlight each day. You can "force" them with a grow light in northern latitudes but it will start growing when it gets about 10 - 12 hours of light per day. It will be fine while there are long summer days, but may lose its leaves when the days get too short. Don't panic it will grow again the next summer. It is not uncommon to have to wait two years for flowers in northern latitudes.
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QuestionWhat if my plumeria starts getting soft in the middle of the stem?Community AnswerThis probably means that your cutting has started to rot from the inside. Some other visual signs of rotting are wrinkled grey sections that are easy to press and mold.
Video
Tips
Things You’ll Need
- Garden shears
- Rubbing Alcohol
- Gardening gloves
- Plastic wrap (optional)
- Large pot
- Perlite
- Potting soil
- Root growth hormone (optional)
- Vermiculite (optional)
- Horticultural oil (optional)
- Liquid spray fertilizer
References
- ↑ https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/plumeria/
- ↑ https://theplumeriasociety.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/Plumeria-Cuttings.pdf
- ↑ https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/gardening-help-faqs/question/944/how-do-i-care-for-my-plumeria
- ↑ https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/94126/plumeria-rubra/details
- ↑ https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/ornamentals/plumeria/
- ↑ https://animals.sandiegozoo.org/plants/plumeria-frangipani
- ↑ https://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/oc/freepubs/pdf/OF-24.pdf
- ↑ https://noidafloriculturesociety.in/img/plumerias.pdf
- ↑ https://www.torontomastergardeners.ca/askagardener/plumeria-care/
- ↑ https://theplumeriasociety.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/Plumeria-Cuttings.pdf
- ↑ https://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/oc/freepubs/pdf/GrowingPlantsHawaiianLei_Perennials_reduced.pdf
- ↑ https://hortipm.tamu.edu/county/smith/tips/trees/plumeria12.html
- ↑ https://garden.org/plants/group/plumerias/
- ↑ Monique Capanelli. Plant Specialist. Expert Interview. 22 September 2020.
- ↑ https://extension.psu.edu/programs/master-gardener/counties/adams/news/plumaria
- ↑ https://www.gardenia.net/guide/learn-how-to-grow-and-care-plumeria
- ↑ https://livingcolorgardencenter.net/gardening/how-to-care-for-plumeria/
- ↑ https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74141.html
About This Article
To grow plumeria from a cutting, start by cutting the flowers and leaves off of a thick, healthy cutting that's at least 12 inches long. Then, dry the cutting in a warm, shady spot for 1-2 weeks. Once the cutting has dried out, fill a 1-gallon pot with 2 parts perlite and 1 part fast-draining potting soil. Next, water the soil and push the cut end of the cutting 3-4 inches into the soil. If the cutting won't stay up on its own, insert a stake into the soil to support it. Finally, place the pot in a warm, sunny area and wait 4-8 weeks for the roots to establish. To learn how to care for your plumeria, scroll down!
Reader Success Stories
- "I decided to learn to grow plumeria early last summer and have three plants that grew from cuttings. Over the winter, I placed them along the south side of my house against the wall, and they were quite warm. (Inland from San Diego where we had one of the wettest winters on record, but no frost.) Two of them, both noids, have leafed out nicely. The third, squishy at soil line. After listening to this article, I will recut, dry and root it. It will be a good learning experience." ..." more