Q&A for How to Build a Wooden Gate

You have a couple of options here. Your first option is to purchase a 'Hasp Lock' at a hardware store. Attach the base plate with screws and then attach the Hasp plate. Put the padlock on through the Hasp. Another option is to get a length of chain padlock that will go through links, loop the chain around the post and gate, put the padlock loop through the links of the chain and lock.

If by anchor you mean you have put hinges on and the gate seems weak, then you can add cross bracing to the gate for extra sturdiness.

2 feet deep for a small gate, 3 feet for a larger gate. A large gate would be anything over 3 feet in width.

2x4s are used for gates less than 4 feet wide. It is important that the center diagonal piece supports the side where the latch is all the way to the lower inside hinge. Gravity will try and compress the gate, but the diagonal will prevent this from happening.

Measure the width and height of the opening. Then, measure the size of the posts and remove this number from the gap for the 'door' part of the gate and add up how much wood you will need to fill the gap.

Instead of doing a criss-cross in the middle of the frame (step 4), just do one angled piece from the bottom of the hung side to the top corner on the latch side. Lay out pickets on the frame to check the spacing, and mark when satisfied. Then attach.

Use a measuring tape and leave room for the hinges.

Redwood is great for outdoor projects and is insect resistant, but treated pine is a cheaper option.

It depends. A square frame will require 45 degree miters, but a rectangular frame will differ according to its aspect ratio. Make a drawing to scale and measure the angle you'll need with a protractor.

As thick as you want. The thicker, the heavier, but most likely it would be stronger and sturdier as well. (It also depends on what the gate is protecting.)

Some DIY stores offer a cutting service if you are buying the wood there. Check their wood sizes, and make a list of the packs you need to buy and the sizes you need them cut down to. Also, using a hand saw to make the gate is perfectly achievable. Practice sawing on a rough piece of wood to help get your cut edges even. As a minimum for making the gate itself, you will need a hand saw, a tape measure, a square edge, and a pencil.

This question addresses a major flaw in this document. I would use 2x4s for all cross braces, and install the orthogonal cross piece first. Then, cut four diagonal pieces to fit as needed.

It depends on the width, material and weight. At the very least, it will need to be framed on four sides with a cross brace from the bottom of the hung side to the top of the latch side.

Drill a small hole through the gate right above the latch. Put the string through the hole, and tie it to the latch. On the outside of the gate, tie a knot in the string, so it can't go through the hole. Pull the string to open the gate.

It's always wise to use thoroughly dry wood for any project. However, if you screw or bolt the boards together, they won't twist or curl much even if they're not seasoned first.

The main purpose of wheels would be to prevent sagging over time. However, if you brace the posts and the gates properly, sagging shouldn't be a problem.

Yes, you can do that, but then you'll have a hole in your house. Some people would rather sink a post hole right next to their wall (though then they run the risk of hitting the foundation footing). Your way is easier.

Half the hinge mounts on the gate, the other half on the post. As pictured above, there need not be any gap when the gate is closed. Tension is inevitable at any load-bearing joint.

Typically a half-inch or slightly less.

Yes, if you can maintain a permanent clearance of 9½-feet-radius in front of the gate.

They make gate latches that you can open from both sides or go old school with the pull string. You could also do a door knob or dead bolt, maybe salvage an old security screen door and cut out the knob section and the part of the frame it latches to. Also, have swing gate openers - these are pretty cool and not too expensive.

There should be a gap. If it is more than necessary, then just add a thin strip of wood or space the pickets to hide it.

Measure the distance between the 2 posts, subtract the distance needed between the post and gate for hinges, typically 1/4 inch on each side. Then subtract 1/2 inch -3/4 inch depending on hardware for the latch in the middle, so 3 gaps in total, both sides and the middle. If you want the gate to be the same size on each side, then divide by 2 and that is how long each gate will need to be. Keep in mind if each side is larger then a normal gate and you'll need a stronger post.

It depends on whether you have surface mounted hinges or jamb hinges (like inside your home). Typically, a gate one inch less than the opening will suffice.