Q&A for How to Prune a Tree

Wait until early spring. Start by pruning the most crowded branches and branches that weigh down because of their length and weight. Try to trim the outside line of the tree into a pyramid-like shape if it is alone. In a hedge, you can trim it more severely. Be careful not to cut the top off more than 1/8-1/10 of its total height.

Take extra care and watch it over time. Trim back damaged branches, because they could be getting in the way of further growth. Fertilizer can't hurt, just be sure not to purchase one bad for insects, because the bugs might be helpful. A storm is natural, so nature will take its course.

On the plant's growing season, pinch the shoots to encourage thicker growth.

Trim the very top which should make the tree sprout branches on the sides. Tree should be no more than 3 yrs. old.

Unless you have training or experience and proper equipment, it would be best to call a tree service.

Most walnut trees establish their shape early and do not need to be pruned regularly after their first few years of growth. The best time to prune a young walnut is in the early spring, before the growing season begins. However, pruning sometimes may be necessary at other times of year due to storm damage or other extenuating circumstances.

In most cases, no. Trees produce sap that acts as a sealant when a branch is removed. It will then begin the slow process of fully sealing the wound by growing over it. Some people seal fruit trees after they have been pruned, as they are generally very slow growing, so it takes them longer to heal. As a general rule of thumb, you should not seal the cut, but just make sure the final cut is a "collar cut", which will greatly increase the speed of healing.

Yes, but get a tree pruning book or otherwise do some research to be sure the limbs are properly cut. Limbs need to be cut so that the tree can heal without leaving unsightly dead stubs.

Yes. You can prune it down to within 6 inches of ground; however, it isn't the best practice.

Topping a tree is never a good idea. The best option is to plant the type of tree you want.

No, ficus trees should not be planted near a sidewalk, driveway, or foundation, as their roots are notoriously disruptive.

If your tree is currently fruiting, I would not cut too much off it. Save the heavier pruning for later in the season when it has stopped bearing fruit. Pruning a tree is very beneficial, but if done at the wrong time it can stress the tree. However, without knowing the type, size, or age of the tree, or how much you are looking to take off, it is hard to give specifics.

Trees with twin trunks will push each other apart as they grow. Same with branches that grow in a tight V. It would be a good idea to remove one. Cut it off close to where the two meet. Don't try and do it all in one cut. Make as many cuts as needed. Keep things in manageable pieces. And always make a shallow cut (about 1/5 of the way through) on the bottom of the branch first. Then cut from the top to finish the cut. The most you want to cut off on the final cut, is about one foot. Leave only about 1/2" - 1" stub when you're done, if possible. Be aware that the cut will be an easy access point for insects. A little latex paint on the cut will help prevent that.

After the grass is verticut, it should be mowed short. You can use the clippings from that cut as a top dressing. If using a thatch attachment on a mower. Then the clippings might be a bit too course. You might not like the visual of it. If you use mulch. Use the finest grinding you can get. Wait until the highs are in the low 90's. Water three times a day, enough to prevent drying out, until the sprouts are about 1/2 an inch tall. Then once a day, in the morning, for a week. After that what ever the weather dictates.

Yes. Different trees need different care. Deciduous trees are best trimmed when dormant. Tropicals can be trimmed most any time. Except for the hottest part of the summer. The list goes on and on.

If the tree is truly leaning, it probably has a root issue and might need to be removed. If it's only growing to one side, say towards the sun, then trim off the offensive branches as outlined in other postings. Keep in mind to cut small pieces at a time. That will reduce the damage to the tree it's growing into.

No problem. They are tolerant of trimming for the most part. You can remove about a third of the plant at a time - maximum. Don't trim in the hottest part of summer. And have at least a month before a chance of frost. Cut the offending branches back to a branch that points the desired direction of growth. Otherwise, cut it back to about 1" above a leaf pointing in the desired direction. A new shoot should sprout from that leaf's base.

A little latex paint on the open cut can help prevent insects from entering.

Yew trees tend to be hearty trees and tolerate trimming most any time you would want to be outside. The best time would be in the spring or after the summer heat has passed.

You can remove dead branches at any time. If it blooms for a season, it can usually get a minor trimming in bloom. But heavy trimming should wait until after the bloom is finished. If it only blooms for a short time. Wait until it's done blooming. Note that any branch that is in danger of breaking should be removed immediately.