Q&A for How to Apply Shellac

1-2 hours. My method includes grinding the shellac flakes into a fine powder with a coffee grinder. This allows more of the flake's surface area to come into contact with the alcohol at once and dissolve quicker. Room Temperatures of 75 F-90 F will speed up this process.

You should not mix shellac and wax as it will not harden completely. After the shellac has cured completely, a coat of wax protectant can be applied.

Shellac normally dries clear. However, some shellacs will dry with an amber, brown, or red tint. It should be specified on the container what tint the shellac will dry.

If you're referring to a smooth, piano-like finish, it will take many, many coats of 2-3 lb cut. Like more than 10, and there will be sanding. It will also depend on the wood, red oak without pores filled will take more than hard maple.

No, do not sand the final coat.

Use denatured alcohol. Alcohol is the solvent for shellac and should be used to thin it. If you are using a colored shellac, i.e. deep amber or orange, don't thin too much or you'll dilute the color.

If it's real teal oil (which it almost certainly isn't), you could leave it on for many weeks. If it's a product called teak oil that's actually varnish, leave it until you can't smell it anymore when you hold your nose right up against it.

French polish is a good option, adding new shellac to the original finish.

No, shellac is your finish. You won't find a better clear coat. Some maintenance may be involved after the coating has been exposed to years of use.

Put some ethanol on a rag and reflow the shellac that's already on where the fingerprint is. Then add a bit of shellac to your rag and wipe the shellac over the fingerprint and polish the fingerprint out. Add more ethanol/shellac as necessary to make the fingerprint disappear.

Yes, after the recommended dry time of the stain you're using. Most minwax stains recommend 8 hours.

Yes. Shellac adheres to just about anything, and any finish will stick to it. No other primer will be needed. Shellac is used as a primer because no matter what has been used on the wood before, shellac will seal it in, and all lacquers and varnishes will adhere to it. Zinsser primer is just tinted shellac. One caveat though, if you are going to be applying a penetrating oil finish, then any primer/sealer will prevent the final finish from penetrating the wood.

One trick from French polishing is to make a pad from a wad of cotton wrapped in linen so that you have a smooth surface on the bottom. Soak this in shellac (or just denatured alcohol) and use broad strokes from end to end on your surface. Be careful not to over saturate the pad. The shellac/alcohol will remelt the existing surface and cause it to dry smooth.

You could, but there is no good reason to do this. The main purpose of shellac is to enhance natural wood grain without looking like a plastic cover coat. If the wood is already painted, you might as well use polyurethane, which is more durable.