Q&A for How to Build Concrete Steps

Yes. Put in both rebars and wire mesh. This will help bond the concrete together to prevent and cracking or settling. For instance, after you pour the gravel for the foundation, you might pour 5 inches of concrete with the rebar and wire mesh inside.

Yes, always seal the concrete to preserve the color. Sealing the concrete helps make it water-resistant, so if it rains, the water will just slide off your steps. It will also help protect the concrete from stains.

It depends on the weather in your area. Check the temperature before you pour the concrete. If it's going to be very hot, pour the concrete in the morning, and wet the concrete throughout the day. If it dries too fast, it won't be as strong.

Get an industrial buffer with sanding pads made for concrete, you can get it as smooth as glass if you want to.

In almost all cases, you should not fasten your added steps to the foundation of your home/structure with rebar. This can void your home/structure warranty or insurance, and is a complex process that involves things like post-tension slab considerations, cracking due to inexpert drilling, cracking due to poorly sealed/maintained drilling, etc.

If you have a chip in an existing stair that you are lengthening or widening, whether or not the chip will be repaired in your second pour of cement depends on the shape of the chip. Chips with gaps facing the area you plan on adding your second pour of cement will likely be filled by cement when you pour, but using two different pours can result in other issues, In most cases you can guarantee a smooth, even repair that is free of complications by applying a concrete patch material with a caulking gun before you add to your step.

Maximum is generally 180mm for most country conventions, minimum depends on the number of consecutive steps.

You can: Add dirt and gravel beforehand; Stake pieces of wood where you don't want the concrete to leak out; Let it leak out and cover with some dirt and grass later; Break away the extra concrete with a sledgehammer after it cures.

Portland cement and a trowel will do the job. Simply mix in a little thinner and some modeling clay. Then, spread it into the holes. Use the trowel to smooth and level the surface. Portland cement tends to cure darker than most concrete, but this can be taken care of by applying a very thin layer over the entire surface to be patched.

Most lumber yards have rebar. Lowe's & other building material stores would also have it.

Pouring concrete on top of the steps totally changes the final height at the top. Do you have a way to anchor the sides of the steps? Another possibility is to mortar the bricks like a wall. This would probably involve removing a brick to allow for the width of the mortar joint. You could stain the mortar so there is less of a color difference.

They should be poured at the same time. This keeps the stairs looking nicer and helps retain consistent coloring.

You will not need concrete footings, however you will need proper substrate and prep work prior to pouring. You can use footings, of course, but they are not necessary.

You can add cement on each side, however you will certainly notice the addition. Other options include removing the steps and starting over, or pouring your new cement to widen each side and then a skim coat over the whole thing. You would probably want to seal the skim coat for longevity. Or, you could add cement to each side, use a patch to fill any remaining gaps, then use concrete paint to cover the entire project.